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December 11, 2018, 05:20:21 pm
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What to use to back a cab?

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Author Topic: What to use to back a cab?  (Read 2024 times)
redrockrods
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« Reply #60 on: December 04, 2014, 09:24:22 am »

Regarding uneven bezels on stones, I  frequently have to contour and adjust the bezel height  to match the cut of the stone. This is particularly necessary when setting gem carvings such as fire agate in a bezel.  mark the contour of the stone on the inside of the bezel cup and then carefully grind or file down the bezel to the line and adjust as necessary.

For getting lines in the metal, numerous options...A rolling mill could add texture, but not perfectly lined up with what you have in mind. You could use an engraving tool to engrave the lines in metal but what you're really looking for I think is acid etching. use a resist to mark where you want the lines and then acid etch away the surrounding silver. that would give you raised texture exactly where you want the lines in the cabochon extended onto the metal.  A fourth option would be designing a setting in metal clay.
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PhilNM
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« Reply #61 on: December 04, 2014, 02:08:08 pm »

nno no.... use the link that's on the same line as IMG

use the line that I highlighted in this pic:

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fetaby
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« Reply #62 on: December 07, 2014, 08:24:31 pm »

2nd the acid etching.  Also bringing news that E6000 now comes in black and white.


And for pictures, just right click on the picture, copy image address, paste, highlight, and then use the second button on the left above the smilies… looks like a landscape picture. 
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mdfa.ca
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« Reply #63 on: December 10, 2014, 10:58:03 am »

Redrockrods,

I have used an engraver to create the lines where I wanted them. The acid etching would have worked as well, but I wanted the lines to be below the surface of the setting, not raised. It actually worked pretty well, I think. I will try the darn image thing again.

FIrst, it's the three amigos. The bezel, the "insert" and the cab. I am still not sure I am happy with the insert. I'd like to raise it just a bit more on one side and then compensate a bit more by grinding the bezel down, but I think I'll do that once it is soldered to the base.


Ah, thank you fetaby and everyone else who tried to walked me through posting pictues. By George, I think I have finally got it....  ura

So, here is the base with the engraved design:



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redrockrods
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« Reply #64 on: December 10, 2014, 11:15:08 am »

2nd the acid etching.  Also bringing news that E6000 now comes in black and white.


And for pictures, just right click on the picture, copy image address, paste, highlight, and then use the second button on the left above the smilies… looks like a landscape picture. 

I've always been baffled by the popularity of E6000.  It doesn't make a very strong bond, it never sets up hard and remains rubbery and tacky. I've pulled stones out of settings where E6000 was used as the glue to set the stone and all it took was a little tug on the rubbery mess to pop it out.  If you're going to use glue to set a stone, at least use something that sets hard and makes a strong bond.  E330 or even jb weld IMO are far better choices (although the best choice is not to use glue at all and set the stone properly).
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redrockrods
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« Reply #65 on: December 10, 2014, 11:16:01 am »

Redrockrods,

I have used an engraver to create the lines where I wanted them. The acid etching would have worked as well, but I wanted the lines to be below the surface of the setting, not raised. It actually worked pretty well, I think. I will try the darn image thing again.

FIrst, it's the three amigos. The bezel, the "insert" and the cab. I am still not sure I am happy with the insert. I'd like to raise it just a bit more on one side and then compensate a bit more by grinding the bezel down, but I think I'll do that once it is soldered to the base.


Ah, thank you fetaby and everyone else who tried to walked me through posting pictues. By George, I think I have finally got it....  ura

So, here is the base with the engraved design:





That setting looks terrific, nice job on the engraving.
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mdfa.ca
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« Reply #66 on: December 10, 2014, 11:21:15 am »

2nd the acid etching.  Also bringing news that E6000 now comes in black and white.


And for pictures, just right click on the picture, copy image address, paste, highlight, and then use the second button on the left above the smilies… looks like a landscape picture. 

I've always been baffled by the popularity of E6000.  It doesn't make a very strong bond, it never sets up hard and remains rubbery and tacky. I've pulled stones out of settings where E6000 was used as the glue to set the stone and all it took was a little tug on the rubbery mess to pop it out.  If you're going to use glue to set a stone, at least use something that sets hard and makes a strong bond.  E330 or even jb weld IMO are far better choices (although the best choice is not to use glue at all and set the stone properly).

I agree. E6000 is my go to when I cab welo opals, exactly for that reason. It's very easy to pop them off later, just put in the freezer for 10 min and off they go.  Can't use dopping wax with them safely.
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PhilNM
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« Reply #67 on: December 10, 2014, 09:55:22 pm »

yea!   You got it! Whoo hoo. Nice. Show us the finished setting when it's done?

Phil
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fetaby
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« Reply #68 on: December 10, 2014, 11:13:00 pm »

Very impressed here.  Must see finished piece.
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« Reply #69 on: December 11, 2014, 10:35:18 am »

Thanks, guys! I most certainly will. Hope to get it done this weekend.
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PhilNM
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« Reply #70 on: December 12, 2014, 06:52:35 pm »

If you haven't mounted it yet, I found the perfect!!!! backing for you. Soft enough to deform to your needs, stable, slightly sticky, etc......
I was playing around making up a setup to photo my cabs and someone said to stick them to a dowel, pin, whatever, but hidden behind the cab so the cab looks like it's floating above the background using ...... ta da!!! poster tacking putty. You can buy it at walmart, hobby lobby, etc etc etc and it works well! I stick a little bit of it to a cab then to a dowel and left it set to see what happens.  It stayed stuck, but not so stuck I couldn't easily remove it.  As long as what you're making is contained by a bezel, it's perfect! 
Give it a shot, it only cost $2 for a bunch!  Just look for poster tack!
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« Reply #71 on: December 16, 2014, 10:57:42 am »

Hey PhilNM,

THanks for trying but I'm not sure that would be a good choice. I've actually got some experience with this stuff (wall tack, or tacky putty). I actually use it in my drawing as an excellent graphite picker-upper, but would never leave it on paper for an extended period of time. It does leach some oily chemical, albeit very slowly, and I have no idea what affect that would have on the silver or the cab. I think JB weld is perfect. It's ready to go, just waiting for me to get my courage together to actually solder the bezel onto the setting.... roar
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