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April 23, 2019, 02:52:29 pm
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dished - NO BENT - the blade, pics added

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Author Topic: dished - NO BENT - the blade, pics added  (Read 1187 times)
skystone
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« Reply #15 on: February 27, 2011, 03:28:24 pm »

I've experienced this too. Not to that degree. It usually just overload the motor due to friction & it kicks the breaker. In stone some times there is a harder place in it. Like an agate pocket in a softer jasper. That can force the blade over. Or the rock can slip or rotate in the vice part way through the cut. I run into uneven cuts all the time. I use a fairly thin (32 thou) so it's rather flexable & susseptable to hardness variations. When puting a stone in the vice. Before stating your cut. Be SURE the stone is secure & can't move side to side or up & down.
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hulagrub
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« Reply #16 on: February 27, 2011, 03:37:35 pm »

Daniel, was just saying, I have had a squirting issue. My answer was the wedges. Kind of puts the rock, in a three point stance. Get around the oldtimers and they have wood wedges up the wazoo, by their saws. Something truely bad happened with that blade, whatever the cause.
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« Reply #17 on: February 27, 2011, 04:29:38 pm »

I like to run mine at the upper end of the scale, maybe a little over. 303P calls for an additional 25% increase of the whole scale.
Looks like that rock may have tried to squirt out to the right to me, doesn't take much to ding a blade when it moves sideways.

If you run your belt a little looser, then when that happens it will just stop the blade and the belt, the pulley on the motor will continue to turn and smoke the belt and possibly the motor pulley (depends on how long before you get it shut off), but belts are cheaper than motors or blades. You also know something is wrong cause it will start smoking like crazy!

I would take that blade off and ping it back into shape. You got nothing to lose but a blade you are gonna trash anyways.

Good luck with it...............Tony
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deb193
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« Reply #18 on: February 27, 2011, 04:37:01 pm »

seeng as how the vise was pushing the blade to the right, yall may be right.

I normally use the wood blocks and wedges with a vise that clamps front and back, but I get the point. I would love to have a vise that grips in all directions - like a ring with screws at 9-12-3 o'clock.

anyway, the alignment seems good and the carriage seems tight. I think I got too over confidant in clamping htings up and not expecting trouble. This was after a run of 5-6 largish rocks that began with Sooke Rhodonite, then Pilbara Jasper, then Bulico, fossil coral, kabamba, mexican poppy rhyolite, and then the lizzard stone. I know I was getting a little careless/hasty.

Glad it was just a cheap $60 blade. I intend to be much more careful with the MK 301, cause it cost me $150.
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slabbercabber
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« Reply #19 on: February 27, 2011, 05:14:22 pm »



slabbercabber, why the cheapest? or have you tried the better higher priced with not so good results?


I use cheap blades because they tend to be more aggressive and waste less material.  Since I use a pressure feed intead of gear driven that speeds things up.

Motor protection by amperage is called "motor starter"  Sized properly, these systems will give absolute protection against motor overload.  You will need to do some research to learn how to size it, but it isn't terribly difficult.  All industrial applications are protected in this manner as are all of mine.
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« Reply #20 on: February 27, 2011, 08:00:34 pm »


deb, your vice feed is independant of the blade turning,right? Your main switch turns on both the blade motor and the feed motor. If so you need a switch like slabbercabber says.AllenBradley has a on/off switch with heaters, I call them heaters, if the motor draws too many amps over  period of time the heating up of these heaters turns the switch off.
At times when I have had some large hard rocks to slab I have found the saw switch tripped. I now have trained myself to check the switch toggle position before I raise the top. I have this fear of not checking, raise the top and the saw starts up, bad news. I really don't think it would but funnier things have happened before.
Getting back to the blade being bent it looks like the blade had a bind, the belt melted and the feed and blade motors continued to run pushing the rock onto the blade.
You need the special no/off switch cause if the belt is too loose it will happen again.

JMHO

Don

 

 
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« Reply #21 on: February 27, 2011, 09:50:36 pm »

Don, you may be right. I got to it pretty quick after I heard a squeel, but I was in the next room. It is possible after the blade stopped, that the autofeed still turning caused the bend, and not the bend happening first.

there is a pull chain to a switch that turns offboth the blade and the feed, and there is another switch that turns off just the feed.

But the motor I had backin PA on my Beacon Star would shut off when the blade bound up. If I did not get to it quick enough to turn it off myself, it just would shut off. I would then turn off the saw and pull the rock off the blade, and it would still not turn on. After a few minutes the motor cooled down, and there would be an audible click, and then if I turned it on it would spin. I understood this was thermal protection built into the motor.

This Dayton motor does not seem to have that. I will research "motor start" and "heaters" and see what I come up with.
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« Reply #22 on: February 27, 2011, 10:20:55 pm »

Don, you may be right. I got to it pretty quick after I heard a squeel, but I was in the next room. It is possible after the blade stopped, that the autofeed still turning caused the bend, and not the bend happening first.

there is a pull chain to a switch that turns offboth the blade and the feed, and there is another switch that turns off just the feed.

But the motor I had backin PA on my Beacon Star would shut off when the blade bound up. If I did not get to it quick enough to turn it off myself, it just would shut off. I would then turn off the saw and pull the rock off the blade, and it would still not turn on. After a few minutes the motor cooled down, and there would be an audible click, and then if I turned it on it would spin. I understood this was thermal protection built into the motor.

This Dayton motor does not seem to have that. I will research "motor start" and "heaters" and see what I come up with.

My 1/2 hp motor doesn't have a thermal protection  either. When the switch cuts off because of the overheating/current draw I have to reset the toggle on the switch to get the saw operational again.

Don
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skystone
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« Reply #23 on: February 28, 2011, 11:19:17 am »

Heat build up is how a breaker switch works. You could use one of the power strips or a power cord with the breaker built right in. They work for either fault current (good for being arround wet environments & hands) or heat for overload on the motor. I run my 10" combo unit through one. As far as banging out a bent blade. I've never had any luck at all trying that. The blade "oil cans" bend one side & the other side pops out of alignment. Last one I bent was only 2 days after buying it new. I was hand holding a chunk that was too big for the vise & it shifted in my hands (rolled) & tweeked the blade. Oh XW$@&*^T LOL There goes another $50.
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« Reply #24 on: March 02, 2011, 10:57:55 am »

I rounded up a switch I purchased at a estate auction, he was a electrican, years ago.

This switch has the thermal protection (heater coil) in it and is good for 3/4hp @ at 115volts or 1hp @ 120 volts.
The heater coil could be changed to accommodate a smaller hp motor I'm sure.

Don

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skystone
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« Reply #25 on: March 02, 2011, 11:51:20 am »

The cheapest easiest way is to get a power strip with the circuit breaker built right in. It'll cut out if it get too hot from over draw. I run my 10" combo unit throuh one & it works just fine. If the blade binds a little & creats too much friction & overloads the motor. It pops off. I shut off the switch unbind the blade. Wait a few min. to let it cool down reset & off & running again. Cheap, easy & efficient. You can get extention cords with one built in too.
Mike
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« Reply #26 on: March 02, 2011, 02:21:32 pm »

this sounds promising. sounds better than paying $$$ for a new thermally protected Daton motor form Covinginton.

I have read some guys on a woodworkign forum be very negative abotu these poewr strips "starving" the motor, but they were talkign abotu a 2HP motor.

I guess I want to know more about how much amps my motor draws when starting, running, and bogging down, and whether different brands of power strip circuit breakers have different sensitivities.

I think I will get a modestly priced amp meter that clamps around the wire for convenient metering.

thinking to change the oil tonight, got the new pulley, have the belt, have the blade. Maybe get it all running again tomorrow noght or Friday night.
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« Reply #27 on: March 02, 2011, 05:13:20 pm »

deb,
If you or some one has to purchase a new motor they might want to check out the amp draw of different motors and compare 110/220. An electric motor usually requires 2 to 3 times as many amps starting as when running. This will vary according to load.
A 1/2 hp 110/115 volts requires twice as many amps to run continuesly as a 1/2 hp 220/230 motor. This is the reason industry uses higher voltage plus 3 phase.
One needs to consider what will it take to get  220 volts  to the motor too.

Don
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slabbercabber
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« Reply #28 on: March 02, 2011, 06:07:54 pm »

Sorry, I should have given more information about motor starters.  The electric strips are simply another form of breaker like tho ones that protect your house circuits only less reliable.   They are not sized to protect any particular load, just against short circuits.  Motor starters allow the motor to draw high amperage for a short time while it starts.  If the motor continues to draw high current for more than a second or two then it will trip.  It will also trip if the motor draws very high current as in a short, only much more quickly, saving your wiring.  Motor starters using heaters are going away because electronic starters have become much less expensive.  Also electronic starters can be adjusted to motor size by changing a setting.  Changing heaters is expensive. 
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deb193
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« Reply #29 on: March 02, 2011, 07:18:42 pm »

do you have a source for the electronic starters?
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- Daniel

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