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December 11, 2018, 06:47:29 pm
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Can't quite figure out corners for bezels? Help....

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Author Topic: Can't quite figure out corners for bezels? Help....  (Read 1269 times)
Bentiron
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« Reply #15 on: June 25, 2014, 02:03:47 pm »

 It sounds like you want to make a whole new setting for the stone and there is no real need for that, as suggested you can raise the stone or as I suggested lower the bezel, this is a good time to stretch your skills and experiment a little and see which method works, either will get rid of the puckers at the corner. Give it try and have fun doing it, that's and order yippie
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Helene
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« Reply #16 on: June 25, 2014, 06:31:27 pm »

I like the  silver reflective mylar film tip for transparent stones.  Thanks.

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Bentiron
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« Reply #17 on: June 26, 2014, 03:36:39 pm »

Reflective mylar comes in every potato chip bag LOL dunno
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Helene
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« Reply #18 on: June 26, 2014, 04:44:27 pm »

 saved8, all you have to do is lick the bag and it's ready to use.
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Carol M
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« Reply #19 on: June 26, 2014, 05:19:35 pm »

Reflective mylar comes in every potato chip bag LOL dunno

Potato Chip Bags eh!!!!
Now THAT'S an awesome bit of news.  I never realized that that would work.  Way to go Bent!!! You're my new hero!!! yippie
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Ciao,
Carol M
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Cowboy
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« Reply #20 on: June 26, 2014, 10:02:54 pm »

>If you don't want to file the bezel, you can always raise the stone.  . . . .  I've also known people to use sawdust to raise the stone.<



I'm one of those people who use sawdust to raise a cab to exactly the right level. I like sawdust rather than cardboard or other backers because sawdust is infinitely adjustable, and very quickly. I generally fill the bezel cup about level with loosely packed sawdust. I find that is usually the right amount of sawdust to sink a standard-thickness cabochon  into the cup just the right amount so that the bezel holds the stone down, without sticking up so high that you get the sort of bezel puckers seen in Billyazprospector's photos at the beginning of this thread. I concur that they were partly caused by a stone with severe beveling, set way too low in the bezel.

I push the cab down into the sawdust bed rather firmly, until I can feel the cab pushing back. What's really happening, of course, is that pushing down the cab against a bed of sawdust compresses the sawdust, and  the sawdust actually becomes springy under compression, and the sawdust pushes back against the cab. This springiness is very helpful in achieving a firmly-set cabochon once you roll the bezel around the cab. The sawdust pushing back under compression prevents the cab from rocking at all in the bezel. That probably sounds hard to believe, since the sawdust is theoretically soft, but it becomes anything but soft when you compress it.

I use rather fine sawdust, that I swept up after sanding a hardwood floor (oak I think) many years ago. A couple cups of sawdust has lasted me well over twenty years, and I'm only half through it.

When you press the cab into the sawdust and examine the depth, it's very easy to make adjustments. If you want the cab to set up higher, turn it upside down, gently tap the back of the bezel cup, and the cab will usually fall out, leaving the slightly compressed sawdust in the cup. Just add a bit of sawdust and try the fit again. If the cab sits up too high in the cup, use your fingernail or tweezers (depending on how big a bezel cup you're dealing with, and simply rake out a bit, fluff the remainder around to spread it uniformly again, and then press your cab into place again.

I prefer the sawdust for two reasons, over cardboard or plastic layers: 1. The quick and infinite adjustability, and 2) the tendency of the sawdust to push back, anchoring the stone under the bezel with slight tension.
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Helene
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« Reply #21 on: June 26, 2014, 11:01:12 pm »

You explained that well Cowboy.  billyazprospector started this post, but I think may of us got lots of good info.  I will try the sawdust for opaque stones and mylar for translucent stones.  Cutting and filing CD disks for backing is a nascence.  Lot of old timers used leather to raise stones.  I've tried it and it works fine. 
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Cowboy
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« Reply #22 on: June 27, 2014, 12:38:42 am »

You explained that well Cowboy.  billyazprospector started this post, but I think may of us got lots of good info.  I will try the sawdust for opaque stones and mylar for translucent stones.  Cutting and filing CD disks for backing is a nascence.  Lot of old timers used leather to raise stones.  I've tried it and it works fine. 

I suspect that leather would work much like sawdust, in terms of the compressibility. You just need to find leather that is exactly the right thickness, since it's not adjustable. That's where sawdust really shines.

If you need to insert a colored or reflective backing  for a translucent or transparent cab (or just one with a hole in it) it's easy enough to insert the backing between the stone and the sawdust, or between the stone and the leather or cardboard. That way you still get the benefit of the compressibility of the leather or sawdust.

 . . . and back to the original subject of this thread, I'm currently working on a pillbox with a rectangular cab with very sharp square corners. I plan to photograph my bezeling process when I'm ready to set the cab, and I'll post the photos here.
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Bentiron
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« Reply #23 on: June 27, 2014, 04:24:15 pm »

There is just one problem with using the organics......they can and do develop, how to put it kindly, yes, bad odors after awhile. I knew a number folks that used the sawdust method and had jewelry returned to them to get rid of the, as one customer put it, stench from her bracelet. Yes, she wore it everywhere, shower, swimming, gardening, cooking, so it did smell really bad and was growing shiitake mushrooms, well almost, but he did fix it with a lower bezel and no other backing for the stone. One of the reasons he used sawdust was he used very thin silver for the backing plate and it was often uneven and rippled and was afraid of cracking the stone when he pushed the bezel tight around the turquoise. Turquoise sometime being softer than some stones this is very possible so I suggested that he back his cabs with one of the common black epoxy backers and use a gauge heavier silver. I also suggested that he spend a little more time on the bezel and adjust it to the individual stone's height, not all stones are identical and it would be better is he would just learn how to scribe the height of the stone on the inside of the bezel wire and trim it accordingly. This would end the stench problem with organic material under the stone.
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billyazprospector
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« Reply #24 on: June 28, 2014, 07:18:56 pm »

THANKS! I appreciate everyone's input on this. I made it down to the local jewelry supply shop and picked up some 20 gauge silver sheet and a smaller but thicker gauge bezel.  I think it came out alright but again would appreciate any critiques. My own would be to make the stone a little more symmetrical, but any others? Thanks again -billy
 
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« Reply #25 on: June 28, 2014, 07:36:16 pm »

You done good.  It looks clean and the stones looks secure. 
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Hummingbirdstones
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« Reply #26 on: June 28, 2014, 09:51:30 pm »

Billy, that's a thousand percent better!  Good job.  I would agree with your comment about the stone being more symmetrical, but I think it really looks good now.   yes
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Robin

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« Reply #27 on: June 28, 2014, 10:43:20 pm »

Success!!!!! Thanks for starting this thread too, it has been very informative.  :)
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Carol M
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« Reply #28 on: June 28, 2014, 10:54:42 pm »

WAY BETTER, Billy!!!     ura
You might give a little more attention to the upper left corner and smooth it a tiny bit but I'm being 'nit-picky' 
This is LIGHTYEARS better. yes
Well done!!!! party2
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Ciao,
Carol M
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"Mistakes are simply a form of practice!"
"People who never make mistakes.....probably never do anything!"

Charles
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« Reply #29 on: June 29, 2014, 04:28:58 am »

Billy, looks many times better. I think you've got it.
Thanks for this thread, I've really learned alot from this.
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