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March 24, 2019, 05:50:05 pm
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Highland Park Grinder Wheel Replacent

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Author Topic: Highland Park Grinder Wheel Replacent  (Read 2330 times)
Kerry
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« on: April 28, 2010, 09:43:38 am »

Hi I've got a highland Park lapidary grinder and I want to change the wheels to diamond ones. But I can't find any imfo on doing this. Do I pull the bearing housing to remove the old wheels? I put penetrating oil on the entire shaft, loosened the set screws, but I can't get any thing to move..  any kind of advice sure would help!!
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Bluesssman
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« Reply #1 on: April 28, 2010, 09:58:39 am »

Post some pictures of the unit and I am sure we can help you. Usually the wheels are held on the shaft by compression. Releasing the nut releases the pressure. You may have lots of rust holding the washers. Penetrating oil will help, but won't remove the rust. Hope this helps...


Gary
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Taogem
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« Reply #2 on: April 28, 2010, 10:22:00 am »

Welcome aboard Kerry..

With my HP, it is necessary to remove the entire arbor. Yes, like your thinking by removing the caps that hold it in place.

Once removed even with the use of penetrating oil, I find it necessary to lightly tap the end of the arbor with bearing, wheels and all against a piece of wood on the floor of my garage until everything begins to slide off.. If you have a ton of built up gunk on the arbor, a touch of sand paper to remove that might help a bit too.

I find the same process is necessary for replacing everything too. Lightly tapping the entire arbor assembly as I add the parts back to the arbor.

There are hex key type screws on each of the bearings holding them in place to the arbor. Be sure to loosen those.

Mine is a model 10 which has the trim saw on one end and a flat polishing disc on the opposite end. It originally only had a couple of wheels and now I have four diamond wheels on it. Could fit five and still manage.

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Kerry
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« Reply #3 on: April 28, 2010, 01:40:29 pm »

Hi Gary and George : Left a post on LGCF this morning  and you were kind enough to respond. I could not compress the photo small enough for this site. this is the HP a-50 I asked about.  I'm told by George that the wheels come off the right side.  But it looks like the threaded part of the shaft (where the nut turns) maybe threaded into the bearing assembly. I may be  wrong.  any info. sure would be helpful.
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Taogem
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« Reply #4 on: April 28, 2010, 04:39:14 pm »

Are you getting some kind of error notice when you try to add your picture here about it being too large or something ?

Do you know how to resize your image while it is on your computer before you attempt to upload it here?

Or.. Are you familiar with hosting pictures on Photobucket ?  The third post down within this thread shows how my computer is set up to do image resizing.. Maybe yours is similar or the same..

I am not visualizing the "threaded part of the shaft (where the nut turns) maybe threaded into the bearing assembly" that your describing.

Let me know if you need more help with getting us an image up.

If worst comes to worst...  Attach your pics within an email to me at  geori1957@yahoo.com  and I will get em up for us to look at.





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catmandewe
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« Reply #5 on: April 28, 2010, 04:40:54 pm »

Make sure your bearings don't have concentric lock rings holding them on.
If they do you need to loosen the set screw, then use a punch and turn them off, usually counterclockwise, but I have seen them both ways. Once the lockring comes off, they usually slide off really easy.
If they don't come off easy then a press really helps if you have access to one. Be careful and don't bugger up your ends, protect them with a piece of wood or something while you are working or banging on it.
While you have it apart, its a good time to check to see if you need new bearings and/or belt.

Pictures would help alot.

Have a great day..........Tony
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« Reply #6 on: April 29, 2010, 06:54:03 pm »

The HP units I've taken apart all had the concentric lock collars.  Like Tony said.  I remove the set screws completely and pour penetrating oil (Liquid Wrench, etc.) in the hole.  The concentric collar is loosened by tapping in opposite direction of rotation. One easy way to tell if you have concentric collars is you will have one set screw and one hole that looks like a dimple.  Put the punch or screw driver in the dimple to tap loose.  Use either sand paper or sand cloth strips and remove all visible rust from shaft before trying to remove.  Anything removed that attached with setscrews will leave dings in the shaft.  These are easily filed out with a file.   
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« Reply #7 on: May 01, 2010, 03:55:11 pm »

Hey Kerry,

Just curious.. How are you making out with this ?
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Kerry
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« Reply #8 on: May 05, 2010, 01:29:48 pm »

What a great club! if I had read and done Word for Word with the information you folks gave me, I would've been finished a long time ago.  Rust was holding on the bearing housing, and with the help from a friend and a pipe wrench.  The bearing housing broke loose from the arbor.  with Emory cloth I polished off all the rust off the shaft, and now everything slides on nice and smooth!

Now I'm cutting my agates with diamond wheels and belts not grinding them like before.  Thank you so much for all your help!  Now I'm going to go navigate somewhere else in the form.
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« Reply #9 on: May 17, 2010, 04:30:24 pm »

I read this post with great interest as I to am having problems with bearings and shafts and all that stuff.  Looks like I am going to have to resort to the old pipe wrench.   I always get bad bites in whatever I am working on.

Gary S.
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-Gary

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Whether you think you can, or you think you can't, you're probably right.
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« Reply #10 on: June 05, 2010, 08:36:37 pm »



Although mine is not the model 50, thought would add this for future searches as long as I was replacing one.

Model L10



Pull the bearing cap off



Pull this bearing and pully cover off



Here is where your at so far



Unbolt bearing housings on each end



Take the trim saw base plate off



Remove and here is where your at so far



Remove trim saw blade



Loosen both of these set screws



Loosen and remove the bolt that tightens all the wheels down and also this one bearing



Here is what you have so far



Stand the whole assembly on end and tap on a piece of wood. Although I do use the concrete floor. If some small burs result, I file them down prior to trying to sliding new wheels on during reasembly.



Here is what you have..



Reverse process for reasembly





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« Reply #11 on: June 06, 2010, 11:00:45 am »


George, great job of documentation.

TOG
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-Gary

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« Reply #12 on: June 06, 2010, 08:28:30 pm »

great pics and instructions. thanks. I do not need to do it yet but it is good to see.
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RoyKims
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« Reply #13 on: May 27, 2011, 09:27:49 pm »

you all were lucky. the large 1 1/2'' nut on my frantom would not budge even when using a pipe wrench and 3' breaker bar. i ended up using my angle grinder to cut it off.
a good way i found to get the penetrating oil in was to drill small holes in the part all the way to the shaft and apply it so it soaks from the inside.. all my collars had cracks in them so i made more when i reassembled..

good luck,
roy
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« Reply #14 on: May 28, 2011, 08:08:28 am »

When I was doing HVAC work for restaurant chains time was money.  If a bearing was to hard to remove and being replaced it was cutting torch or SawZall time.  If the bearings are good on an HP, I leave the left side bolted down and only remove the right.  Slide everything off the right side. 
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