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February 22, 2019, 01:20:43 pm
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Saw oil

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Hexic
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« on: August 08, 2013, 09:56:39 pm »

So I know this has been discussed a thousand times so sorry to post a new thread but...

I'm picking up an 18" slab saw this weekend and need to get oil for it. It's going in my garage where *gasp* we actually park our vehicles. So I can't really be using anything that is going to stink up the area and potentially make our cars smell too. I'm thinking about putting up some sort of shower curtain or something to curtail any mist. I'll of course back out the cars when I'm cutting but I don't want some funky smell seeping in.

Recommendations? I checked with the local rock store here and they charge $16 a gallon and can't even tell me what it is they sell.  help
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« Reply #1 on: August 08, 2013, 10:02:22 pm »

I have a 69 Chevelle SS parked a few feet away from my saws and I do not move it out  or cover it when sawing.  I use the lightest viscosity mineral oil I can find and it is totally odorless.  It is sold as fence and shingle oil where I buy it.
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Hexic
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« Reply #2 on: August 08, 2013, 10:16:39 pm »

Do you happen to know the brand you use?
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« Reply #3 on: August 08, 2013, 10:18:15 pm »

ideal brand white mineral oil from a farm supply store. you want it light, about sus 70
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« Reply #4 on: August 09, 2013, 12:07:27 am »

No brand names on the stuff I buy.  I get it from Tarr Chemical Supply.
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denny
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« Reply #5 on: August 09, 2013, 07:14:47 am »

I use Chevron Brite NHG and get it from an oil distributor in Austin at $75 (including tax) for a five gallon bucket.  It's virtually odorless (unless you stick your nose in it ura) and I park my Jeep within three feet of it.  No resideue whatsoever.
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« Reply #6 on: August 09, 2013, 09:19:27 am »

Mineral oil and I think we pay $40 for five gallon bucket. Give or take a few dollars.
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Hexic
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« Reply #7 on: August 09, 2013, 09:51:34 am »

Great thanks all. I'll check out the local places here and see way I can find.  Have a buddy who works at a farm supply store. Maybe I can get an employee discount on some minemine2
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sealdaddy
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« Reply #8 on: August 09, 2013, 02:22:56 pm »

I use the light mineral oil at Tractor Supply...for large animal laxative...lol
http://www.tractorsupply.com/en/store/ideal-animal-health-mineral-oil-light-1-gal?cm_vc=-10005
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Hexic
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« Reply #9 on: August 10, 2013, 09:01:02 pm »

No luck finding the mineral oil around here. One farm store had some of it but only 3 gallons and no info on the label for viscosity. Plus it was more than others so I passed.

One rock store here carries Lortone's rock oil. Need to do some research and see if it might work. Otherwise will hold out for the mineral oil.
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« Reply #10 on: August 10, 2013, 09:25:55 pm »

Check with your local butcher shop, they use food grade mineral oil to lube their saws and grinders, usually about 12 bucks a gallon.

If you have a wholesale oil supplier (they sell oil to the gas stations, large farms, businesses that use lots of oil, etc) ask them for technical grade mineral oil or dust suppression oil, both of those are white mineral oil and usually around 6-8 bucks a gallon.

Check with your local large animal vet, they use it for horses by the gallon, many of them have 5 gal buckets or a drum on hand, not sure on pricing from there.

Good luck............Tony
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Hexic
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« Reply #11 on: August 10, 2013, 09:41:42 pm »

Thanks I'll look into those. The Lortone stuff appears to be technical grade mineral oil with no smell from what I gather. The shop also mentioned they sell a coolant/additive but I assume that's just for water. I shouldn't need anything like that with oil right?

And also how much do I need for an 18" HP?
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« Reply #12 on: August 10, 2013, 09:41:58 pm »

I see that I've been over-paying for my oil. I get the horse-lax by the gallon at the local tack shop, usually 21.95.
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« Reply #13 on: August 10, 2013, 10:15:04 pm »

You should need about 5 gallons for a HP 18".

The additive is usually for water or trim saws, it does help but you don't need it in the HP saw. If you have lots of mist you can get "Bardahl No Smoke" at your local auto parts store and add 1/4 to 1/2 of it in your saw and it will keep the mist down.

Tony
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Hexic
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« Reply #14 on: August 13, 2013, 04:50:34 pm »

You know I've made it this far in life just fine without ever having a slab saw. But now that it's parked in my garage waiting to cut, waiting for the oil to be in stock next week at Tractor Supply is driving me nuts!

Turns out while one local shop told me on the phone they sell the Lortone oil for $35 for 3 gallons, they actually wanted $35 PER gallon once I drove all the way across town to get it.

The other shop has their oil in but it's smelly Almag that they sell.

Ah well. Patience is a virtue or so they tell me.
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« Reply #15 on: August 13, 2013, 09:02:43 pm »

I have 5 gal buckets of it for $60 if you want to come pick it up.
I have never tried to ship a bucket of oil before so I don't know how much that would cost.

Tony
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« Reply #16 on: September 21, 2013, 05:07:25 pm »

You can buy food grade mineral oil at walmart or target in Alaska for $1.62/16oz. Thats just under $13 per gallon. That is the best I could find up here. Filter old oil through brown paper bag in 5 gal bucket, you can recover 60% or better.
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« Reply #17 on: September 21, 2013, 06:14:58 pm »

I use ISO 32 Hydraulic oil from an Attwoods farm and home. Does the job just great at
about $30 a five gallon bucket.
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« Reply #18 on: September 21, 2013, 06:27:33 pm »

ISO 30 is viscosity 32 Centistokes at 40 deg-C, which is over 160 SUS. I use SUS 70 lite mineral oil, which is about 12 Centistokes.

I think that means your oil is 2-3 times thicker than mine.
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« Reply #19 on: September 21, 2013, 08:26:30 pm »

Hey Daniel, whats a centistoke?
All's I know, is the ISO 32 is cheap and works. Harder to clean of the slabs in the winter, and that is why God made dishwashers!
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« Reply #20 on: September 21, 2013, 11:07:59 pm »

a unit of viscosity

http://www.engineeringtoolbox.com/iso-grade-oil-d_1207.html

http://www.engineeringtoolbox.com/viscosity-converter-d_413.html

I wonder if the thicker oil penetrates the slab less and is easier to clean off. i don't know about dishwasher, but I believe in Dawn
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« Reply #21 on: September 22, 2013, 12:21:25 am »

I wasn't going to go this direction since the thread was more on what oil to buy  but , if you want to clean the oil off fast and deep use this--- disclaimer wear a mask do it out side and wear rubber gloves-- I don't do any of that but my brain has been dead since the sixty's which I don't remember. So what is it it's carb/chock cleaner. help
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« Reply #22 on: September 22, 2013, 06:12:53 am »

I use ISO 32 Hydraulic oil from an Attwoods farm and home. Does the job just great at
about $30 a five gallon bucket.
Hey, me too...but thin it a bit with some light mineral oil for horses.
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« Reply #23 on: September 22, 2013, 09:32:49 am »


Speaking of Almag and its supposedly bad smell.  I was at my friends shop and he was slabbing, as he has been doing for the years I have known him....anyway I asked what he used oil wise and he said Almag.....could have knocked me over with a feather.  I have never ever smelled anything in his shop.  Just sayin....
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Hexic
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« Reply #24 on: September 22, 2013, 09:34:59 am »

I ended up just buying mineral oil from Tractor Supply and a local feed store. $17 per gallon at Tractor Supply but for the amount I cut it should last me a good long while.

The local rock store sells Almag but they said it does have a smell to it. Not worth the risk to me being next to our cars.
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« Reply #25 on: September 22, 2013, 12:48:47 pm »

With all the Dawn we buy, I should be buying stock in Proctor and ****! LOL
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« Reply #26 on: September 22, 2013, 01:23:41 pm »

With all the Dawn we buy, I should be buying stock in Proctor and ****! LOL

How Dawn with water do you add?
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« Reply #27 on: September 22, 2013, 06:15:27 pm »

I like a soapy slab bucket. I put about 1oz/gallon
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« Reply #28 on: September 22, 2013, 06:44:07 pm »

I rub the Dawn all over the slab and then rinse.
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sealdaddy
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« Reply #29 on: September 22, 2013, 07:24:39 pm »

I like a soapy slab bucket. I put about 1oz/gallon

That's what I'm doing too.
Soaking them for a day, or so...then rinsing.
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« Reply #30 on: September 22, 2013, 08:35:15 pm »

I wait until there is about 25lbs of slabs in the bucket, anywhere from 10 days to months depending on my mood. I have learned that the slab bucket will freeze during particularly cold Jan in Kansas.
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« Reply #31 on: September 22, 2013, 08:43:27 pm »

I just wash them like dishes then rinse.
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denny
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« Reply #32 on: September 23, 2013, 07:14:09 am »

I put mine in liquid degreaser for two days, pull them out and wash them with Dawn.  that's it!
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sealdaddy
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« Reply #33 on: September 23, 2013, 07:16:22 am »

I put mine in liquid degreaser for two days, pull them out and wash them with Dawn.  that's it!
Which liquid degreaser, please?
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denny
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« Reply #34 on: September 23, 2013, 01:57:08 pm »

Whichever one is available at either Home Depot or WalMart when I go there.  My last time I got a five gallon container from HD.  That was three months ago and I still have enough left for another month or so.
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« Reply #35 on: September 25, 2013, 02:43:03 pm »

I just got a quote for $64.71 for 5 gallons of Mineral Seal Oil from LubeTech.   woohoo2  Last time it cost me over $75.

I feel sorry for those of you who have to get oil shipped.  I got a quote from a company in Texas for a similar product that was $173 shipped.  That seems to be about the going rate - $150 to $175, sometimes plus shipping.

I like the Mineral Seal Oil because it has no additives, although it is prone to misting.  I just add NoSmoke.

Chuck
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« Reply #36 on: September 25, 2013, 04:04:12 pm »

I use mineral oil from tractor supply myself... once the slab is done cutting, I just turn off saw and let it sit for a minute while I finish what ever else I am working on, then when I open the hood there is little to no misting there, but I am also in my shed so mist is a non issue for me, especially in Fla. where during the winter it gets down to a seriously chilly 60 degree during the day and as low as 40 at night!!! hide 

for cleaning the slabs I use one of those citrus based cleaners from Sams club, about $9/gallon and add about 1 cup to 3 gallons of water. Then I just throw in slabs as I cut then and at weeks end pull them out and a quick scrub with a brush and rinse in bucket again or hit it with the garden hos, 10 minutes in the sun and they are good 2 go!! coolshuffle
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« Reply #37 on: September 25, 2013, 09:14:27 pm »

You should be able to find mineral oil for around $40 per five gallons. Good place to ask is your favorite restaurant or large farm, they should be able to point you to a wholesale company/supply company.
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« Reply #38 on: September 26, 2013, 08:33:23 pm »

Yeah, I looked up the web sites for the restaurant supply companies and butcher suppliers; none listed mineral oil.  Guess I'll have to call.

Chuck
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« Reply #39 on: September 27, 2013, 09:15:39 am »

Big R has mineral oil.
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« Reply #40 on: September 27, 2013, 11:04:58 am »

I use a water soluble grinding and cutting oil from an auto parts store. My reasoning for this is two fold one is that it costs me about 25-30$ for a gallon of concentrate so it costs me between 2-3$/gal you can vary the concentration to make it more or less viscous. If you have worked around diamond core drilling rigs I mean the type that are used for mineral exploration they only use water for their bits, the reasons are that water is a better cooling agent than oil, and you need to be sure to flush all the cuttings because regrinding is very hard on the blade or bit. You do want some oil though just to reduce the friction that generates the heat but the least you can get by with the better I have run as low as 20-1 for softer minerals then pumped it up for quarts/agate/jasper and you can just add it straight from the bottle when needed then thin it down with water when needed. I also use lots and lots of liquid when sawing makes it messy but sure keeps the kerf cleaned out.
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« Reply #41 on: September 27, 2013, 06:55:41 pm »

Water and bearings?
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« Reply #42 on: September 27, 2013, 07:27:29 pm »

Most bearings are sealed and used on equipment that is in the elements during rain, sleet, snow all kinds of extremes and many don't even have grease zerks so I really don't see that as a big problem the bearings aren't sitting under the oil water surface.
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« Reply #43 on: September 27, 2013, 08:34:19 pm »

I have bought, cleaned up, refurbed  and used or sold over 50 slab saws and the ones that had water used in them are almost always  in far worse shape than the ones that had oil in them. I have only ever gotten one that had water used in it that wasn't in bad shape and it was because it was made out of stainless steel.

Core drilling rigs use water because they don't want to clean up the oil, plus it is cheaper, which is a plus when you are using thousands of gallons for coolant.

Tony
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« Reply #44 on: September 27, 2013, 09:17:55 pm »

maybe I wasn't explaining what I was using so here with the pros and cons


These cutting oils are more commonly referred to as soluble oils. This however, is a misnomer because they are not really soluble in water but form an emulsion when added to water. These emulsifiable oils are mineral oil based concentrates, which contain emulsifiers that allow them to mix with water and form a milky white emulsion. They also contain additives to improve their lubricating properties, rust and corrosion inhibitors and a biocide to help control foul smell.
 

Water Soluble Cutting OIlThere are several advantages of water emulsifiable oils, viz.: good cooling, low viscosity and thus adequate wetting abilities, non-flammable and nontoxic, easy to clean from small chips and wear particles using standard filters, relatively low initial and disposal cost. There are few disadvantages also viz.: low lubricity, foul smell, misting etc. However these oils are the most popular cutting fluids in use today, because they combine the lubricating qualities of oil with the cooling properties of water and can be used in a wide range of both machining and grinding operations
 
You are right about the big rigs Tony the cost would be prohibitive probably but the other reason is that environmental laws won't allow it , although oil rigs use diesel fuel.
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« Reply #45 on: April 23, 2014, 10:53:16 pm »

Greetings,

Being the proud new owner of a like new 24" Highland Park Mod U, I asked around about oils, both pros and hobbyists. I read MSDS, I read manufacturers recommendations, I read oil and gas industry product descriptions, and I talked to fuel/oil  distributor sales reps and both I talked to knew products used in lapidary.

Cheap but stinks to high heaven, one long time hobbyist I know uses kerosene!

The commercial Roc Oil is mineral oil based and I found no complaints other than price.

The manufacturer specifically lists a thin mineral oil.

Shipping, if needed, is really-really expensive!

The veterinarians around here only have small quantities of horse laxative mineral oil.

So, for me... I ordered the Chevron product "Shingle Oil" in 5 gal buckets for $82 which included a local truck delivery to my neighborhood Cenex gas station (I'd guess that it could be delivered to any fuel station or mechanic's shop selling/using Chevron products. This specific product was recommended by 2 longtime pro's as well).

It is still cool here, but so far I am not noticing any mist or odor, it drains into the saw basin rapidly, rock dust settles out of the oil rapidly, it coats the blade well, cleans easily (Dawn) and the couple dozen cuts made in Obsidian and petrified wood are very smooth. (As I understand, these rocks are pretty easy on saws).

If it were just my limited experience, I'd keep it to myself. But in this case I'm just verifying what half a dozen long time users have suggested.

Also, this VW sized saw would have taken 15 gallons, I filled the bottom side farthest from the blade with bricks to cut the volume to 10 gallons (also suggested by the friend I got the saw from).
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« Reply #46 on: April 24, 2014, 06:33:20 am »

I use only mineral oil from whatever oil supplier is convenient.  Denver has several.  I often open the saw while the blade is still spinning ( I run a dry sump with cascade settler and pump.)  and never have any mist.  In fact the saws are in my finished basement.  If you are getting a misting problem, I would suggest you go through the saw and look for blade misalignment or other cause of excessive friction.  Any oil that is formulated for a particular purpose is done so with additives.  Please be sure you know what is in the oil you are using.  Some hydraulic oils are very hard on the skin.  I can't imagine what they would do to lungs.  All hydraulic oils are hygroscopic.  We had a young engineer at work some years back who OK'd hydraulic oil for lubricating the production machinery.  I found out about it when I noticed rust bubbling up out of the journal bushings and started asking questions.  It would likely be fine in very dry conditions, but we run swamp coolers during the summer.
  After sawing, I let the slabs drain on edge for a day then bury them in fine kitty litter for another day.  After that a quick rinse is usually all the is needed.  By the way, I recover a pretty fair amount of oil from the draining.
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« Reply #47 on: April 24, 2014, 07:19:24 am »

I also only use mineral oil.  We have tried many things including antifreeze (disaster).  Latest purchase was mineral oil for horse laxative.   Is really too thick and takes a long time to settle out the dirt.  Am going to try a new mineral oil next.  It was being sold at Quartzsite and is supposed to be thinner.  Mia Mining  is the Company,  Kevin Kessler  is the man we spoke to.   He is located out of Joshua Tree, Ca.  Will let you know how we like it.  Bev
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« Reply #48 on: April 24, 2014, 08:20:22 am »

I use this mineral oil.  They have 2 kinds & I use the light one.  I pay $14 each, get 4 at a time & shipping is free.

http://www.scbt.com/datasheet-359654.html
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« Reply #49 on: May 21, 2014, 07:22:32 pm »

I use this mineral oil.  They have 2 kinds & I use the light one.  I pay $14 each, get 4 at a time & shipping is free.

http://www.scbt.com/datasheet-359654.html

Yup Yup... I use this too!!

And I can vouch that the price is still good too, I was on their site 5/19/2014 and they were still at $14/Gal. with free shipping for orders over $50.00 (4 Gals)

Best price I have seen, especially for people with large sump saws!!
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« Reply #50 on: May 22, 2014, 01:38:23 am »

I ordered 4 gals.  $56 no shipping chrg.  I haven't used it yet as we are still in the process of moving to this great state of Oregon.
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« Reply #51 on: May 22, 2014, 07:01:48 am »

FWIW.  When I picked up my HP J2 - 18"  and started looking for oil, I got lucky and found a distributor in the area who had food grade mineral oil for $10/gal.  I say lucky, because it was the last two 5 gallon buckets he had at that price.  His supplier had changed manufacturers and the new price was $14 / gal. 
The oil is Duoprime 90, and I am very pleased with it.  Unlike the Tractor Supply horse lax I was using in my 10" (at $18 / gal), the Duoprime drains off cut slabs quickly, leaving them nearly dry overnight.  I think the horse lax may have some "coating ingredient" that makes it more difficult to clean off.
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« Reply #52 on: July 02, 2014, 10:09:12 am »

If you check the Yellow pages for industrial oil distributor you will likely find food grade mineral oil. Some brands call theirs Technical white oil. It has no smell and is very easy on your skin.  I used Shell Pella oil when I was a newbie and got my first 18 inch Highland Park saw and it caused me to cough and my arms got a rash.  Last time I purchased a five gallon bucket is was about $75.00.Wholesale food distributors may also carry it
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« Reply #53 on: July 05, 2014, 03:52:55 am »

A question on oils to use.

I have been using light mineral cutting oil as recommended by the saw manufacturer for the last 5 years. it does work well.

However its not cheap!

I note that some use hydraulic oil.

Has anyone tried used/old industrial or automotive hydraulic oil?

Some places will almost pay you to take it away!
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vitzitziltecpatl
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« Reply #54 on: July 05, 2014, 08:13:38 am »

We've been using the DuoPrime 90 here. No complaints with performance. About $90 for 5 gallon buckets here. Will look into the "Light" oil from Agri-Labs later (club meeting this AM) but expect it's similar - just not "food grade" rated. If it's thinner I might try it.
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« Reply #55 on: July 06, 2014, 03:00:48 pm »

FWIW.  When I picked up my HP J2 - 18"  and started looking for oil, I got lucky and found a distributor in the area who had food grade mineral oil for $10/gal.  I say lucky, because it was the last two 5 gallon buckets he had at that price.  His supplier had changed manufacturers and the new price was $14 / gal. 
The oil is Duoprime 90, and I am very pleased with it.  Unlike the Tractor Supply horse lax I was using in my 10" (at $18 / gal), the Duoprime drains off cut slabs quickly, leaving them nearly dry overnight.  I think the horse lax may have some "coating ingredient" that makes it more difficult to clean off.

That's very interesting.  If I ever get setup, I am going to try the horse lax I bought.
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« Reply #56 on: April 28, 2015, 10:35:47 am »

While I was in Quartzite this year, I picked up 10 gallons of Stellar Lubricants Platinum Cut coolant oil. It's scented with Orange Oil, so there is no unpleasant odor to it at all and it has worked fine so far. I believe I paid about $75 per 5 gallon bucket.

Stellarlubricants.com
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« Reply #57 on: April 28, 2015, 12:14:01 pm »

Just picked up 55 gallons of white oil for $6.00 dollars a gallon.

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« Reply #58 on: April 28, 2015, 01:05:53 pm »

Food grade mineral oil is available from many sources and brands. It is virtually odor free and is not a hazard to your breathing or skin.  Shell calls theirs, TECHNICAL WHITE OIL and I last ordered mine in 5 gallon buckets from a local industrial oil distributor and they delivered to my door on their local truck for about $75.00 a gallon. The meat cutter suggestion that was made is a good suggestion. I have an 18"Highland Park and it takes five gallons.
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« Reply #59 on: April 28, 2015, 03:48:33 pm »

I think you guys are missing out by not using water soluble cutting and grinding oil it will cut your costs down, only time I have noticed misting is when the saw starts running hot indicating you need to add oil or dress the blade or the blade is worn out, they are generally biodegradable. Lapidary suppliers sell it as the form kool lube and such but it can be bought in automotive supply stores, or Ace hardware. A 10:1 ratio is very good so costs run about 3$ to 4$ per gallon. BTW it is a mineral oil base. You can check the MSDS sheets out on it they are all pretty close to being the same. I have been using this for years and it works very well for me.   
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« Reply #60 on: April 28, 2015, 08:39:25 pm »

The only problem with mineral oil, compared to the $$$$ oil from..... I for got what company, but you have to change it more frequently. It must have a lower flash point.
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« Reply #61 on: September 04, 2015, 11:35:01 pm »

I just got some Mag1 Turbine Shaft Drip Oil ISO 22 at Tractor Supply for my 12" saw. 5 gal for $40. Almost no odor and nearly water white (very slight amber color). MSDS says Flash Pt 188 degC, NFPA rating:Health-0 Fire-1 Reactivity-0. Works great.

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« Reply #62 on: September 05, 2015, 02:37:42 am »

I paid $75.00 for five gallon buckets of food grade mineral oil. It is sold under many brand names, i.e. technical white oil etc. Look for an industrial oil supplier or even food suppliers.  No need to buy a lapidary brand.
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