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James D. Farrow
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« on: July 25, 2015, 10:28:24 am » |
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H! I got some of these for my 6" Hi-Tech Trim Saw: http://www.hitechdiamond.com/Red_Sintered_Continuous_Rim_Sawblade.htmland am really having troubles. I hardly put any pressure on the rock to cut it and it just stops (jams) the blade from turning. If I run my finger along the edge of the blade it is smooth. It cut only a tiny bit of the rock. And the rock has only worn some of the red off the side of the blade. Am I doing something wrong? Do this type of blade need to be dressed? Sorry if this is a dumb question but am a newbie at this. Thanks, James P.S. The blade that came with the saw is fine. Cuts well. |
James D. Farrow
Mississauga, Ontario, Canada
"No more trains will be sold once the magazine leaves the station"
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catmandewe
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« Reply #1 on: July 25, 2015, 10:44:47 am » |
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Does the arbor stop also or is the arbor spinning and the blade stops?
Tony
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James D. Farrow
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« Reply #2 on: July 25, 2015, 10:49:33 am » |
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The arbor stops too.
I know that can't be good for the motor.
It doesn't stop/jam with the silver blade that came with it.
At the link I gave it shows a close up of the blade edge. Diamond showing.
My blade is solid red right up to the edge and on the edge.
Just a bit of red has now worn off in spots from rubbing on the blade (I gather).
James
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James D. Farrow
Mississauga, Ontario, Canada
"No more trains will be sold once the magazine leaves the station"
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jakesrocks
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« Reply #3 on: July 25, 2015, 11:36:52 am » |
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Check to see if the blade has a directional arrow stamped or printed on it.
Take the blade off & clean the flange washers & arbor real good before putting the blade back on. Even a tiny bit of grit between the blade & washers can cause the blade to run out of true & cause the blade to jamb.
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A day spent without learning something new, is a day wasted. Don  |
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James D. Farrow
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« Reply #4 on: July 25, 2015, 11:41:23 am » |
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I asked John at JS Gems about the direction. The silver blade has the arrow. The red ones do not.
John said Hi-Tech said they were non-directional.
I will check the flange washer and arbor.
Thanks!
James
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James D. Farrow
Mississauga, Ontario, Canada
"No more trains will be sold once the magazine leaves the station"
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James D. Farrow
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« Reply #5 on: July 25, 2015, 12:06:57 pm » |
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The flange washer and arbor are fine.
I tried again and tried to slice off a really thin piece of rock.
It sort of cut but the slice was so thin it kind of flaked off in little pieces.
It really wore off the red covering on the side of the blade.
And underneath it is really smooth to the touch.
The silver blade you can feel the diamond. Not really sharp but
a little rough. But the red one is super smooth.
James
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James D. Farrow
Mississauga, Ontario, Canada
"No more trains will be sold once the magazine leaves the station"
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55fossil
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« Reply #6 on: July 25, 2015, 12:48:16 pm » |
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It sounds like you may just need to clean the front edge of your diamond blade. They sell a blade sharpener at Diamond Pacific but a piece of any grinding wheel will work. Even a piece of sand paper might do the trick. If there is red paint then you are not getting to the diamonds. Start your saw up and cut the Silicon Carbide grinding wheel for a few seconds and see if the paint does not go away and expose diamonds to cut with. Another thought is if you have a piece of obsidian or other soft stone try and cut that. Obsidian will actually help clean a saw blade.
Question. You said the arbor stops. Does the motor stop as well or is it a belt drive and the motor continues to run? If it stops the motor I would really question whether it is the blade or a weak motor. You really need to jam a blade up to stop a good motor. Maybe if you have a friend in the area you could borrow another blade to try??? good luck, Neal
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James D. Farrow
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« Reply #7 on: July 25, 2015, 01:10:07 pm » |
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The red paint has worn off. About a 1/2". That's what I was referring to when I said it is really smooth.
Both on the cutting edge, and on the side of the blade. Silky smooth. Can't feel any diamond
at all.
The motor keeps running. Just the arbor stops. Not for to long as I pull back on the rock right away.
Afraid it might burn out.
James
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James D. Farrow
Mississauga, Ontario, Canada
"No more trains will be sold once the magazine leaves the station"
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55fossil
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« Reply #8 on: July 25, 2015, 01:23:03 pm » |
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James; Well, if there is no diamond exposed you need to get to it. Cutting a silicon carbide grinding wheel is the accepted method for fixing sintered blades. You can cut an inch or two into the SC wheel and it will remove any metal that is keeping the diamonds hidden. Do not thump a sintered blade with even a tiny hammer trying to expose the diamonds. That is for notched rim blades. You can usually see the diamonds with a magnifying glass or even opt visors.
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catmandewe
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« Reply #9 on: July 25, 2015, 02:46:48 pm » |
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I got a red blade with my 30" saw that never did cut good, I replaced it with a 303P and the saw ran fine, you might have gotten one out of a bad batch.
Tony
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PhilNM
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Yep. return it and get a new one.
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orrum
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He said he got some. Some to me is more than one so try another blade but cut the silicon carbide first l.
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lithicbeads
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Lots of good advice. If the diamond is buried correct dressing may help . Quality control of lapidary tools is a thing of the past for the most part.
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James D. Farrow
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Yes, I got 2.
Will try the other one and see if it's the same.
If it is, I will e-mail John and see what he says.
Thanks,
James
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James D. Farrow
Mississauga, Ontario, Canada
"No more trains will be sold once the magazine leaves the station"
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vitzitziltecpatl
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The subject of painted saw blades has always confused me. How is it supposed to be good to paint a blade? Not just talking about the rim, but paint even on the core makes no sense to me.
Prevents rust? So - just take care of your blades and make sure they're left dry. The paint on the core below the rim just seems to take up room in the cut that could be available for circulating coolant. I always remove the paint. Less drag on the blade in my opinion.
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