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Cutting spheres the easy way PIC ADDED 11/25

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Author Topic: Cutting spheres the easy way PIC ADDED 11/25  (Read 380 times)
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greenhorn
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« on: November 23, 2010, 12:09:33 am »

Are there any other sphere makers on the forum? You will be interested in these exciting new methods for sphere grinding that take much of the work and hassle out of cutting spheres. First of all is the use of a chain grit feed. Simply put a grit pan sufficient to catch any falling grit from the sphere you wish to grind underneath your sphere machine. Fill this pan with your slurry. Now make a loop of ball chain long enough to go over the sphere and hang into the grit. A little too long has not caused any problems for me. Now, when you run your sphere machine, the chain will ride at the junction of the sphere and one of the cups. The spinning motion of the cup will cause the chain to pull fresh slurry up to the sphere and deposit old slurry back into the cup. If you are using diamond grit, you will get many spheres worth of grinding from each pan of grit, but if you are using SiC grit you should add grit and water from time to time. By this method you can eliminate completely the work of spooning grit over the sphere without and complicated grit feed systems. This method was explained to me by a friend of mine who used it to polish marbles.

The next methods are my own innovation. Somebody else may have developed some of this independently from me, but if so I have never heard of it before. One is the use of free diamond grit in sphere grinding. Diamond grit is through to be expensive by most people, but in reality industrial diamond is quite cheap if you buy it directly from the manufacturer. 100 carats of the cheapest grade diamond usually will cost less than $8. 100 carats of the cheapest diamond will last through perhaps a dozen spheres, depending of course on size. This diamond can be used in addition to your SiC grit and will dramatically speed up the grinding operation, especially rough griding.

Even more ideal than using diamond with SiC grit is to use diamond mixed with bentonite clay slip. You can use ordinary clay kitty litter, which is bentonite clay. This will grind into a fine creamy slurry which is thick enough to keep the diamond from sinking to the bottom. Simply set up your sphere machine with clean cups and a clean preform and the chain feed grit described above. Fill the slurry container with clean water and run the machine. The sphere will quickly wet. Now sprinkle kitty litter over the sphere. It will grind up and form a clay that will quickly be washed down into the slurry container. Continue adding kitty litter to the sphere and letting it be washed down by the chain until the grit pan is filled with creamy slurry and the patterns on the blank are completely obscured by the thin slip. Then add the diamond grit to the grit pan. This slurry will be very similar to the slurry developed in vibratory tumblers, and this clay can in fact be very usefully in vibratory tumbling. The grinding will be LOUD when you are in the rough stage, putting the machine on a concrete base will help with the noise.

While the diamond grit and bentonite clay are many times faster than regular SiC grit, there is another simple trick the will make your sphere machine work much more quickly. Use cups made out of annealed copper, tin, or zinc. These metals are known to have diamond grains embed them self into the surface of the metal. Sometimes the grains will embed very firmly, especially in a well used annealed cup. Once they are firmly embedded, the diamond grains are not going anywhere, so the continue to grind instead of being washed back into the slurry. The copper will become completely covered in diamond in a very short time and will grind very quickly. The diamond tends to concentrate in the cups so the entire surface of the cup is covered with diamond, in comparison to a diamond wheel that may only have a few diamonds exposed in the case of sintered high grind diamond wheels.

With the combination of these technologies you can grind spheres very quickly, probably more quickly than any other method yet invented. Also, attendance is not required after the sphere is mostly rounded. I leave my machine on over night regularly, and also when I am away from the house. Make sure that there is nothing to burn just in case something goes wrong. The total investment of time to make a 4" sphere with this method is about half an hour plus the amount of time it took the preform the sphere. The rest of the grinding is done without your attention.

Although this is a short list of improvements on the basic sphere machine, there are many yet to be made or that are to subtle to describe here. If enough people ever actually try this maybe we will be able to discuss those more subtle improvements.

« Last Edit: November 24, 2010, 09:36:03 pm by greenhorn » Report Spam   Logged

christopherl1234
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« Reply #1 on: November 23, 2010, 12:37:39 am »

That seems like some good time there! Does this include the polish? Even if it is 30 minutes to get a rough sphere ready for polish that is good time indeed. Have you made many spheres out of your Rose Quartz? If so would you post some photos?
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« Reply #2 on: November 23, 2010, 03:25:03 am »

Greenhorn,

Can you show us a picture of your sphere making machine?

In preforming the sphere how accurate do you need to be?

Allen
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« Reply #3 on: November 23, 2010, 07:49:05 am »


Yes, I would really like to see some pics.

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« Reply #4 on: November 23, 2010, 01:37:31 pm »

I gotta go to the PO, when I get pack I will post pics. The preforming should be as accurate as possible to get faster results from the machine. Usually it takes a couple days and nights for a baseball sized sphere, but it really depends on how good of a preform job you do. Pics coming today.
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« Reply #5 on: November 24, 2010, 09:40:05 pm »



I also put this image in my original post. This is a small sphere of rose quartz being roughed in with my marble machine, which needs a new motor. I am in the process of building about a 15" machine which will replace it. You can see the three grinding cups, which are standard steel plumbing parts. Copper would be better. The abrasive is 60 grit diamond mixed with kitty litter. As more rocks are ground up it will turn more muddy brown and eventually you will have to pan off the excess clay with a gold pan leaving pure diamond and start the grit bath over again.
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« Reply #6 on: January 20, 2012, 07:58:10 am »



I also put this image in my original post. This is a small sphere of rose quartz being roughed in with my marble machine, which needs a new motor. I am in the process of building about a 15" machine which will replace it. You can see the three grinding cups, which are standard steel plumbing parts. Copper would be better. The abrasive is 60 grit diamond mixed with kitty litter. As more rocks are ground up it will turn more muddy brown and eventually you will have to pan off the excess clay with a gold pan leaving pure diamond and start the grit bath over again.

Regarding the panning method of diamond seperation: I'm not sure if this is helpful or not but I occasionally separate various sizes of crunched up sandstone (for someone who's wanting to do sand paintings - I find the stone in many colors). Here's the method I use - gets rid of matrix, mud etc and allows separation into at least two or three grit sizes.

1. Materials:
  a.) At least six large cylindrical glass vases (as tall as you can fit under a sink to fill) - about .99 cents/ea at goodwill.
  b.) 5 gallon bucket.
  c.) A long enough spoon to stir material in the vases of the sizes you've acquired. Three spoons are better but one can be used and rinsed between stages.
  d.) Stopwatch. If your wrist watch has one then you're set.

2. Line your vases up in course to fine order with the bucket in the middle area so you can pour from any of them easily into it.

3.) Fill the first vase 1/4 with the material to separate and one half to two thirds of the rest with water.

4.) Using your stir spoon, stir the contents of the vase until you get a nice vortex in the middle going. It's easiest on the vases if you do this by always stirring just above the material settled on the bottom rather than in it. Especially if you're doing diamond as even sand scrapes up the bottom pretty good and pretty quickly - I can only imagine diamond...

5.) Stop stirring, quickly set the vase down and hit the stopwatch.

6.) Watch carefully (you might want to use a flashlight for muddy water - illuminate from the front, not the back - refraction can throw you (it does me anyway - tiny bubbles and tiny grains can look the same in some light).

7.) When only the most course material you want to keep has settled, note exactly how long that took.

8.) Stir again, set down and hit the timer. About 4 or 5 seconds before the time you noted is up, grab the vase and pour the contents very quickly (quickly all the way down until there is very little water left over the settled material) into the second (medium grit) vase.

9.) Repeat steps 4-9 for vase 2, seeking medium grit.

10.) Repeat step 8 for medium grit, pouring contents into vase 3.

11.) Now repeat steps 4-9 for vase 3, seeking the rest of the material you want to keep (you'll lose some of the finest unless you want to be there all day getting it mud free - maybe you do, that's fine too).

12.) Repeat step 8 for fine grit but this time pour the leftover waste into the bucket.

13. When the bucket is full empty it somewhere safe (clay down the drain - bad idea unless you have a really good clay-trap).

14. Add water to the contents of vase 1 and repeat the stir/pour steps for each vase using the noted settling times. Do this until the water is clear enough that it can be used. Totally clearing the water, I'm afraid, takes a lot of water and a long time. Perhaps you can use this with panning of the finals to more easily get them cleaner. I should think, however, that this would leave you with well usable material and rid you of a great deal of super-fine muck pretty quickly.

15.) Once acceptably clear, fill each vase 2/3rds full with water over the materials, stir vigorously and immediately pour into the three remaining vases (one for each grit) to gather most of the materials.

16.) Add more starting material to vase 1 and repeat the entire process to step 14.

17.) Gently drain the excess water from your three final retaining vases before adding more to them by repeating step 15.

This is all pretty intuitive and while it works well for me it may not work, or one mind it 'sucks', for everyone. It's kind of labor intensive but more so in an aerobic way than a heavy lifting way.

The main advantage I can think of would be separation of grits. You can do this all with just two vases if you don't need separation of grits - that is, if you're just after all grits below a given size or all grits as mud free as possible.

A secondary advantage is that if you don't require super fine grits then you will probably be able to get the water pretty clear pretty quickly and with minimal repetitions.

FWIW...

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