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Not the first time this has happened / pinning bezel tape

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Author Topic: Not the first time this has happened / pinning bezel tape  (Read 747 times)
Taogem
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« on: March 27, 2009, 09:13:32 pm »

This is not the first time this has happened. Shape the bezel tape and hold it in place the best I can trying to keep it the same desired shape to the stone I used.

After I get it soldered it does not match.

Even the slightest variation results in a non matching setting.

Any suggestions on how to make sure the bezel tape is fit to the backing exactly as desired prior to soldering so as not to have these little surprises?

Maybe it is like everything else, just takes practice.



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Steel and Stone
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« Reply #1 on: March 27, 2009, 09:55:24 pm »

George,

In past experience it is very hard to keep the shape while you are pinning it down like that. The slightest side pressure and as soon as you stick the heat to it it will move (and a lot of times before you stick the heat to it) All you need to do is bump it just a little.. I try to make sure the backing is flat as possible so the bezel and the backing have contact.
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bobby1
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« Reply #2 on: March 28, 2009, 06:50:00 pm »

I just flatten the backing or flex it to match the bezel wire. I then lay it on the backing and solder it down. I never use anything to hold it down. If you are heating the backing unevenly it will warp and there will be a gap under the bezel wire. I solder on a fire brick or Solderite pad. I heat a spot on the fire brick or soldering pad about the size of the backing. I turn the torch up real hot and heat the spot to a bright red color and then use the solder pick to slide the backing with the bezel wire on it over the hot spot. This heats the backing up evenly as I use the torch (turned down significantly after blasting the fire brick!!!) to finish the heating and soldering activities from the top.
Bob
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Taogem
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« Reply #3 on: March 28, 2009, 07:01:28 pm »

I just flatten the backing or flex it to match the bezel wire. I then lay it on the backing and solder it down. I never use anything to hold it down.

I remember well you showing that in detail.. The problem I have with larger settings like this (45 x 35) is that I just cant seem to get the entire bezel flat to a large backing. Smaller setting with small area backings are easy. I just cant seem to get the bezel to stay flat to the backing all the way around a larger setting without actually having it slightly pressed down. No matter how I try to bend by hand or flatten on my steel plate.

I feel sorta silly because after thinking about it now.. Got to thinking that if I set the bezel tape down on the backing with the stone in it. Then simply trace the outline of the bezel to the backing. That way I know the exact shape and if I need to press a little like this, I will know how the final position of the bezel tape should be prior to soldering.

Maybe that will do the trick!

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« Reply #4 on: March 28, 2009, 11:47:49 pm »

George,
From your picture I notice that you are soldering on a piece of charcoal block that has a very uneven surface.
This might be the cause of some of your problems. The hot metal sags into the depressions away from your bezel wire.
I always solder on as smooth of a surface as I can get. Generally a charcoal block is not very flat after it gets used a bit.
Bob
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Bluesssman
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« Reply #5 on: March 28, 2009, 11:51:38 pm »

George, after I have soldered the bezel closed and made sure it fits will to the stone, I then take some 500 grit sand paper on a piece of glass and changing finger positions often sand the bottom of the bezel so it is flat. Hope this helps...


Gary
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Taogem
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« Reply #6 on: March 29, 2009, 12:10:06 am »

Thanks all, and yes also to the sanding of the bezel on flat surface with sandpaper..

Using the pieces of wire curved around from front to back with just enough pressure to press the flat bezel to the slightly uneven backing worked well. Just was trying to figure out how to know that the bezel maintained it's desired shape as I set it up for soldering.

Think the plan of drawing an outline of the bezel with stone inside placed on the backing prior to soldering will simply let me use the wires as I did and shape the outline of the bezel tape to the marked outline made on the backing.

I will let ya know how it works out next try.

Guess will cut a different stone to fit this setting. I don't want to reshape the Morrisonite stone to fit it.
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Lavenderfish
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« Reply #7 on: March 29, 2009, 09:33:47 am »

Sorry you're having this problem Tao. I don't have any suggestions on what to do about it that the others haven't already covered, but did want to say I think the stone is really nice!

I've had to recut cabs for an already prepared bezel plenty of times as I don't always like how the stone looks in the setting when it's all done (like the Nouveaux pendant a few weeks ago). It's a fun challenge & test of your cutting skills  :)



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