General information about the Site

This lapidary and jewelry design community forum is dedicated to the novice, more experienced, and expert lapidaries and jewelry designers.

Forum cabochon in the Spotlight

Bob ( bobby1 ) shared this unknown druzy

Forum Jewelry Design in the Spotlight

John shared this beautiful pair of amethyst cufflinks

Forum Jewelry Design in the Spotlight

Mick shared this beautiful Malachite Wrasse carving

Intarsias / Composites / Bead Making in the Spotlight

Kent shared this really nice Imperial Jasper pendant

Lapidary Related and Forum Member Shop Links

Brian Ababurko Silversmithing Classes / Rock Rollers Club

Dons Lapidary Arts

Idaho Rock Shop

Rare Rocks and Gems

Coyote Rainbow

Lightninghorse

Rocky Treasures

Talking Rocks

Fine Gem Designs

Idaho Rockman

Fine Woodwork and Lapidary

Darkstar Jewelry

DLC Gems

Teton Art Gallery

Art Cut Gems

Woman With A Torch

Lapidary Buy and Sell (Facebook Group)

Lapidary (Facebook Group)

Lapidary Equipment Marketplace (Facebook Group)


Lapidary / Gemstone Community Forum
December 10, 2018, 07:52:28 am
Welcome, Guest. Please login or register.

Login with username, password and session length
News:
 
  Home Help Search Login Register  

Can't quite figure out corners for bezels? Help....

Pages: 1 2 3 [All]   Go Down
  Print  
Author Topic: Can't quite figure out corners for bezels? Help....  (Read 1269 times)
billyazprospector
Jr. Member
**
Offline Offline

Gender: Male
Posts: 75


« on: June 23, 2014, 07:44:43 pm »

So, I recently decided I would try my hand at doing some pendant settings with my stones and I cannot get the corners down? What am I doing wrong? A little harder then just circles....


Report Spam   Logged

Helene
Hero Member
*****
Offline Offline

Gender: Female
Posts: 2007



WWW
« Reply #1 on: June 23, 2014, 08:48:47 pm »

Doing bezels can be tricky.  Below are tips that I find are helpful.

1.  Make sure bezel is pure silver (it's softer)
2.  If bezel is too high it will be difficult to bend over the stone.  It needs to be high enough to hold the stone securely, but not too much more. When it is too high the metal will not be able to compress enough and has nowhere to go but crinkle.

3.  Use your bezel pusher by rocking from the bottom up.   You do this a little at a time.  Don't work in one spot but move to opposite sides of the stone a bit at a time, this way you do not get those kinks, especially in the corner.

4.  Sharp edges are the hardest, so be careful with them.  On your piece I would have started at the three corners working them over the stone slowly.  Sometimes I even file the outside of the bezel at the corners slightly thinner so it will bend easier over those sharp corners.  Remember be careful with the filing.  Light touch.  You don't want to file too thin.

I think you are on the right track.  It takes practice.  The top left corner looks like it can be fixed easily with a little bit of work.  I would try try to push the bezel out a bit on the right and bottom.  I think you could practice on this piece a bit more and you might end up being pleased with the results.

I hope this helps.  I know there are many tutorials online that will help and other members with their tips.
Report Spam   Logged

bobby1
Hero Member
*****
Offline Offline

Gender: Male
Posts: 3606


« Reply #2 on: June 23, 2014, 08:51:17 pm »

I use a bezel rocker to set all of my bezel set stones. I can't get the appropriate pressure with a burnisher. What you are doing is  starting in the middle of the bezel and pushing towards the corner and the excess metal bunches up there. Start at the center of the corner and push the metal away from the corner towards the center of the side bezels. Go back to the center of the corner and push the metal in the opposite direction  toward the other side bezel. Then start pushing the center of the side bezels down slightly. Do the same on all the sides. go back and do the corner pushes, then back to the sides.
In each sequence only push the bezel down about 1/4 of the way. On the next round push the various areas about 1/4 of the way, next 1/4 and finally all the way down. The concentration is to always be pushing the excess metal away from the corners.
A lot of people cut a slot in the corner because they don't understand how to push the metal away from the corners. I think it doesn't look good to have the cuts in the corners.
Bob
Report Spam   Logged

Helene
Hero Member
*****
Offline Offline

Gender: Female
Posts: 2007



WWW
« Reply #3 on: June 23, 2014, 08:55:07 pm »

Thanks Bob you explained it much better.
Report Spam   Logged

lopacki
Full Member
***
Offline Offline

Gender: Male
Posts: 176



« Reply #4 on: June 24, 2014, 10:16:52 am »

Billy,
It looks to me that you are not making your bezel first and then soldering it to your back plate. If so this is the main problem. I always make all of my bezels around all of the stones prior to doing any soldering.

I have attached an image of a 33 stone row bracelet I made sometime in the late eighties or early nineties, on this piece I made a form for all of the bezels and also a template for the cabs, the bracelet was made first flat without the bezels after bending and shaping all of the bezels were then soldered in place.

Hope this helps you out.

All my best ........... Danny


* multi.jpg (49.86 KB, 681x600 - viewed 8 times.)
Report Spam   Logged
Carol M
Hero Member
*****
Offline Offline

Gender: Female
Posts: 1028



« Reply #5 on: June 24, 2014, 11:17:38 am »

Hi Billy,
Danny's image of his bezel's is, BTW, an awesome job of bezel setting, but also serves as a good example of another thing that I'd definitely try.

When I look at your bezel height, and the curve of the cab, I know you'd find it WAY easier, and less 'clumpy' if your bezel were shorter [less high up the side].  It's hard to tell scale from the image but it looks like you could have made the whole bezel 0.5mm or 1mm shorter.

This may not sound like much but if you think about it, the higher the silver goes above the girdle, the more distance it has to travel to fold over the cab, and the more silver you have to 'find a home for'.

I'm becoming increasing impressed by how little metal is needed to secure a stone smoothly.

Some people [like Lexi Erickson even do designs that are part bezel and part prong settings (especially when there's a ragged edge detail she likes) and they look great].
http://www.interweavestore.com/metalsmith-essentials-setting-stones-with-bezels


Report Spam   Logged

Ciao,
Carol M
"Pursue Your Passions....."
"Imagine the Possibilities!"
"Mistakes are simply a form of practice!"
"People who never make mistakes.....probably never do anything!"

MrsWTownsend
Guest
« Reply #6 on: June 24, 2014, 01:08:19 pm »

Beautiful stone!  All the answers you need are definitely here; shorter bezel height & work from the corners out are the two biggies.
Report Spam   Logged
Bentiron
Hero Member
*****
Offline Offline

Posts: 4426


« Reply #7 on: June 24, 2014, 04:44:28 pm »

Yeah, start with the corners first, shorter bezel and it will all come out better. You can take the stone out of that one and file that bezel down and fix it and it will look wonderful. Have fun by all means, we  have all been there yes
Report Spam   Logged

billyazprospector
Jr. Member
**
Offline Offline

Gender: Male
Posts: 75


« Reply #8 on: June 24, 2014, 07:09:37 pm »

Thank you ALL for the replies! I didn't even think about a smaller bezel.  I also am trying to remember if my old jewelry teacher told me about starting at the corners first but it was years ago. Anyway I did NOT start at the corners while doing this so for sure that's an issue. I think I will hit up the supply shop this weekend for smaller bezel and give it another once over and try it out! I will let you know how it turns out! Thanks so much all....
Report Spam   Logged

Helene
Hero Member
*****
Offline Offline

Gender: Female
Posts: 2007



WWW
« Reply #9 on: June 24, 2014, 08:09:55 pm »

All you need to do is file the bezel down to the height it needs to be.

I got a lot of information from a book titled Creative Stonesetting.

He even discusses how he alters tools, such as the bezel pusher to work better.  Lots of illustrations to show exactly the height of bezel to stone.

http://www.amazon.com/Creative-Stonesetting-John-Cogswell/dp/1929565224/ref=sr_1_4?s=books&ie=UTF8&qid=1403662076&sr=1-4&keywords=jewelry+settings
Report Spam   Logged

bilquest
Full Member
***
Offline Offline

Gender: Male
Posts: 203



« Reply #10 on: June 24, 2014, 09:19:19 pm »

If you don't want to file the bezel, you can always raise the stone. Trace the stone on a piece of cardboard and cut to shape, then drop the cutout into the bezel cup before the stone. The thickness of the cardboard may demand more than one 'shim' to get the stone where you want it. I've also known people to use sawdust to raise the stone.
Report Spam   Logged
Hummingbirdstones
Hero Member
*****
Offline Offline

Gender: Female
Posts: 1282



WWW
« Reply #11 on: June 25, 2014, 07:42:42 am »

Even better is using the plastic lids from containers (coffee, sour cream, etc.) to make the shims.  Moisture can get in underneath the stone and saw dust and cardboard will eventually deteriorate.
Report Spam   Logged

Robin

" border="0
RockIt2Me
Hero Member
*****
Offline Offline

Gender: Female
Posts: 680


"Rock It 2 Me!"


« Reply #12 on: June 25, 2014, 07:44:18 am »

I save hotel card keys for this purpose.
Report Spam   Logged

Nancie
"Rock It 2 Me"
Be kinder than necessary, for everyone you meet is fighting some kind of battle.   

 Don't take life so seriously...It's not like you're going to get out alive ;-)                                                        



GregHiller
Full Member
***
Offline Offline

Gender: Male
Posts: 185


North of Boston


« Reply #13 on: June 25, 2014, 09:38:07 am »

>If you don't want to file the bezel, you can always raise the stone. Trace the stone on a piece of cardboard and cut to shape, then drop the cutout into the bezel cup before the stone. The thickness of the cardboard may demand more than one 'shim' to get the stone where you want it. I've also known people to use sawdust to raise the stone.<

Rather than cardboard, sawdust or plastic bits, I've had extremely good luck with thick electrical tape.  I'm not even sure it's called this, but I've picked it up at Home Depot.  As a backing it works particularly well because it is somewhat flexible and compressible and sticks to the stone (very convenient).  I put a piece on the back of a stone and cut it to shape with a razor blade or sissors.  You can use more than one layer if you like.  This makes it easy to get a good fit of your stone and less likely for there to be any wobble when the stone is finally in place.

I have recently had a problem with semi-transparent stones.  Here the sliverwork underneath needs to be near perfect and perfectly uniform, easy to accomplish on a flat piece, but very annoying to try and get in the bottom of a cab cup.  I might start using white plastic tape for this when I want the backround to be pure white and reflect back a lot of light.  I've heard some people use old CD's for this, but it seems like a lot more work than just cutting tape with a razor blade. 
Report Spam   Logged

'Relax it's just a freakin' rock (insert name of interest) forum' - immortal words of a 'sage' from the fish forum I used to run

Always interested in trading slabs or rough
dickb
Hero Member
*****
Offline Offline

Gender: Male
Posts: 837



« Reply #14 on: June 25, 2014, 12:32:33 pm »

On transparent stones, you might try silver reflective mylar film that can be bought at craft stores. Just put the mylar first so the light is reflected back through the stone, then add your backfill to bring the stone up to the right height. It works better that CD disks and cuts a lot easier.

Good Luck!

Dickb
Report Spam   Logged

Elegance in Jewelry
69 Retired and Free
GPAA, PLP - Blackhawk G&MC, CVR&MS
Eastern Iowa, Clover SC

Bentiron
Hero Member
*****
Offline Offline

Posts: 4426


« Reply #15 on: June 25, 2014, 02:03:47 pm »

 It sounds like you want to make a whole new setting for the stone and there is no real need for that, as suggested you can raise the stone or as I suggested lower the bezel, this is a good time to stretch your skills and experiment a little and see which method works, either will get rid of the puckers at the corner. Give it try and have fun doing it, that's and order yippie
Report Spam   Logged

Helene
Hero Member
*****
Offline Offline

Gender: Female
Posts: 2007



WWW
« Reply #16 on: June 25, 2014, 06:31:27 pm »

I like the  silver reflective mylar film tip for transparent stones.  Thanks.

Report Spam   Logged

Bentiron
Hero Member
*****
Offline Offline

Posts: 4426


« Reply #17 on: June 26, 2014, 03:36:39 pm »

Reflective mylar comes in every potato chip bag LOL dunno
Report Spam   Logged

Helene
Hero Member
*****
Offline Offline

Gender: Female
Posts: 2007



WWW
« Reply #18 on: June 26, 2014, 04:44:27 pm »

 saved8, all you have to do is lick the bag and it's ready to use.
Report Spam   Logged

Carol M
Hero Member
*****
Offline Offline

Gender: Female
Posts: 1028



« Reply #19 on: June 26, 2014, 05:19:35 pm »

Reflective mylar comes in every potato chip bag LOL dunno

Potato Chip Bags eh!!!!
Now THAT'S an awesome bit of news.  I never realized that that would work.  Way to go Bent!!! You're my new hero!!! yippie
Report Spam   Logged

Ciao,
Carol M
"Pursue Your Passions....."
"Imagine the Possibilities!"
"Mistakes are simply a form of practice!"
"People who never make mistakes.....probably never do anything!"

Cowboy
Hero Member
*****
Offline Offline

Posts: 538



« Reply #20 on: June 26, 2014, 10:02:54 pm »

>If you don't want to file the bezel, you can always raise the stone.  . . . .  I've also known people to use sawdust to raise the stone.<



I'm one of those people who use sawdust to raise a cab to exactly the right level. I like sawdust rather than cardboard or other backers because sawdust is infinitely adjustable, and very quickly. I generally fill the bezel cup about level with loosely packed sawdust. I find that is usually the right amount of sawdust to sink a standard-thickness cabochon  into the cup just the right amount so that the bezel holds the stone down, without sticking up so high that you get the sort of bezel puckers seen in Billyazprospector's photos at the beginning of this thread. I concur that they were partly caused by a stone with severe beveling, set way too low in the bezel.

I push the cab down into the sawdust bed rather firmly, until I can feel the cab pushing back. What's really happening, of course, is that pushing down the cab against a bed of sawdust compresses the sawdust, and  the sawdust actually becomes springy under compression, and the sawdust pushes back against the cab. This springiness is very helpful in achieving a firmly-set cabochon once you roll the bezel around the cab. The sawdust pushing back under compression prevents the cab from rocking at all in the bezel. That probably sounds hard to believe, since the sawdust is theoretically soft, but it becomes anything but soft when you compress it.

I use rather fine sawdust, that I swept up after sanding a hardwood floor (oak I think) many years ago. A couple cups of sawdust has lasted me well over twenty years, and I'm only half through it.

When you press the cab into the sawdust and examine the depth, it's very easy to make adjustments. If you want the cab to set up higher, turn it upside down, gently tap the back of the bezel cup, and the cab will usually fall out, leaving the slightly compressed sawdust in the cup. Just add a bit of sawdust and try the fit again. If the cab sits up too high in the cup, use your fingernail or tweezers (depending on how big a bezel cup you're dealing with, and simply rake out a bit, fluff the remainder around to spread it uniformly again, and then press your cab into place again.

I prefer the sawdust for two reasons, over cardboard or plastic layers: 1. The quick and infinite adjustability, and 2) the tendency of the sawdust to push back, anchoring the stone under the bezel with slight tension.
Report Spam   Logged
Helene
Hero Member
*****
Offline Offline

Gender: Female
Posts: 2007



WWW
« Reply #21 on: June 26, 2014, 11:01:12 pm »

You explained that well Cowboy.  billyazprospector started this post, but I think may of us got lots of good info.  I will try the sawdust for opaque stones and mylar for translucent stones.  Cutting and filing CD disks for backing is a nascence.  Lot of old timers used leather to raise stones.  I've tried it and it works fine. 
Report Spam   Logged

Cowboy
Hero Member
*****
Offline Offline

Posts: 538



« Reply #22 on: June 27, 2014, 12:38:42 am »

You explained that well Cowboy.  billyazprospector started this post, but I think may of us got lots of good info.  I will try the sawdust for opaque stones and mylar for translucent stones.  Cutting and filing CD disks for backing is a nascence.  Lot of old timers used leather to raise stones.  I've tried it and it works fine. 

I suspect that leather would work much like sawdust, in terms of the compressibility. You just need to find leather that is exactly the right thickness, since it's not adjustable. That's where sawdust really shines.

If you need to insert a colored or reflective backing  for a translucent or transparent cab (or just one with a hole in it) it's easy enough to insert the backing between the stone and the sawdust, or between the stone and the leather or cardboard. That way you still get the benefit of the compressibility of the leather or sawdust.

 . . . and back to the original subject of this thread, I'm currently working on a pillbox with a rectangular cab with very sharp square corners. I plan to photograph my bezeling process when I'm ready to set the cab, and I'll post the photos here.
Report Spam   Logged
Bentiron
Hero Member
*****
Offline Offline

Posts: 4426


« Reply #23 on: June 27, 2014, 04:24:15 pm »

There is just one problem with using the organics......they can and do develop, how to put it kindly, yes, bad odors after awhile. I knew a number folks that used the sawdust method and had jewelry returned to them to get rid of the, as one customer put it, stench from her bracelet. Yes, she wore it everywhere, shower, swimming, gardening, cooking, so it did smell really bad and was growing shiitake mushrooms, well almost, but he did fix it with a lower bezel and no other backing for the stone. One of the reasons he used sawdust was he used very thin silver for the backing plate and it was often uneven and rippled and was afraid of cracking the stone when he pushed the bezel tight around the turquoise. Turquoise sometime being softer than some stones this is very possible so I suggested that he back his cabs with one of the common black epoxy backers and use a gauge heavier silver. I also suggested that he spend a little more time on the bezel and adjust it to the individual stone's height, not all stones are identical and it would be better is he would just learn how to scribe the height of the stone on the inside of the bezel wire and trim it accordingly. This would end the stench problem with organic material under the stone.
Report Spam   Logged

billyazprospector
Jr. Member
**
Offline Offline

Gender: Male
Posts: 75


« Reply #24 on: June 28, 2014, 07:18:56 pm »

THANKS! I appreciate everyone's input on this. I made it down to the local jewelry supply shop and picked up some 20 gauge silver sheet and a smaller but thicker gauge bezel.  I think it came out alright but again would appreciate any critiques. My own would be to make the stone a little more symmetrical, but any others? Thanks again -billy
 
Report Spam   Logged

Helene
Hero Member
*****
Offline Offline

Gender: Female
Posts: 2007



WWW
« Reply #25 on: June 28, 2014, 07:36:16 pm »

You done good.  It looks clean and the stones looks secure. 
Report Spam   Logged

Hummingbirdstones
Hero Member
*****
Offline Offline

Gender: Female
Posts: 1282



WWW
« Reply #26 on: June 28, 2014, 09:51:30 pm »

Billy, that's a thousand percent better!  Good job.  I would agree with your comment about the stone being more symmetrical, but I think it really looks good now.   yes
Report Spam   Logged

Robin

" border="0
MrsWTownsend
Guest
« Reply #27 on: June 28, 2014, 10:43:20 pm »

Success!!!!! Thanks for starting this thread too, it has been very informative.  :)
Report Spam   Logged
Carol M
Hero Member
*****
Offline Offline

Gender: Female
Posts: 1028



« Reply #28 on: June 28, 2014, 10:54:42 pm »

WAY BETTER, Billy!!!     ura
You might give a little more attention to the upper left corner and smooth it a tiny bit but I'm being 'nit-picky' 
This is LIGHTYEARS better. yes
Well done!!!! party2
Report Spam   Logged

Ciao,
Carol M
"Pursue Your Passions....."
"Imagine the Possibilities!"
"Mistakes are simply a form of practice!"
"People who never make mistakes.....probably never do anything!"

Charles
Hero Member
*****
Offline Offline

Gender: Male
Posts: 505



« Reply #29 on: June 29, 2014, 04:28:58 am »

Billy, looks many times better. I think you've got it.
Thanks for this thread, I've really learned alot from this.
Report Spam   Logged

Bentiron
Hero Member
*****
Offline Offline

Posts: 4426


« Reply #30 on: June 29, 2014, 07:43:11 pm »

You done good, very good indeed, I think you got it down now,AAA+ yippie
Report Spam   Logged

skystone
Full Member
***
Offline Offline

Posts: 142


« Reply #31 on: July 01, 2014, 12:40:53 am »

Just went through this thread. The "new" pendant looks gtreat. Learning takes time & practice/experimentation. What Cowboy said about the saw dust is  one of the main reasons I use it too. The example B I cited was an "extreme" case & I've never heard of such. Traditionally on silver & Turq. native pieces. The stones were set on corn meal. It's a sacred thing but has the real world advantages Cowboy cited of saw dust. I've been setting stones with sawdust (sometimes corn meal) for 20+ years. I nearly always use 3/16 bezel except on very small pieces like earrings or rings then I'll use 1/8. I use 28 guage too not 30 to me it's too thin after polishing. The dif. in cost is neglegable.
Report Spam   Logged
Cowboy
Hero Member
*****
Offline Offline

Posts: 538



« Reply #32 on: July 04, 2014, 02:01:13 am »

I promised photos of the process for setting a cab with square corners. Here goes.

First, the empty bezel after polishing. You can see that the bezel will require straightening before I set the cab down into it.  No photos of that process, but it's as simple as using tht edge of the cab to push outward gently until the bezel corners are square and the sides are straight. Often, you can achieve this simply by turning the cab upside down, and gently pressing downward to force the sides outward.




Next, I fill the bezel cup with fine sawdust.  With thin cabs, I fill the cup to overflowing with loose sawdust. I use less for a thick cab.



Next, I press the sawdust down with my finger, and push in the bits that stick out the sides.




In the end, this is what I want: a cab that sits into the bezel cup just far enough that the bezel will push over against the sides of the cab, without pushing downward over the top. This prevents the trouble Billyazprospector experienced when he started this thread: you don't want to have to push the bezel over so far that it puckers in the corners, or anywhere else.  Getting the stone just deep enough, but not too deep, is the trick.  If you get it too deep, tap the back or side of the cup while holding it upside down until the cab pops out, then add some more sawdust. If you get it too shallow, remove the cab, remove a bit of the sawdust and try the fit again.  The perfect depth will vary a lot, depending on how the cab sides are tapered.  This is about perfect for this thin cab with a flattish dome:






Next, push the cab down into the sawdust, so that the sawdust compresses and pushes back upward against you. While you hold the cab down, use a bezel pusher to  push the corners inward first. Start right in the corner, and rock the tool outward away from the corner in each direction a small distance.  then move to the opposite corner and do the same. Now do the other two. You'll wind up with all four corners firmly set, and a loose bezel along the sides, like this:



Now, push the cab down against the compressed sawdust again, and set the bezel fully against the sides.  Now you have the perfect situation to avoid loose cabs:  the sawdust is compressed, pushing the cab upward, while the bezel holds it down. this cab is not the least bit loose.



POlish the piece, and you're done:










Report Spam   Logged
Rockrangers
Guest
« Reply #33 on: July 04, 2014, 02:28:50 am »

I enjoy reading and seeing these step by step this group tends to post on turning out such fine designs and thingamajiggers, done in various metals. I envy you guys and gals. Maybe when I retire"dreaming of future" I could find the time and get some hands on training-practice working with metals and the tools required...........plus a bigger workshop :)
Thanks again for posting these threads.
Report Spam   Logged
Carol M
Hero Member
*****
Offline Offline

Gender: Female
Posts: 1028



« Reply #34 on: July 04, 2014, 09:22:40 am »

That is so cool, Cowboy,
Your tutorials are always so clear and 'calming'.  You make it look so easy.  Thank you. yippie

I love square corners and sharp points on cabs.  This works so fabulously on things like little boxes [that will probably stay dry].
My biggest fear, is that I mostly work on jewelry, like rings and things that might get wet. hide

After reading one post about jewelry that got smelly when it got wet, because the jeweler used some natural material to level it.....that was a big eye opener.  I never even thought of that.

How do you deal with square corners on things that might [or will] get wet??  and things where the bezel fits the stone and doesn't need filler?
Report Spam   Logged

Ciao,
Carol M
"Pursue Your Passions....."
"Imagine the Possibilities!"
"Mistakes are simply a form of practice!"
"People who never make mistakes.....probably never do anything!"

skystone
Full Member
***
Offline Offline

Posts: 142


« Reply #35 on: July 04, 2014, 11:52:24 am »

Cowboy;s tute is exactly the same procedure I use. Carol that example of the saw dust geting wet & smelling. Was an extreme example & very possibly more due to the person's hygene than the sawdust. If you read carefully the wearer he said NEVER took it off. If the bezel is set firmly the material under the stone shouldn't actually get much moisture in it. Unless submerged for an extended period of time. The only thing I can think of that most people WOUNLDN"T take off when showering/bathing or swimming. Might be a ring, I certainly don't wear jewelry durring those times. But my wife & I have jewelry I made many years ago 20+ that were made like this & no problem. As I said before traditionally Navajo etc jewelry the stones are set in the same manner with Corn Meal.
Report Spam   Logged
Cowboy
Hero Member
*****
Offline Offline

Posts: 538



« Reply #36 on: July 04, 2014, 11:57:43 am »

That is so cool, Cowboy,
Your tutorials are always so clear and 'calming'.  You make it look so easy.  Thank you. yippie

I love square corners and sharp points on cabs.  This works so fabulously on things like little boxes [that will probably stay dry].
My biggest fear, is that I mostly work on jewelry, like rings and things that might get wet. hide

After reading one post about jewelry that got smelly when it got wet, because the jeweler used some natural material to level it.....that was a big eye opener.  I never even thought of that.

How do you deal with square corners on things that might [or will] get wet??  and things where the bezel fits the stone and doesn't need filler?

If your cab fits in the bezel without any need for filler behind it, the process would be pretty much the same, only it would be a bit harder to get the stone set so that it is tight in the bezel.

I almost never run into a setting where I don't use some sawdust backing. This results from the fact that I cut my cabs with a standard-height bevel on the edges. If the slab is thick enough to make the bevel taller, I cut it to the standard height anyway, and use the extra thickness to shape a higher dome. When I have extra stone to work with, I want that extra stone to show, I don't want to hide it down inside a bezel. I can't remember the last time I set a cabochon without sawdust. If I set a translucent or transparent stone, I use the sawdust, and then a disk of polished silver between the sawdust and the stone, so you don't see the sawdust through the stone.

As for smelly backing, it's a problem I have simply never observed. I wear rings and bracelets with sawdust backing that have been wet numerous times over the twenty years I've been making jewelry, and I've never noticed a bad smell.  I just asked my wife to smell them (my nose is practically useless). She didn't notice any odors at all.  I suspect that smelly backing might be more of a problem with certain woods, maybe, and if you swim in bacteria filled water.  Mine usually only get wet in the rain, or sometimes in the shower, or when I wash my hands, so there's not much bacteria load in the water. Some wood has properties that help fight odors, of course. Sandalwood and cedar come to mind. You might use them if you're concerned about bacteria. I have used oak sawdust exclusively through the years, collected when I sanded the floors in my house. So far so good after twenty years.  This thread is the first time I've ever heard someone suggest that backing a cab resulted in bad smells.

Report Spam   Logged
Carol M
Hero Member
*****
Offline Offline

Gender: Female
Posts: 1028



« Reply #37 on: July 04, 2014, 11:20:28 pm »

Ah....well that's GREAT to know, Cowboy and Skystone.
I don't have any oak sawdust, but I have a neighbor whose a woodworker.  I may ask him to save me some.

Any sawdust you would NOT USE.  I mean any wood's sawdust, that you would NOT USE?
Report Spam   Logged

Ciao,
Carol M
"Pursue Your Passions....."
"Imagine the Possibilities!"
"Mistakes are simply a form of practice!"
"People who never make mistakes.....probably never do anything!"

skystone
Full Member
***
Offline Offline

Posts: 142


« Reply #38 on: July 05, 2014, 12:58:39 pm »

No particular wood I can think of. Walnut maybe as it has it's own oder. I just use what ever saw dust cones frommy band saw or table saw. If table saw I sift it through some sceen to get the larger pieces out.  I just keep it in an old peanut can on my work bench with the plastic lid ready to use any time. It's about the size/consistency of corn meal not supper fine like sanding dust. I've on occasion had to remove a stone after I'd washed the rouge out of the details. I wash in water with a tooth brush & dunk in the water several times in the process. The saw dust really hasn't shown much soaking because the bezel is so tight against the stone. Very little gets in, so I'd think only maybe wearing while swimming & submerged for an extended periode might wet it. I just have never ever found it to be a problem in 20+ years of setting stones & very large stones weth more saw dust area at that LOL remember that some peoples skin type or oily skin & persperation can contribute possibly more to a piece having an odor than any stone backing. That's my suspision in the case BI gave since he said she "never" took the piece in question off.
Report Spam   Logged
Cowboy
Hero Member
*****
Offline Offline

Posts: 538



« Reply #39 on: July 05, 2014, 10:26:01 pm »

Ah....well that's GREAT to know, Cowboy and Skystone.
I don't have any oak sawdust, but I have a neighbor whose a woodworker.  I may ask him to save me some.

Any sawdust you would NOT USE.  I mean any wood's sawdust, that you would NOT USE?

Nope.  I doubt there's a lot of difference.  The only recommendation I would make is that I like finer sawdust best, from floor sanding, rather than sawdust from actually sawing something. The floor sander dust is fluffier, and compresses better. They both work, though.
Report Spam   Logged
Carol M
Hero Member
*****
Offline Offline

Gender: Female
Posts: 1028



« Reply #40 on: July 06, 2014, 11:55:51 am »

Actually, we're having a crew in to take down a rather large Canadian maple tree that's grown [like a 'scrub tree'] on it's own, right beside our shared fence, and if we don't cut it, it'll wreck the fence.  My neighbor wants some of the wood for his fireplace, and we'll have some as well.
I may put a black garbage bag under where they cut it and see if I catch anything.
It may be too coarse though.

Maybe I should take a cup of the finest sawdust and put it in our Vitamix and pulverize it .  bricks Like you do with making flour or ground coffee.
Gives new meaning to 'add fiber to your smoothie. [giggle] ura
Report Spam   Logged

Ciao,
Carol M
"Pursue Your Passions....."
"Imagine the Possibilities!"
"Mistakes are simply a form of practice!"
"People who never make mistakes.....probably never do anything!"

gemfeller
Hero Member
*****
Offline Offline

Posts: 621



WWW
« Reply #41 on: July 06, 2014, 01:39:45 pm »

I used to use sawdust and several other materials to raise cabs in closed-back settings.  But I was on deadline with a project one night and my sawdust box was empty.  I hurriedly looked for a substitute and noticed this thin plastic foam packing material.  It compresses like sawdust and provides "spring" against the bezel.  It doesn't get smelly and lasts a long, long time.  It's easy to find since it's widely used and it's free.  Just trim to size and use as many layers as needed.

Report Spam   Logged

Cowboy
Hero Member
*****
Offline Offline

Posts: 538



« Reply #42 on: July 06, 2014, 10:58:50 pm »

I used to use sawdust and several other materials to raise cabs in closed-back settings.  But I was on deadline with a project one night and my sawdust box was empty.  I hurriedly looked for a substitute and noticed this thin plastic foam packing material.  It compresses like sawdust and provides "spring" against the bezel.  It doesn't get smelly and lasts a long, long time.  It's easy to find since it's widely used and it's free.  Just trim to size and use as many layers as needed.



That's a great idea!  That stuff does seem to have about the right amount of compression.
Report Spam   Logged
Pages: 1 2 3 [All]   Go Up
  Print  
 
Jump to:  

Bookmark this site! | Upgrade This Forum
SMF For Free - Create your own Forum | Buy traffic for your forum/website

Powered by SMF | SMF © 2016, Simple Machines
Privacy Policy