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Lapidary / Gemstone Community Forum
December 11, 2018, 06:45:03 pm
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What to use to back a cab?

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Author Topic: What to use to back a cab?  (Read 2024 times)
fetaby
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« Reply #45 on: November 17, 2014, 09:23:00 pm »

One thing that may help us understand your dilemma is your other plans on this project.  Full bezel ?  Partial Bezel?  Open back, closed back?   Stone dimensions? 

If the piece is going to be bezeled completely, I'm not sure a paper backing wouldn't be sufficient.  Just choose one that is archival quality, acid/lignen free. 

Or if you do want to lift one end of the stone, perhaps one of the newer jewelry clays/epoxies could work?  Apoxie Sculpt or the new Ceralun clay from Swarovski?
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finegemdesigns
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« Reply #46 on: November 18, 2014, 12:37:55 am »

Paper? What happens when your client wears the piece in the shower or it gets wet in the rain?
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legendarygranite
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« Reply #47 on: November 18, 2014, 06:49:59 am »

Colored epoxy. I would use flowing epoxy, just make a dam with tape..
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fetaby
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« Reply #48 on: November 18, 2014, 09:27:23 pm »

Paper? What happens when your client wears the piece in the shower or it gets wet in the rain?

If it's sandwiched between a full silver backing and a well bezeled cab water shouldn't be able to reach it.
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mdfa.ca
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« Reply #49 on: November 19, 2014, 06:51:17 am »

I think making a water tight setting is pretty much impossible without a sealant of some kind. This cab is also slightly crooked so no, that won't work. The irregularity of the cab also explains the need to "shimmy" one end of the cab. Honestly, it if were my cab, yes, I would most likely make a doublet out of it. It is going to be a full backing and has been cut last night. I'll try and post some photos as I go. And I pretty much made up my mind to go with JB Weld and black nail polish. The original wasn't really dark enough when cured (rather light-grey) and, because it's basically fluid you have to eye-ball the amounts. This resulted in slightly incorrect proportions and a couple of soft, sticky spots that refuse to cure. The white one cured perfectly ;-)

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mdfa.ca
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« Reply #50 on: November 19, 2014, 10:34:35 am »

I have another question but I'm not sure if I should start a new thread? Well, here goes. Here is the cab:

And here is the design I came up for this cab.


the lines on the setting are natural extensions of the rutile needles in the cab. And here is the question:  I want those lines to be engraved/etched into the silver (using sterling sheet, 22 g) but I'm not sure how to do this? I want clean lines and they will vary in thickness. There will also be 2-3 very thin lines grouped together to simulate the look of the inclusions. So I think stamping is out of the question.

Any suggestions on how to best achieve this effect?

M


* photo 1.JPG (590.39 KB, 1632x1224 - viewed 8 times.)

* AmandaK-OptionB.jpg (56.37 KB, 422x502 - viewed 7 times.)
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mdfa.ca
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« Reply #51 on: November 19, 2014, 10:36:19 am »

I am really having a technically challenging day today. Why are my images not showing up???
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« Reply #52 on: December 02, 2014, 07:02:02 pm »

This project certainly seems to be testing and stretching my abilities. I have another question: how do you handle setting irregular cabs. I don't mean irregular in shape but irregular in the height of the edges of the dome. Here are some pictures. This is a small shield shape.

Here is the view along the long side:

The pointed end of the shield is to the left, the tapered to the right. As you can see, the dome on the left (so bottom of the cab once set) is coming down a lot lower than the other side. But that's not all. Here is the look on the tapered end:


On the bottom left there is a chunk missing. That is not an issue as the insert I created will actually compensate and cradle that. But, if you look closely, you will notice the tapered end of the cab is not even either. It is lower on the right side than the left.

So, how do you set this to make it look straight? Again, I can compensate a bit with the insert, but it is still not as even as I would like it and is significantly lower on the bottom (pointed end) of the cab. Should I file the bezel edge lower on that side so once it's pressed against the cab, it hopefully looks a bit more even with the rest of it?

I've never done anything like this so I'm really lost. I guess I should look at the cabs I set really closely next time LOL.


* AmandaK-ProfLong-cab2.jpg (32.99 KB, 642x277 - viewed 7 times.)

* AmandaK-ThickEnd-cab3.jpg (21.08 KB, 536x222 - viewed 9 times.)
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PhilNM
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« Reply #53 on: December 02, 2014, 09:01:32 pm »

Who says they have to be perfectly even? Artistic license says anything the artist likes, goes....  We routinely set uneven cabs. Actually,  almost all of our hand done, free form turquoise cabs are uneven to save on material and enhance the character of the stone.

That said, you could recut the bezel, or even smooth and level out the back of the cab if you wanted. Lots of cabs are made so that the smith making the jewelry can do the final shaping and bezelling.  And usually, (unless it's wirewrap) an uneven cab is compensated for in the bedding when it's put in it's final setting.

Cutting lines in silver? Think engraving, Dremel tool.

Oh... pics didn't make it.
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mdfa.ca
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« Reply #54 on: December 03, 2014, 08:20:51 am »

I don't understand what I'm doing wrong with the pictures. I'm adding them the same way I did in a previous message and I think I'm following the instructions. Hmmm. Well, no matter, you seemed to have understood what I mean, Phil.

OK, I get the artistic thing, but I also have the other side of the brain doing the perfectionism thing. It's always a struggle between the two LOL.

And yes, I did engrave the setting, thank you. I will post a photo, as soon as I figure out how LOL.
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« Reply #55 on: December 03, 2014, 08:36:32 am »

It seems my images only show up if I attach them to the message itself instead of linking to them.
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PhilNM
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« Reply #56 on: December 03, 2014, 07:20:22 pm »

It seems my images only show up if I attach them to the message itself instead of linking to them.


links only work if the photo is stored somewhere on the net, not your computer...


You also said:
OK, I get the artistic thing, but I also have the other side of the brain doing the perfectionism thing. It's always a struggle between the two LOL.


Perfection in jewelry is never as interesting as imperfect jewelry. Maybe learn to love the eccentric rather than the boring....
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« Reply #57 on: December 03, 2014, 08:03:41 pm »

I'm learning, I'm learning, Phil. It comes from years of doing super-realistic art in pencil.  And the photos are on photobucket but the linking just doesn't seem to work for me.
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PhilNM
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« Reply #58 on: December 03, 2014, 09:51:32 pm »

This is how I do it.... I cut and paste the IMG link from photobucket directly into my message

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mdfa.ca
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« Reply #59 on: December 04, 2014, 08:26:03 am »

Trying an experiment:
http://s37.photobucket.com/user/mdfa/media/Canttrian-nologo.jpg.html
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