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March 21, 2019, 02:00:05 am
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Restoration projects.

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Author Topic: Restoration projects.  (Read 2155 times)
dickb
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« Reply #60 on: November 21, 2013, 02:10:47 pm »

My plans are to use it for roughing out precuts. I probably will put a 100 grit on the left side and a 180 to 220 on the right. That way all the coarse grits and trimmings will stay out of the finish machine. It has a 1/3 HP motor that works well, but I may bump that up to 1/2 HP if it's not up to the job. I have it apart now and it wasn't rusted up so it may just need paint and plumbing to get it working.

I'll post the finished project after I get it done.

Dickb
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« Reply #61 on: November 21, 2013, 02:32:11 pm »

1/3 HP should be more than enough to spin 2 wheels. When I finish that Beacon Star machine it will have 5 - 1/2" thick carving wheels on it. I'm only going to use a 1/4 HP motor to spin it.
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« Reply #62 on: November 25, 2013, 09:52:58 pm »

My new W.C.Antoine slab grabber came today, along with several facetor pieces. I'll post the slab grabber tomorrow, but for tonight it's pics of the facetor pieces.

An MDR transfer jig.


A 45 Deg. MDR Table dop holder.


Unknown brand of transfer jig.


Another unknown brand of transfer jig.


And some misc. parts.
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« Reply #63 on: November 26, 2013, 12:18:32 pm »

As promised, pics of 2 versions of the W.C. Antoine slab grabber.  The original version is on the left. The improved version on the right was meant to hold larger rocks and fit larger saws.



Side view showing heavier movable jaw mount. The original had 1 mounting bolt. The improved had 2 for additional strength.



Back view. Note the 4 screw holes in the back of the improved version.



The reason for those 4 holes was to mount a casting which clamps in the jaws of larger saws.



And last but not least. Many people who are lucky enough to own one of these clamps aren't aware that the clamp can be used for holding very small pieces as well. By removing the top and bottom front jaws, and using only the mounting screws, you have a small slab grabber.

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« Reply #64 on: December 02, 2013, 09:16:33 pm »

I just got all new stainless steel screws for both slab grabbers. Got 1/2", 3/4" and 1" lengths. With a variety of lengths I should be able to clamp up just about anything. Also ran a tap through all of the threaded holes to clean them up.
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« Reply #65 on: December 12, 2013, 11:18:24 pm »

Thanks for the update. Every bit of knowledge gets filed away for future use. Often go back to threads to see if more has been added.
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« Reply #66 on: December 13, 2013, 02:58:02 pm »

Sorry for no recent updates. I've been having a fight with old Mr. Pneumonia for the last week, and still not up to 100%. As soon as I'm feeling better, I'll finish tearing the little machine down, and post a pre cleanup pic of all of the parts.
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« Reply #67 on: December 20, 2018, 01:08:54 am »

For my wife,the rockhound in the family, I'm redoing a Frantom arbor. I found it at a tailgate for $40. 2 wheels and a disc at the end.So far I've found it to be a bit of struggle with the corroded aluminum. It has to be disassembled  to remove the SC wheels. The first flange came off but the next three were stubborn.  The one on the fixed end never did come off ,one of the set screws was really seized. I gave the second flange a tap and missed the hub, opps, a mistake with cast aluminum and lost a piece of the flange. I ended up breaking out the torch and heating the next two. They dropped off then.  Since we are switching to diamond, they are only spacers. Speaking of spacers, the center spacer between the wheels was too long after switching to 2" from 1 1/2" wheels. Since it's thin aluminum tubing, I was able to cut it with a tubing cutter. Of course the water valves were plugged. With them apart I put in new O-rings.

I hope my challenges will help someone else working on a Frantom.

I've painted it Sapphire Blue.
Installed new bearings, which BTW are heavy four bolt flange. The Google images ones only have two bolt flanges. Older model?
I'm powering it with a 1/2hp pump motor. Of course, it had to be steeped down . When you use a switch, use the more expensive 20 amp for electric motors. The cheap light switches will arc and weld themselves on. Adapting a pump motor is whole another story.
I'll mount everything on a piece of plywood

 
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« Reply #68 on: December 20, 2018, 02:28:36 am »

For my wife,the rockhound in the family, I'm redoing a Frantom arbor. I found it at a tailgate for $40. 2 wheels and a disc at the end.So far I've found it to be a bit of struggle with the corroded aluminum. It has to be disassembled  to remove the SC wheels. The first flange came off but the next three were stubborn.  The one on the fixed end never did come off ,one of the set screws was really seized. I gave the second flange a tap and missed the hub, opps, a mistake with cast aluminum and lost a piece of the flange. I ended up breaking out the torch and heating the next two. They dropped off then.  Since we are switching to diamond, they are only spacers. Speaking of spacers, the center spacer between the wheels was too long after switching to 2" from 1 1/2" wheels. Since it's thin aluminum tubing, I was able to cut it with a tubing cutter. Of course the water valves were plugged. With them apart I put in new O-rings.

I hope my challenges will help someone else working on a Frantom.

I've painted it Sapphire Blue.
Installed new bearings, which BTW are heavy four bolt flange. The Google images ones only have two bolt flanges. Older model?
I'm powering it with a 1/2hp pump motor. Of course, it had to be steeped down . When you use a switch, use the more expensive 20 amp for electric motors. The cheap light switches will arc and weld themselves on. Adapting a pump motor is whole another story.
I'll mount everything on a piece of plywood

 

Sounds like you got it all handled ok !

Any chance you would like to share a pic of the new paint ?  Nothing like freshly painted refurbished equipment .. !    dancer5
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« Reply #69 on: December 20, 2018, 10:54:40 am »

Yes , I know a pretty machine is eye candy, Sapphire Blue, no less. You know that wall of paint cards, I go in thinking something conservative, like gray, but end up picking colourful.  But, sorry, I'm an old phart with very limited computer skills. I have been told I have writing skills, unusual in this day and age. So I guess it balances.

I don't use the machines, the wife is the rockhound, I just fix them. I'm a retired millwright who enjoys fixing old machinery. I do use the metal working and wood working machines that I fix. With expensive hobbies like those , I need all the brownie points I can garner.


I forgot to add a couple of millwrighting tips, besides using heat to expand and free hubs.
- wood turners, machine shops and plumbers use emery clothe strips to polish round things. You take 2' length of it and pretend you are a shoe shine boy and buff. I use 120grit.
-the heavy corrosion inside the hubs meant putting together would be difficult. I used a 6" x1/4" rod with the end hacksawed an inch chucked in a drill motor with a 3" piece of the emery clothe strip folded over, I have 2" wide, in the slot. Wrapped, this makes a flap wheel for inside the hubs.
-if you attack rusted threads with a powered fine wire wheel they come off easy. Get into the crack between the thread and the nut. Then spray with your favourite flavor of penetrant.

Of course everything gets a good coat of Nevr-Sneeze, it's good karma ,the next guy will bless you.

When I assembled the parts, I asked questions here, about wheel RPM. Thank You. The next lapidary machines on the list are a 24" slab saw and another arbor. I have questions about sawing rock but that's another post. See you in Quartsite



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