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Refurbishing Highland Park E10

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Author Topic: Refurbishing Highland Park E10  (Read 1155 times)
Talia
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« on: April 17, 2015, 08:58:28 am »

Hey all, new here. Need advice on whether this machine is worth rebuilding. Found it in the back of an old truck at an auto salvage yard last weekend. Lately I've been thinking about cutting my own stones, so it was kind of a serendipitous discovery, as long as I can get it fixed up.

To me, it looks pretty straight forward to take it apart, de-rust it a bit, get it bead blasted and then repaint. What I don't know is how to tell if the two wheels on it are usable, and what parts it is missing. It turns freely so I'm betting the bearings are going to be fine with a good repacking.  What size motor should I put on it? Can I put another couple grinding wheels on it? What kind of wheels should I buy? I think the sawblade also needs replacing unless it can be de-rusted somehow.

Any advice is appreciated. I've attached photos of the unit.


* Highland.jpg (27.7 KB, 252x448 - viewed 13 times.)

* Highland 3.jpg (32.93 KB, 448x252 - viewed 27 times.)

* Highland 4.jpg (20.17 KB, 448x252 - viewed 13 times.)
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orrum
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« Reply #1 on: April 17, 2015, 05:01:14 pm »

Looks like a good deal to me! Get a belt that is made from lnks, Harbor Freight has them, they are quieter.
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Talia
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« Reply #2 on: April 17, 2015, 05:06:22 pm »

I have a drill press that doesn't track quite straight anymore, that I figured I would fab up a mounting and use that for the motor. Nice thing about that is it has a good belt and step pulley already on it. I'm hoping I can add two more wheels in between the original two, and maybe one of those expanding wheels where the flat one is right now.
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peruano
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« Reply #3 on: April 18, 2015, 07:04:54 am »

You can add as many wheels as you can fit in the space.  I recently put 3 Novas in a space comparable to what you have (I have the B12), so I doubt 4 wheels will fit if you leave any room between them.  Your challenge for an expando on the end will be a new tray and hood (easy to buy) and using flanges that have set screws to attach to the arbor shaft.  You have no threads on the end where the polishing disk is.  But Covington sells collars for such applications.  I believe the shaft will be 3/4".  Good luck with the rebuild.  Tom 
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Tom
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Talia
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« Reply #4 on: April 18, 2015, 09:28:01 am »

I've never done any lapidary work before, so I'm not sure how much clearance I will want between the wheels. As far as a hood goes, I can weld one up out of sheet metal.  I was assuming I would have to cut threads on the shaft, so it's l good to know who makes an adaptor. Thanks!
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johnjsgems
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« Reply #5 on: April 21, 2015, 11:52:04 am »

Looks like it is all there.  Three wheels would leave space between wheels.  You have to remove one bearing to change/add wheels so use good wheels that last.  I would convert it to diamond wheels.  I would probably use up the silicon carbide wheels first.  You can safely use them until they wear down to labels on sides of wheels (if no labels 8" wheels can be used to about 6" diameter).  Then save the worn wheels for blade dressing. Always turn off water and run the unit for about 10 minutes to "spin dry" the SC wheels after use.  A good 1/3 hp motor or 1/2 hp would work fine.  1725 rpm. 
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Talia
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« Reply #6 on: April 21, 2015, 12:00:49 pm »

Thanks, good advice. I'm apparently missing two parts though, if pictures I've found online are accurate. I believe there's supposed to be some sort of guard around the flat wheel on the end, and also some sort of bar in front of the grinding wheels that is used as a cab rest. I'm not particularly concerned about replacing either of them, since the jeweler in me looks at it and thinks "those will just get in the way..."
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kennyg
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« Reply #7 on: April 21, 2015, 12:30:46 pm »

I have an old unit that has the tool rest with it and I use it constantly for doing my preforms I don't have a bubble in my a** like some do so it helps a lot to get a vertical girdle or a slightly bevelled one depending on what you are cutting for i.e. silversmithing or for wire wrapping.
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Talia
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« Reply #8 on: April 21, 2015, 12:40:43 pm »

Good point about the tool rest. I have no stone-cutting experience, but as a jeweler I'm well aware of the need for a proper girdle on stones I am setting. I may fab one up if I can't find one for a reasonable price. I can always remove it if it doesn't work for me.
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Isotelus
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« Reply #9 on: April 21, 2015, 07:07:52 pm »

That's a great find.

Heck I'd rebuild it no questions asked.
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Bryan
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« Reply #10 on: April 22, 2015, 05:11:10 am »

The intended purpose of the tool rest is to steady a diamond dressing tool to dress the carbide wheel.  It can be nice to have, but not required.  I would be very hesitant to hang a heavy wheel off the end of a high speed shaft.  Any imbalance at all will very quickly become quite dangerous.
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Talia
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« Reply #11 on: April 22, 2015, 05:25:44 am »

So leave the flat wheel on the end instead of putting an expanding one there. Hadn't thought of the imbalance, thank you.
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peruano
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« Reply #12 on: April 23, 2015, 05:58:12 am »

Both the tool rest and the vertical polishing disc hood would be easy or reasonable to fabricate. Let me know if you want a photo of either one as designed by HP.  My Pixie came with a plastic tool rest that would be especially easy to make from wood, plastic, or ?? and serve the purpose. Maybe Genies do as well. 

I appreciate the word of caution about hanging a wheel where one was not intended, but I believe the original design of that machine had a thumper wheel in the position contemplated.  An expando is a bit heavier but not that heavy so I suspect others have made that switch.  Maybe others will chime in.  I ask because I was going to do the same thing.  I need the expando more than I need a polishing disk.  Tom 
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Tom
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Talia
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« Reply #13 on: April 23, 2015, 06:05:39 am »

Yes, I would very much prefer an expanding wheel there instead of the flat wheel. It would make the utility of this machine a lot greater if I could use belts and easily swap them out. Otherwise, I'm stuck with only being able to have three wheels and a flat on the end, which would mean I need another motor to put more wheels on. Living in a very small house with no garage and limited space makes size an issue. I suppose I won't know for sure if it will vibrate too much until I put one there and see.

Also, I would love a photo of the tool rest. I have an idea of how to make one, but I'd love to see what you've got. Thanks!
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« Reply #14 on: April 23, 2015, 09:01:29 am »

I've a similar machine but a tad longer. Separate motors for saw blade and wheel shaft. Originally came with a thumper which I changed over to an expando. I remove the expando when I need the leather end disc for polishing. There is an aluminum  "splatter" guard for the end disc which can be easy removed. The shaft is large enough diameter to support the turning of the expando without any vibration.

Looks like a great find !


* Rock saw reberth 004.jpg (70.43 KB, 600x450 - viewed 31 times.)
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Talia
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« Reply #15 on: April 23, 2015, 09:58:29 am »

Nice! I wish the saw was separate on this one, but I'm not complaining too much since it was a nearly-free machine.
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« Reply #16 on: April 24, 2015, 02:31:20 pm »

Hi All

If space is a big issue I would consider keeping the end for a flat disk set up. It was said above that it is not threaded. I am not sure if they make a magnetic set up with a collar. It is worth looking into. If so then you could change grit in a matter of seconds.

As a jeweler you probably want to cut calibrated stones. That is my speciality dunno. It is my opinion that a flat lap is very helpful in cutting them. You can adjust the surface of a flat disk "give" to the stone ect. This will allow you to change disks to the job you are doing. Flats and angles need a hard disk contours do better with a flexiable rubber backed disk.

Hope that helps.
Bless
Shawn
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Talia
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« Reply #17 on: April 29, 2015, 01:01:26 pm »

Actually, no, I am not looking to cut calibrated stones. I'm looking to make unusual shapes for custom one of a kind pieces of jewelry. I'm an old-school-style jeweler who is capable of fabricating or casting any size and shape of setting I might need. I want to cut my own stones because I'm tired of trying to find interesting, unique ones at reasonable prices.
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Talia
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« Reply #18 on: June 06, 2015, 07:22:56 pm »

So, I'm almost finished refurbishing this machine. I still need to get a new saw blade, make a new rock vise, replace a couple thumbscrews, find little brass petcocks for the water drip system, cut a piece of plexi for a splash guard on the saw, and get different spacers for the grinding wheels because the existing ones are not going to work.

Other than that, I managed to get it all disassembled with the aid of a lot of swearing, pounding, and a whole plethora of different hand tools.  I electrolytically de-rusted the arbor shaft which worked really well. I wire-brushed everything, then painted it with primer for aluminum and then painted it all. I coated the drip tray under the grinding wheels with white plasti-dip. I think what I'm actually going to end up doing is removing the saw table, and putting it on its own arbor and motor. Then fabricating up a second splash hood for a couple more wheels to put where the saw table went. Since I need more grinding wheels anyway, I think that's the setup I'd like better than having the saw mounted there.


* HP Refurb.jpg (3917.32 KB, 5312x2988 - viewed 70 times.)
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« Reply #19 on: June 07, 2015, 08:40:33 am »

I did exactly what you want to do with your saw I detached it and moved it to the opposite end of my 8' ft work bench it gets the oil mess and stuff away from the cabbing unit. I think you will be happy you did it.
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Talia
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« Reply #20 on: June 07, 2015, 08:49:57 am »

Good to know, thank you! It just seems so in the way and inconvenient there, when it would be so much nicer to have more grinding wheels instead. I've got a second motor I can use for the saw, so it's just a matter of making a short arbor and getting a couple pillow blocks for it.
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