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Lapidary / Gemstone Community Forum
December 11, 2018, 06:47:25 pm
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wide band rings and their sizes on the mandrel

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Author Topic: wide band rings and their sizes on the mandrel  (Read 386 times)
asterix
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« on: December 18, 2014, 06:38:24 am »

Hi everybody,

I have to make a couple of rings in sizes 11 & 12. This wouldn't be a problem .... but they are WIDE band rings. Meaning they are about 0.5-0.6mm wide. More or less double than the normal- most frequent- width. They are made in copper, so spending too much material is not a big deal.

The problem is that when you use the mandrel to enlarge the rings its difficult to know when to stop, due to the ring width. So, for having two rings done, i'm actually doing about 4-6 ... and i want to know how to avoid all this mess.

Look at the pic:



There you can see the ring (copper). As i mentioned, it's about 0.6 mm width. From the pic, one can deduce ring size is <= 12.5 and >11. (yes, if i insert the ring the other way round is the same, all numbers are equal) So, it will fit a finger size 11 .... at least ... and 12.5 at most ... Hmmm ... quite a strange finger size ....

How do you deal with this wide band rings? Is there kinda rule or something?
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GregHiller
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« Reply #1 on: December 18, 2014, 06:44:56 am »

Not a direct answer to your question, but copper directly against the skin I think is usually a really bad idea.  It's far to reactive.  I believe you can put a thin film of silver over it on areas that touch the skin. 
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asterix
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« Reply #2 on: December 18, 2014, 06:48:33 am »

Hi,

Yes, true. Some ppl is allergic to copper in fact. But that's just the plain copper, no patina and no finishing. It will change a little bit when it's finished :)

Regards.
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redrockrods
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« Reply #3 on: December 18, 2014, 09:17:12 am »

Time for a new ring mandrel...all those rough marks are being transferred onto your metal...are you using a metal hammer? Should only use raw hide mallet or rubber/plastic hammer to avoid damaging your tools.

Best way to avoid the mess, use a chart like this: http://www.dlcgems.com/ring-blank-size-chart.html and cut the material to make the exact size you need instead of trying to resize it on the mandrel.

As far as raw copper on skin, yes, it will turn most people green where it contacts the skin; but that doesn't necessarily mean "allergic".  Metal allergy results in rash, blisters and itching. Personal rant time - metal allergy people drive me nuts: Customer - "oh I'm allergic to nickel and can't wear any jewelry" Me - "none of my jewelry contains nickel" customer - "yeah, I can't wear any of it" Me - "Okay...bye..." I sell a lot of copper and brass jewelry. when a customer asks if it will turn them green, you say "Yes" and they buy it anyway. Clear coats on rings don't work in my experience, too much contact with skin, oil, moisture, soaps, etc to keep the coating effective.  A silver undercoat would work if you want to spend the extra time and expense doing so.
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asterix
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« Reply #4 on: December 18, 2014, 12:03:45 pm »

Time for a new ring mandrel...all those rough marks are being transferred onto your metal...are you using a metal hammer? Should only use raw hide mallet or rubber/plastic hammer to avoid damaging your tools.

Best way to avoid the mess, use a chart like this: http://www.dlcgems.com/ring-blank-size-chart.html and cut the material to make the exact size you need instead of trying to resize it on the mandrel.

As far as raw copper on skin, yes, it will turn most people green where it contacts the skin; but that doesn't necessarily mean "allergic".  Metal allergy results in rash, blisters and itching. Personal rant time - metal allergy people drive me nuts: Customer - "oh I'm allergic to nickel and can't wear any jewelry" Me - "none of my jewelry contains nickel" customer - "yeah, I can't wear any of it" Me - "Okay...bye..." I sell a lot of copper and brass jewelry. when a customer asks if it will turn them green, you say "Yes" and they buy it anyway. Clear coats on rings don't work in my experience, too much contact with skin, oil, moisture, soaps, etc to keep the coating effective.  A silver undercoat would work if you want to spend the extra time and expense doing so.

Yes, poor mandrel ... has had a hard life .... I have another one, new, which does its work perfectly. I learned the hard way you shouldn't use metal tools on metal :)

I'm always honest and inform people that copper gets oxidized quite easily. Its not silver. You shouldn't be washing your hands with your ring on, and you shouldn't believe your copper jewelry will last forever. It won't. And they buy it. Copper is much cheaper than silver, and also lets you put much more effort on the design.  Here in Spain, due to the financial crisis, a lot of people who is keen on jewelry has moved from silver/gold to brass/copper.

In the next months, i will mix copper&silver. Let's see how it works.

Thanks for the info!


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tetonartgallery
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« Reply #5 on: December 18, 2014, 12:15:46 pm »

Maybe i missed it, but no one answered the wide band question.  I usually tell customers to go up a half size from what they usually  wear for wide bands I feel that the largest circumference is the ring size - your photo 12.5 - there is such a minimal difference in a half ring size all that really matters is that the customer likes the fit. 
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lopacki
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« Reply #6 on: December 18, 2014, 01:26:14 pm »

Asterix,
If you know the size of the ring, look at a ring chart to see the diameter needed for the hole. Take the diameter then add the thickness of the metal to it. An example a size 14 ring has a diameter of .91 inch 18 gauge is .040 thick. .91 + .040 = .95 once you have the number multiply is by PI 3.141  .95 X 3.141= 2.98. This is the length you need to cut your metal to have it come out at exactly the size 14 your after.

Hope this is of some help ....... All my best .......... Danny
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asterix
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« Reply #7 on: December 19, 2014, 04:24:39 am »

Hi guys,

Well, finally i've made all sizes ranging from 11 to 14 (11,11.5 etc) and she's tried them out. It's been a good idea to make them all, cos the result is:

where she measured size 11 => almost size 14
where she measured size 12 => slightly larger than size 14

 And yes, i'm not making any mistake measuring it. I have checked them all more than a few times .... It's incredible how much size can vary due to this.

Anyway, leason learnt, from now on, and given i do everything on demand, i will look for a suitable way to make adjustable rings. Cos i can't be doing so much work for each and every order.

Thanks everybody for the input. You've helped me a lot.

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