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December 10, 2018, 09:56:51 pm
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Can you do larger 'faceting' of regular stones with an Ameritool FlatLap??

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Author Topic: Can you do larger 'faceting' of regular stones with an Ameritool FlatLap??  (Read 1335 times)
kennyg
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« Reply #15 on: August 21, 2013, 11:38:41 am »

No I didn't do this I found it in a thread by Mark topic chatoyant stones posted in2009. Great topic beautiful photos
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hulagrub
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« Reply #16 on: August 21, 2013, 04:58:58 pm »

Carol, I can't find the pix on our PC. Will try and find it here.
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« Reply #17 on: August 21, 2013, 08:56:21 pm »

You guys all know the Ameritool uses the softer (I call them semi-rigid as the name explains them I think) diamond sanding discs right? Will it still work with those or would one have to buy all hard discs? I'm thinking of the drag the sanding discs put on some material - problem yay/nay?

Also - y'all must have some better Ameritools than mine as mine vibrates too much to use the gadgets shown in the video Debbie posted. Nowhere near as bad as an Inland (or mine Inland at least) but still enough to make me wish I had a graves.
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Carol M
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« Reply #18 on: August 21, 2013, 09:07:05 pm »

You guys all know the Ameritool uses the softer (I call them semi-rigid as the name explains them I think) diamond sanding discs right? Will it still work with those or would one have to buy all hard discs? I'm thinking of the drag the sanding discs put on some material - problem yay/nay?

Also - y'all must have some better Ameritools than mine as mine vibrates too much to use the gadgets shown in the video Debbie posted. Nowhere near as bad as an Inland (or mine Inland at least) but still enough to make me wish I had a graves.

Hi Frank,
I certainly wouldn't describe my discs as 'semi-rigid'.  They're certainly hard.   Re vibration, mine doesn't seem to really vibrate, but I can't compare it with the one in the video.
Guess I'm telling myself......in the days before electricity, people managed to cut faceted stones and I'd bet they didn't have equipment as nice as what's out there now.
To a large extent, I suppose it depends on 'how perfect' you expect these facets to be, but it's nice to know that it can still be done.

Thanks guys!! dancer5
That's what I wondered, and some day [when I have fewer challenges on my plate] I may 'give it a whirl.
That little video is a 'good beginning.
Thanks again.
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Carol M
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jakesrocks
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« Reply #19 on: August 21, 2013, 09:14:59 pm »

You guys all know the Ameritool uses the softer (I call them semi-rigid as the name explains them I think) diamond sanding discs right? Will it still work with those or would one have to buy all hard discs? I'm thinking of the drag the sanding discs put on some material - problem yay/nay?

Also - y'all must have some better Ameritools than mine as mine vibrates too much to use the gadgets shown in the video Debbie posted. Nowhere near as bad as an Inland (or mine Inland at least) but still enough to make me wish I had a graves.

The Inland disks are rigid steel, and reasonably priced. They come in 6" and 8" sizes and fit standard arbors. (!/2" Hole).
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« Reply #20 on: August 21, 2013, 09:42:37 pm »

You guys all know the Ameritool uses the softer (I call them semi-rigid as the name explains them I think) diamond sanding discs right? Will it still work with those or would one have to buy all hard discs? I'm thinking of the drag the sanding discs put on some material - problem yay/nay?

Also - y'all must have some better Ameritools than mine as mine vibrates too much to use the gadgets shown in the video Debbie posted. Nowhere near as bad as an Inland (or mine Inland at least) but still enough to make me wish I had a graves.

The Inland disks are rigid steel, and reasonably priced. They come in 6" and 8" sizes and fit standard arbors. (!/2" Hole).

The also will work on an Ameritool - and vice versa, fwiw.

Carol - I must use more water than you (I do use a lot - lieutenant swarf is not welcome on my enterprise) as my flex quite a bit. It's how I get nice curves leading into the lines when I pseudo-facet (I press them into that flex) -->



--> for example. Krystee tells me she has taken to putting thick rubbery ("like mouse pads") backing on them and pressing in really hard for certain effects. I haven't tried that yet - it's on next year's budget list  dunno
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« Reply #21 on: August 21, 2013, 09:55:32 pm »

Now you're talkin' Frank.   yes

Yes, Krystee told me that too. 

[weird story] I was ordering the whole magilla from Ameritool-inc that Krystee recommended, including the 8" spongy discs that go between the hard disc base and the replaceable topping.
I was having it sent to Pa for me to pick up there [because of the weight and shipping charges] and I asked them to please run the Flat-Lap to make sure all was in order before they shipped it because returning it from Canada is absurd. 
Anyway they said they would.   When I opened the boxes though someone there 'very kindly' put all the colored toppers on the appropriate bases and cut the holes in the middle and everything [talk about amazing customer service] but they didn't realize that they were to put the spongy discs between the base and topper [ERGH]....so I now have a bag of spongy discs but no where to put them.

They said I could return them for a credit but till I shipped them back the savings wouldn't be worth it.
I figure I'll just hang onto them and someday as the removable tops wear out and have to be replaced, I'll just add the spongy disc in between as I go.
I told Krystee this story and she said that actually she had only just started using the spongy disc centers in 2013 and always did it the way I have them.  She said that it'll be good to learn that way, then the spongy discs will just make things better, when I get there.
[She was referring to doing cabs however.....not faceting.]
The harder discs would probably be better for faceting though, now that I think about it.
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Ciao,
Carol M
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« Reply #22 on: August 21, 2013, 10:35:19 pm »

Oh bummer - but nice of them in intent I suppose. Yes I'm impressed with their customer service as well. Mine vibrated badly when I got it and I was going to return it for money back. I called and heard the speech coming - so I stopped them in mid-track and said it's not that I mind returning and re-trying and all that - it's the freakin' shipping costs of doing that! They said no sweat and gave me a number for Fedex and picked up the shipping tab both ways. They swore they did nothing to it but it vibrated a lot less when I got it back. I've since found that if it does get to vibrating (twice so far for me but I am super heavy-handed - I really bear down on these poor things) you can take that little aluminum top off with the hex wrench provided, clean the oxides out of the hold and off the shaft (first time it came off with just a q-tip and some vaseline - second time I had to use 1500 grit sandpaper - no sweat) and get it back to semi-purring again. Apparently the oxide buildup offsets that top just enough to cause excess vibration (or can if you use it harshly anyway). My Inland is the same but builds up oxides WAY quicker (we're talking brass (Inland) versus Aluminum (Ameritool)) and same deal with how little it takes to upset the apple cart.

Yes - hold on to them pads - over time you will wear out discs and you'll be glad you have them. Meantime it works just dandy without them.

Word of warning - that PSA is sticky stuff! I had a VERY hard time prying off one of those discs when I replaced it and the disc came off leaving the PSA and some type of cellophane film (or like it) behind on the backing plate. I tossed the thing into the lid from a 5 gallon bucket and filled it with olive oil and let it set for 48 hours. The goo slid right off. The plate had an oily feel to it that I couldn't get rid of (must have absorbed just a tiny bit of the oil) so I let it soak in rubbing alcohol for 48 hours and it's back in action - haven't had any problems with it and it's been more than a few months now. Thought I'd share that - but if anybody has a better way of re-using those backing plates by all means let us know.

I'd be curious to see you experiment with faceting. You explain things in detail (I like detail) and I'd enjoy reading the adventure while learning a lot that I could actually apply. I too am curious about these faceted cabs and the example that was shown of Carlton's spectrolite (or labradorite - I forget now) was prime!

YOU go girl!  yes
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Carol M
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« Reply #23 on: August 22, 2013, 09:26:00 am »

Oh bummer - but nice of them in intent I suppose. Yes I'm impressed with their customer service as well. Mine vibrated badly when I got it and I was going to return it for money back. I called and heard the speech coming - so I stopped them in mid-track and said it's not that I mind returning and re-trying and all that - it's the freakin' shipping costs of doing that! They said no sweat and gave me a number for Fedex and picked up the shipping tab both ways. They swore they did nothing to it but it vibrated a lot less when I got it back. I've since found that if it does get to vibrating (twice so far for me but I am super heavy-handed - I really bear down on these poor things) you can take that little aluminum top off with the hex wrench provided, clean the oxides out of the hold and off the shaft (first time it came off with just a q-tip and some vaseline - second time I had to use 1500 grit sandpaper - no sweat) and get it back to semi-purring again. Apparently the oxide buildup offsets that top just enough to cause excess vibration (or can if you use it harshly anyway). My Inland is the same but builds up oxides WAY quicker (we're talking brass (Inland) versus Aluminum (Ameritool)) and same deal with how little it takes to upset the apple cart.

Yes - hold on to them pads - over time you will wear out discs and you'll be glad you have them. Meantime it works just dandy without them.

Word of warning - that PSA is sticky stuff! I had a VERY hard time prying off one of those discs when I replaced it and the disc came off leaving the PSA and some type of cellophane film (or like it) behind on the backing plate. I tossed the thing into the lid from a 5 gallon bucket and filled it with olive oil and let it set for 48 hours. The goo slid right off. The plate had an oily feel to it that I couldn't get rid of (must have absorbed just a tiny bit of the oil) so I let it soak in rubbing alcohol for 48 hours and it's back in action - haven't had any problems with it and it's been more than a few months now. Thought I'd share that - but if anybody has a better way of re-using those backing plates by all means let us know.

I'd be curious to see you experiment with faceting. You explain things in detail (I like detail) and I'd enjoy reading the adventure while learning a lot that I could actually apply. I too am curious about these faceted cabs and the example that was shown of Carlton's spectrolite (or labradorite - I forget now) was prime!

YOU go girl!  yes

Fascinating note about the olive oil Frank.
Hmmmm.  That makes me wonder how in heck you're supposed to get those toppers off when they do wear out, because OMG they're REALLY ON WELL!!!
You'd think that they were permanently laminated the way they're stuck.

I'm wondering if Acetone would work, since that removes SuperGlue.   Maybe if you took a pan [like a pizza pan or maybe even a round cake pan if it would fit] and poured enough Acetone in it to be about 1/4" deep, and put the disc in the pan, with the ruined topping facing down, that the glue would soften.   Don't know if the Acetone would destroy or damage the base though.
I'm gonna contact Ameritool-Inc and ask them what to use to remove them.
I'll let you know when I hear back.
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Carol M
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« Reply #24 on: August 22, 2013, 09:39:36 am »

Carol, be careful with acetone. If you have metal backing plates it will work just fine. But acetone will eat up most plastics.
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« Reply #25 on: August 22, 2013, 10:21:35 am »

Carol, be careful with acetone. If you have metal backing plates it will work just fine. But acetone will eat up most plastics.

Thanks Don, I was afraid of that.
The ones that come with the Ameritool Flat lap are acrylic http://www.ameritool-inc.com/store/index.cfm/product/20_2/backing-plates.cfm
I don't know what the glue is made from but it REALLY STICKS TO THE DISCS. dunno

Anyway, happily I don't have to remove them for a while.
I emailed Ameritool-Inc and asked them what they recommend.
I'll let y'all know when I hear back.

If anyone else knows please 'pipe up'!!  thinking13
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Carol M
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« Reply #26 on: August 22, 2013, 12:30:26 pm »

Defintely do not use Acetone with Acrylic. That is basically what superglue is. Acetone should be ok with polypropylene though I still store mine in a glass jar if not in the can.
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« Reply #27 on: August 22, 2013, 12:38:28 pm »

I tend to use them until they wear out, (~6 months, but I don't use them often), then they come off a little easier. I've been tempted to try a light mineral oil like 3M. My guess is specialty products like WD-40 have so much solvent in them they would probably also attack the plastic backing.

Tim
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« Reply #28 on: August 22, 2013, 02:36:05 pm »

Talk about a speedy reply from Ameritool-Inc.

I just heard back re how to remove the topper from the Ameritool backing disc. 
This was their email -

Hi Carol,

Thank you for your inquiry.

Don't let the disc sit in acetone as prolonged contact will damage the backing plate.  Acetone is fine for removing the
sticky residue on the backing plate once the Topper is removed.  Just be sure to rinse thoroughly.  Dawn dishwashing liquid also works well.

To remove the Topper, you can heat it with a hair dryer or soak in very hot water to get the edge to loosen then pry off with a screw driver.  It is work but it can be done.

If you have further questions, please let us know.


So very hot water sounds like the key and maybe some Dawn dish soap, and a lot of muscle.
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Ciao,
Carol M
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« Reply #29 on: August 22, 2013, 05:20:15 pm »

Carol, the hair dryer definitely takes them off. We go to the Kansas City show most every year, and the owner, Steve I think is there, he is most gracious, even when he is swamped with buyers. He also sells one heck of jewelry buffer for under $200.
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