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Shellac mixture for transfer

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Author Topic: Shellac mixture for transfer  (Read 431 times)
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« on: June 25, 2014, 03:32:10 pm »

The only use I've heard of for using dissolved shellac in transfers is to strengthen the bond of regular dop wax to the stone.  Dissolved shellac, painted onto the stone and allowed to dry, makes the bond stronger.  I made my solution out of a few chips of high-strength faceter's dop wax in denatured alcohol. Shellac in the wax dissolved leaving a little residue in the bottom of the container.  I used only the clear alcohol with shellac and my transfer dopping was much stronger using that method.  Let the alcohol solution dry completely before re-dopping.

I much prefer using 5-min epoxy.  I mix mine on little torn sheets of aluminum foil using a flat toothpick.  After gluing the transfer I set the block aside along with the left-over epoxy on the foil.  That's my "control."  When epoxy on the foil has truly hardened (it often takes much longer than 5 min.) I know the transfer epoxy is also hardened. 

I use heat to easily separate the original dop.  I grasp the new dop with my fingers around the stone to detect any heating, and gently hold the old dop with pliers a couple of inches from the stone.  I use an alcohol lamp to heat the old dop about an inch away from the glue bond while very gently exerting pressure on it with the pliers.  It usually takes only a few seconds for the old join to loosen and no heat reaches the new join.  After cutting the table I use the same method to remove the stone by holding the dop with pliers and placing a soft folded cloth next to the alcohol lamp.  I heat the dop and push the stone away from the glue joint with tweezers, letting it fall gently onto the cloth.  Any residual epoxy left on the stone and dops is removed overnight in an acetone bath. 
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