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April 24, 2019, 12:07:26 pm
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Update: bought a Lortone ST-10 (or LS-10?) slab saw - advice needed!

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Author Topic: Update: bought a Lortone ST-10 (or LS-10?) slab saw - advice needed!  (Read 891 times)
mirkaba
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« Reply #15 on: March 08, 2015, 01:31:27 pm »

Thanks for the video Finegemdesigns. The hole where the crossfeed crank runs through has worn on mine. Next fix! My LS-10 has been rebuilt a couple times. Bearings and bushings are still get-able. I just ordered the split nut for the feed assembly from Lortone and they were great to deal with. I love my old LS-10 It has been a great saw, easy to work on and has sawed LOTS of slabs. I gave  450.00 for mine (used) many moons ago and it has payed for itself many times over. Good Luck.........Bob
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Talusman
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« Reply #16 on: March 08, 2015, 03:42:28 pm »

Ok, so here's how it went down:

He had the saw set up on a table, and after I checked it out, volunteered to fire it up. Blade spun, but autofeed wasn't turning. He took the cover off the autofeed, and we could see that the motor was not turning. He unplugged, moved the rotor in the motor by hand a few times and tried again. The rotor would turn a few times, then slow and stop.

At this point, I was trying to figure out if I wanted a new project or not. The saw looked pretty nice - it would be a sweet addition to the shop if I could get it working. While I was thinking, he said that he should have checked the drive before listing it, but it worked when he bought it. He offered to try to get a new drive for me, then after a minute, offered that if I wanted to take on the drive myself he'd let me have it for $200, including a sturdy table to put it on. I accepted, and brought home a new project.

Here's where things get interesting.  help

When I got it home, I set it up and plugged it in. While taking pictures, I was resting my hand on the frame and got the tatoo-needle sensation of 120V on my hand. Not good!  omg

Out came the circuit tester and yes, indeed, the entire saw was energized. After much troubleshooting, I've isolated the source to the autofeed. Connect the hot end of the coil and the saw goes hot. So for now the autofeed is on the kitchen table.

Questions:

1.) Any idea where I can get a replacement drive for the autofeed?
2.) Any idea what failure mode would cause the drive unit to pass 120V to the drive shaft (and hence the entire saw)?

The saw looks really neat, and I'm hopeful I can get it back in shape. (And thankful I was wearing boots so that I only got a small amount of current - just enough to know what was going on).

The restoration journey begins!

-Jeremy



* ST-10.jpg (134.83 KB, 576x480 - viewed 9 times.)

* ST-10 2.jpg (132.37 KB, 576x480 - viewed 8 times.)

* Vise.jpg (119.45 KB, 576x480 - viewed 7 times.)

* Autofeed.jpg (91.64 KB, 384x576 - viewed 9 times.)

* motor.jpg (117.02 KB, 576x384 - viewed 6 times.)
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deb193
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« Reply #17 on: March 08, 2015, 04:19:01 pm »

it is in good shape and you got a deal at $200.

I think you can put the motor for the LS12 saw in there. Lortone still sells it. You may have to source a new coupling because the motor shaft and the thread rod size have changed a little over the years.

the motor should not be able to turn in the box,but if it does, it can push against one of the wires connected to the switch. just re-insulate those 3 wires. there should also be a plate that goes on the motor to keep it from rotating in the box.

http://www.lortone.com/pdf/LS12C_Parts_List.pdf

plate is part# 052-22
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- Daniel

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Talusman
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« Reply #18 on: March 08, 2015, 04:27:54 pm »

Hi Deb,

Thanks for the info.

The juice is somehow making it from the hot side of the coil to the drive shaft. The unit does have the anti-rotating plate in place, and wiring in the box is ok.

I'll give Lortone a call tomorrow and see if they have the drive unit.

The rotor spins freely and still turns the shaft (had to hand-spin a lot to get a little movement due to the ratio.) It's a shame I can't get a new coil as that seems to be the failure point.

-Jeremy

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deb193
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« Reply #19 on: March 08, 2015, 04:59:10 pm »

the motor is about $80 if I recall. you can get a cheaper  4rpm gear motor surplus if the size is about right.
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catmandewe
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« Reply #20 on: March 08, 2015, 08:51:09 pm »

Take the wrap off the coil on the motor and check for a broken wire in there, that is usually the problem, solder it back together and rewrap the coil, that should fix it.

Nice find!

Tony
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dickb
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« Reply #21 on: March 08, 2015, 09:24:19 pm »

A volt/ohm meter would be a big help here. There should be no connection between either black wire and the steel frame of the motor. If you get a reading on the meter that shows the winding is in contact with the frame and shows continuity, then the motor is bad. It no continuity, then you should be able to connect a 110 volt wire to each black wire and the motor should run. The area around 7:00 an the winding that shows orange worries me. That may be where your ground is. I can't see the other side of the motor but if it's bad you should replace it rather than try and repair. Next time you may not get a tickle. Also. the ground can possible be in the rest of the wiring or switches. A GFCI will definitely protect you in this case. If the GFCI kicks out, the problem has not been fixed.

Hopefully, you can find someone local that understands electricity to help you with this.

Dickb
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« Reply #22 on: March 09, 2015, 03:49:52 am »

That is a pretty clean looking saw.  For $200, it seems like a really good deal.  Hope it all turns out well for you.  Also, look at it as a learning experience.  You are getting to know your new saw inside and out and will be that more knowledgeable if anything else wears out and you will be able to handle it. 

The more i read about members buying used saws, the more it makes me want to go out next time and find a cheap but decent saw.  I have been one of those wasteful consumers that always had to buy everything new, like cars, SUVs, slab saw, Genie, etc.  It was great having new, but the people that got my toys after me, got great deals and saved a ton of money.  By restoring your saw, you can gain great insight into its construction quality and how it works, and that can give you a much better experience in the long run.  Good luck and enjoy your new saw.
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« Reply #23 on: March 09, 2015, 07:52:45 am »

Nice saw and a sweet deal.  Even with a bad drive motor you didn't get hurt.  I would just replace it.  I recall finding  several of them on E-Bay.  I have a ST-10 and love it.
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« Reply #24 on: March 09, 2015, 10:42:55 am »

I love the 10 inch lortone saws.  I have 3 and mine have worked great.  If the saw was energized it probably was a loose wire in the front mounting that holds the feed mechanism.  Just take it off and see what loose wires there are.  You might not even need to get a new feed motor.
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johnjsgems
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« Reply #25 on: March 10, 2015, 11:35:46 am »

Lortone is notorious for being the "bargain priced low end" equipment supplier.  Everything works and made in USA and low price lets many get into an otherwise high priced hobby.  The exception to the rule is the old Lortone 10" saw.  At Quartzsite there is often a line of people wanting to buy used ones for $400-$500.  I'm no fan of Lortone but the old 10" saw is believed by most people to be among the best saws ever built.  Why they stopped making it is baffling to me.  I would buy the feed motor from Lortone.  Green was pretty old and preceded the gold that preceded the baby blue.  Lortone can tell you the age when you call but I think early 70's.
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« Reply #26 on: March 10, 2015, 12:26:23 pm »

I have the same saw.  Got it used from someone who also bought it used.  It is a great saw & a real workhorse.  I totally agree with what Mark said as I have had to do a couple of things to mine.  It has been a wonderful learning experience.  I'd say you totally got a bargain on that one & once you get'er running you will be totally happy with it!
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« Reply #27 on: March 10, 2015, 12:37:43 pm »

Thank you very much, finegemdesigns for that video!!!!  yes  I do believe that is the issue with my saw right now & I couldn't figure out how, what, when or why to correct it.  Your retrofit should work the same with the LT-10, shouldn't it?
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« Reply #28 on: March 10, 2015, 01:46:28 pm »

Thanks again to all for the great info.

DonniesT - what was the symptom your saw was showing that you think might be attributed to the loose cross-feed?

Thanks!

-Jeremy
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« Reply #29 on: March 10, 2015, 02:16:09 pm »

Jeremy, it's just that the handle used to move the vise forward & backward is very loose feeling. 
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