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Homemade 10 wheel arbor for less than $150

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Author Topic: Homemade 10 wheel arbor for less than $150  (Read 15535 times)
zarguy
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« on: January 14, 2011, 06:38:03 pm »

I built a new cabbing machine from a shaft that a rockhound in Oregon sent me. Thanks, Mike! I've been using it for several months & am finally posting some pix.

I started with a platform built of plywood & 2 x 4s. It sits on a wheeled cart. I mounted a 1/3 HP, 1725 RPM motor that I picked up at a pawn shop for $20. The risers are blocks of hardwood - Maple.


I made trays & hoods out of Sintra - a 1/4" PVC sheet used to print & mount signs. I got a bunch of reject signs from a local sign shop. They were happy for me to take them off their hands. I cut out the pieces on a table saw & glued them together with medium thick superglue. I did a test of 3 different glues & this one worked best. So well, that I couldn't break the bond without breaking the plastic. The trays are held down by 8 screws into the threaded inserts - the kind that have 4 prongs to bite into the wood so I didn't have to deal with a bolt and a nut under the platform. Sorry, no picture of them.


Mike made me a 46" x 1" shaft with the ends drilled & tapped. This length with this many wheels gives me 2" of space between each wheel. Eat your heart out Genie owners! I still manage to nick my knuckles, though. I may cut down the shaft by 2" so nothing protrudes out the ends of the hoods. I'll have to re-tap the right hand threads. I bought cheap Chinese diamond hard wheels & Nova type soft wheels. The spacers between wheels are lengths of PVC tubing. It was hard to determine the sizes of the spacers since the inner hub of the wheels isn't as wide as the outside of the wheel & that dimension differs between hard & soft wheels & between brands. I assembled the wheels, spacers, bearings, & pulley in order & tightened down the bolts on each end, then I tightened the set screws on the bearings.

I bought 2 pillow block bearings. 4 bolts through the bearings & riser blocks into threaded inserts holds it down.


Here it is with hoods installed. They just sit inside the trays. I glued cotton belt material from a thrift store in front of each wheel under the front lip to spread the water evenly over each wheel. It also helps cut down on stray spray. The material has to drag on the wheel, or you still get water spraying you. I added extra belt to the sides of each hood to keep water from spraying from the side of the end wheels. Instead of a complex system of tubes & shutoff valves for each wheel, I just have a single hose running from my water supply (a 5 gallon bucket suspended higher than the machine). I move the tubing from one wheel to the next. It takes about 2 seconds. It's so much easier than shutting off a valve & turning on another one. This was in the garage & I was going to hook the water supply up to the hot water under my sink, but I just moved this indoors. It's so cold in the garage that I wasn't doing any cabbing on cold days.


Here's an oblique view of the machine. I've added foam pipe insulation as padding to the front edges of the trays, but I forgot them when I took these pictures.


Here's a closeup.


I'm running 3 hard wheels - 80, 220, & 360, 6 soft wheels - 300, 600, 1200, 3000, 8000, 14000 & a hard felt wheel on the left end for polishing. Sometimes 14000 is good enough & I don't need to do any further polishing. The Chinese 280 soft wheel only lasted about 6 weeks before it couldn't even remove the scratches from the 360. I refurbished it with 300 diamond powder. I highly recommend refurbing your own wheels. It'll probably last a year or more. & I do a lot of cabs! There are several threads here about refurbishing your Nova wheels. Here's the original - http://gemstone.smfforfree4.com/index.php/topic,4184.0.html

Excluding the wheels, I have only about $150 into this machine. It's a sweet machine. I don't have to switch belts or have more than one machine. I went with 6" wheels because I like to do tight inside curves on some of my cabs. Otherwise, I'd have made an 8" machine. I could adapt it to 8" with taller risers & new hoods.

Right now I'm using a desk lamp on top of the center hood, but  bought some 12V LED strip lights  will see how those work in illuminating the cab.

If you have any Qs, post them here or PM me.

Lynn
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Rockoteer
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« Reply #1 on: January 14, 2011, 07:00:15 pm »


Lynn..gotta tell you this is the coolest, best design grinder, polisher, cabber I have seen to date.  Bar none just the best ..... wow.... double wow.   ura

TOG
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« Reply #2 on: January 14, 2011, 08:28:16 pm »

Ditto and a triple wow!
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Taogem
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« Reply #3 on: January 14, 2011, 08:55:25 pm »

That is just way too cool !!!

The two pillow blocks were enough and no vibrations ??

Really a super great setup !!  yes
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Raqy
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« Reply #4 on: January 14, 2011, 09:08:03 pm »

Wow!  Thats a great set up.
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thewrightthings
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« Reply #5 on: January 14, 2011, 09:38:30 pm »

That is sooooo amazing.  What a creative approach to cabbing and saving $$$$$.  Keep giving us feedback, please, on how it works and if you'd change anything.
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christopherl1234
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« Reply #6 on: January 14, 2011, 09:59:16 pm »


what does it take to get one of those shafts?
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« Reply #7 on: January 14, 2011, 11:15:41 pm »

 Nice, only changes I would recommend would to add 1 more pillow block on each end and upgrade to a more powerful motor with a step pulley. Great work, must be nice to have all those grits right before you on one machine.
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Patrick
zarguy
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« Reply #8 on: January 14, 2011, 11:19:15 pm »

Christopher,

Look up spicerm (Mike Spicer) on RTH. He made a 34" shaft with left hand threads on the left end & a bolt to match, and right hand threads on the right with a matching bolt. Shipped to from Oregon to Utah in a PVC tube it cost $68 total. Check a local bearing store or machinist friend who can cut & tap a steel shaft. Perhaps it will be cheaper since shipping was probably expensive. The left hand tap & bolt are costly though.

Lynn
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zarguy
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« Reply #9 on: January 14, 2011, 11:23:09 pm »

Patrick,

I thought about having additional bearings on the ends, but I think it's fine without them. I've had stepped pulleys on other machines & never used anything but 1:1 to get the shaft spinning at the motor's native speed. By having a single speed pulley on the shaft, I save space. If I do need to slow it down, I can put a smaller pulley on the motor. If the motor burns out, it's no great loss. I have a 1/2 HP Baldor waiting to take its place.

Lynn
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« Reply #10 on: January 15, 2011, 02:29:23 pm »

Thanks Lynn
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Geomaniac
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« Reply #11 on: January 15, 2011, 07:20:16 pm »

Wow that thing is awesome!...its just what I was dreaming of building, but couldnt find the shaft. So  yes16I just bought a used genie...:>)
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« Reply #12 on: January 15, 2011, 07:50:55 pm »


Nice Lynn, I like your style.......and the pvc wheel spacers.

 I'm like you with the water hose as I just move mine from slot to slot without having to adjust the water. Much easyier and cheaper.

Correct me if I'm wrong but you said Mike had drilled and tapped the shaft ends?????

That would be easier than having to either chase the treads on a lathe or using a hand die for theads. Just drill and tap 2 holes. Super!!!!!!

The major cost with a shaft that long and 1" OD would be the shipping and metal cost. Machining time shouldn't be that expensive.

Don

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MrsWTownsend
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« Reply #13 on: January 16, 2011, 03:34:00 pm »

That's AWESOME!  Thanks for sharing that!
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« Reply #14 on: January 16, 2011, 06:53:26 pm »

Lynn..

Would you have any interest in building another one ? Would be willing to pay for materials, your time and shipping.

I don't have the means to fabricate something like this. Even if I did, don't believe I could make it turn out as nice !

I really do like having all those wheels on one unit.  yes 

Thought it might not hurt to ask ? Of course I completely understand if you have no interest. The only real motivation would be getting paid for your time....dunno
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