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Re-furbishing Highland Park Polisher/Grinder A-52

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Author Topic: Re-furbishing Highland Park Polisher/Grinder A-52  (Read 347 times)
« on: March 19, 2012, 09:25:38 am »


I am new to this forum (first post) and have a question to what I hope is a simple answer.
I have been successful in removing my Highland Park arbor from the cabinet and want to replace the 2 grinding wheels (worn out).
There is a great example (with pictures) of removing the wheels for a B-52 model, but not a lot of explaination on what I need to do when I try to remove the bearing housing from the arbor.
I loosened the set screw and next I believe I need to use a wooden board and some light hammering to push the bearings off of the arbor end.
But I wanted to make sure before I forced the bearings and make them non-usable.  Or if there is something I need to do to free up the bearing assembly.

Thanks,  Joe Waldron
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« Reply #1 on: March 19, 2012, 06:20:16 pm »

Pretty good at mechanical issues. But need a picture to be sure of advise offered.    help
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« Reply #2 on: March 19, 2012, 06:36:48 pm »

Wire brush all the gray dust and caked on debris away. With a strip of sand paper sand the shaft smooth. Spray a lot of WD-40 on the shaft and at the junction with the bearings. Go sit down in your recliner with a beer, relax, have supper, get a good night's sleep and respray the shaft and bearings in the morning. Gently pound the bearings with a wood piece and hammer. They should move by this process.
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« Reply #3 on: March 20, 2012, 08:33:12 am »

If they are the original bearings there should be one set screw and one dimple.  After removing the set screw use a screw driver or punch in the dimple and tap with hammer opposite the direction of rotation.  The lock collar should spin off fairly easily.  I use sand paper I buy in rolls for plumbers.  Sand all exposed shaft areas until shiny smooth.  Use a good penetrating oil on the bearings.  If you plan on reusing best to let the oil do it's work.  Gentle tapping won't hurt the bearings.  Also use a steel file and file smooth the set screw marks in the shaft.  If the bearings have any play or feel or sound rough at all replace them when you reassemble.
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« Reply #4 on: March 20, 2012, 05:38:21 pm »

Good advise both times.  WD40 is not my first choice.  Penetrating oils have been around since liquid wrench first came out somewhere in the first half of the last century.  I still like it best, but there are a lot more choices today.  Just give it time to work.  I like to use a brass hammer, but any semi hard faced hammer should work.  They do the same job as the wood, but with a lot less fuss.  Be sure to clean up the shaft before reassembly and lubricate with light oil like 3 in 1 or sewing machine oil.  Just for the record, WD40 is not a true oil, but it does do a credible job of lubricating on short term basis.  It will evaporate in a few weeks.
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« Reply #5 on: March 20, 2012, 07:23:19 pm »

WD40 will work pretty well.  I took apart a 35 year old Lortone LU6X and an equally old HP saw last week.  I always have WD40 and didn't have Liquid Wrench.  For really stuck/rusty parts you can't beat a good penetrating oil and time. 
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