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Refurbishing Highland Park E10

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Author Topic: Refurbishing Highland Park E10  (Read 1124 times)
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« Reply #15 on: April 23, 2015, 09:58:29 am »

Nice! I wish the saw was separate on this one, but I'm not complaining too much since it was a nearly-free machine.
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« Reply #16 on: April 24, 2015, 02:31:20 pm »

Hi All

If space is a big issue I would consider keeping the end for a flat disk set up. It was said above that it is not threaded. I am not sure if they make a magnetic set up with a collar. It is worth looking into. If so then you could change grit in a matter of seconds.

As a jeweler you probably want to cut calibrated stones. That is my speciality dunno. It is my opinion that a flat lap is very helpful in cutting them. You can adjust the surface of a flat disk "give" to the stone ect. This will allow you to change disks to the job you are doing. Flats and angles need a hard disk contours do better with a flexiable rubber backed disk.

Hope that helps.
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« Reply #17 on: April 29, 2015, 01:01:26 pm »

Actually, no, I am not looking to cut calibrated stones. I'm looking to make unusual shapes for custom one of a kind pieces of jewelry. I'm an old-school-style jeweler who is capable of fabricating or casting any size and shape of setting I might need. I want to cut my own stones because I'm tired of trying to find interesting, unique ones at reasonable prices.
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« Reply #18 on: June 06, 2015, 07:22:56 pm »

So, I'm almost finished refurbishing this machine. I still need to get a new saw blade, make a new rock vise, replace a couple thumbscrews, find little brass petcocks for the water drip system, cut a piece of plexi for a splash guard on the saw, and get different spacers for the grinding wheels because the existing ones are not going to work.

Other than that, I managed to get it all disassembled with the aid of a lot of swearing, pounding, and a whole plethora of different hand tools.  I electrolytically de-rusted the arbor shaft which worked really well. I wire-brushed everything, then painted it with primer for aluminum and then painted it all. I coated the drip tray under the grinding wheels with white plasti-dip. I think what I'm actually going to end up doing is removing the saw table, and putting it on its own arbor and motor. Then fabricating up a second splash hood for a couple more wheels to put where the saw table went. Since I need more grinding wheels anyway, I think that's the setup I'd like better than having the saw mounted there.

* HP Refurb.jpg (3917.32 KB, 5312x2988 - viewed 69 times.)
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« Reply #19 on: June 07, 2015, 08:40:33 am »

I did exactly what you want to do with your saw I detached it and moved it to the opposite end of my 8' ft work bench it gets the oil mess and stuff away from the cabbing unit. I think you will be happy you did it.
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« Reply #20 on: June 07, 2015, 08:49:57 am »

Good to know, thank you! It just seems so in the way and inconvenient there, when it would be so much nicer to have more grinding wheels instead. I've got a second motor I can use for the saw, so it's just a matter of making a short arbor and getting a couple pillow blocks for it.
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