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Saw/Grinder

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Author Topic: Saw/Grinder  (Read 1004 times)
RoyKims
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« on: November 13, 2010, 04:42:12 pm »

finished this today. at least this proto..  still needs some some design work (alot bigger table for one). if you have a great 'eye' it's easy to set up for small slabs (2.5 inches max hieght)..  i need a thinner blade for sure.. this one is 1/8'' wide.  suggestions on size. this is a 7'' blade..



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RoyKims
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« Reply #1 on: November 13, 2010, 05:14:34 pm »

ANY critiques and comments are VERY welcome.. this was pretty much made w/materials i already had..
one of the probs i have is the blade is emptying the water pan..

building a polishing vertical lap now...

like i said any comments are more than welcome...
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johnjsgems
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« Reply #2 on: November 13, 2010, 06:55:15 pm »

Looks like it will work.  You need to go with a lapidary blade which means drop down to 6" or redesign to take 8".  7" is strictly a tile blade size which means thick and hard matrix. 
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« Reply #3 on: November 13, 2010, 07:11:00 pm »

Also, no lip around the table top, to contain the water. Any drain holes?
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« Reply #4 on: November 13, 2010, 08:13:28 pm »

Also, no lip around the table top, to contain the water. Any drain holes?

Thats what I noticed too. I see the drain holes, but does seem like there should be a small lip around that table.
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RoyKims
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« Reply #5 on: November 13, 2010, 08:34:23 pm »

Looks like it will work.  You need to go with a lapidary blade which means drop down to 6" or redesign to take 8".  7" is strictly a tile blade size which means thick and hard matrix. 

I've seen 7'' blades with a kerf of .04..  how thin do i need to go???

I'll do the height on the next one..

a rim ??. I'd need to put it on the bottom or put it around the table.?? not much room there.. i also need to figure out some kind of height adjust..
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johnjsgems
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« Reply #6 on: November 14, 2010, 06:28:43 am »

Tile blades I've seen start at about .060-.067.  6" lapidary blades (sintered ) start at .014" .and 8" at .025".  For slabbing thicker is good unless you are cutting valuable material.  Plated blades are available to about .006".  These are core thicknesses.  Rims are slightly thicker.  Saw tables (combination slab/trim saws) have either a raised lip sticking up around table top or cast aluminum flat tops can have a groove in the surface to keep oil/water from running off.  Your blade guard should come down farther and swivel up.  If you properly fill saw (cover cutting rim only) you should have a fast drip at blade guard.  You will still lose coolant but can tell when to add by watching drip rate .  It doesn't lok like you can add a rim on table so might get by with adding drain holes to let coolant drain back into tank.  What is a "height adjustment"?
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RoyKims
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« Reply #7 on: November 14, 2010, 07:18:10 am »

What is a "height adjustment"?

it's to raise/lower the blade..  0-2.5''
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johnjsgems
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« Reply #8 on: November 14, 2010, 07:54:19 am »

Why would you want to raise or lower the blade? 
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RoyKims
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« Reply #9 on: November 14, 2010, 06:05:38 pm »

Why would you want to raise or lower the blade? 

hehe,  must be my woodworking experience .. 
i tried to use the saw with as little of the blade sticking out..
i thought all the saws you all use had this feature..
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johnjsgems
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« Reply #10 on: November 14, 2010, 09:07:12 pm »

Very common for cutting wood.  Pretty unheard of for rock.  You almost never want to cut part way through and rock doesn't "splinter" like thin wood. 
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greenhorn
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« Reply #11 on: November 14, 2010, 09:48:22 pm »

I think height adjust is a great idea. The lack of dado's in lapidary is probably due more to lack of creativity than lack of possibility. Also the lack of adjustable heights in lapidary saws. I would definately like to see a saw with a feature like this.

John, cutting with only 1/8" of blade exposed is not only good to avoid splintering but also cuts faster, if your motor is strong enough.
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« Reply #12 on: November 14, 2010, 10:29:04 pm »

I wouldn't know red from green in the lapidary world but in slab counter top business I was taught to run the blade 1/4 under/pass  the bottom of the  slab. As the blade passed through the material it was just far enough that the diamonds went through the material useing the very outer edge of the blade.
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« Reply #13 on: November 15, 2010, 06:30:28 am »

In that case, it would be easier to use a block on the table than design an arbor that would raise and lower.  Or, use a smaller blade for trimming.
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RoyKims
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« Reply #14 on: November 15, 2010, 03:39:46 pm »

In that case, it would be easier to use a block on the table than design an arbor that would raise and lower.  Or, use a smaller blade for trimming.

of course I've thought of all of this. I'll make a new top out of 1/4'' aluminum 9'' x 14'' and use an 8'' blade.. also a drip edge of Plexiglas..  live and learn... 
anyone know where i could get a SC 6'' x 48'' 100grit belt ??????? I've got a sander that would work great as a shaper ???  it's set up for use with water..

roy
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RoyKims
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« Reply #15 on: November 26, 2010, 03:55:41 pm »

In that case, it would be easier to use a block on the table than design an arbor that would raise and lower.  Or, use a smaller blade for trimming.

hey john,
you're correct.. after looking at what i need i saw it would need the table to move..  the motor is on a swivel so the belt will always run at the rpm produced...

built a new table with an 8'' in mind..  also after 2 day delivery i've picked up an 8'' diamond blade with a .037 kerf.  it's very thin..  will it need adjusting for true?????
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johnjsgems
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« Reply #16 on: November 26, 2010, 07:32:45 pm »

The vise will have to be perpendicular to the  blade.  With blade mounted clamp a magic marker in the vise so it just touches outer edge of blade core.  Slide vise along blade.  Pen should touch entire blade if alligned. 
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RoyKims
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« Reply #17 on: November 27, 2010, 10:42:35 pm »

the blade came yesterday and it's not flat.  I've tried everything i know to get it to track without any wobble to it to no avail

suggestions ???????????
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« Reply #18 on: November 28, 2010, 08:47:52 am »

I would send it back and buy a better quality blade.  If it is a used blade with no warranty you can lay it flat and try hammering but it isn't easy.  Over hammering can stretch the metal and make it worse. 
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« Reply #19 on: November 28, 2010, 06:45:32 pm »


Using the hammering method with a large sledge and a very flat hard surface to eliminate give I succesfully straightend my 14" blade....but.....it wasn't easy and took a lot of patience.

TOG
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« Reply #20 on: January 12, 2011, 08:02:32 pm »

Roy,

I'm attaching a photo of my 6" trim saw so that you can see how the edge is made and the height of the blade in relationship to the table to.  Also the water deflecters.....

Don

PS, Please excuse all the trimmings..........

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RoyKims
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« Reply #21 on: January 13, 2011, 07:31:33 pm »

hey don,
what's your vise look like???
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39don
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« Reply #22 on: January 13, 2011, 11:04:29 pm »

hey don,
what's your vise look like???

Roy,

I don't have a vice on the 6" saw as I just use it as a trim saw only. The 10" has a vice but being that I have a 18" slab saw I very seldom use it.

The 10" I purchase from Sears in the late '60's early '70's. I didn't like the way it cut rough stock as it would ride up on the saw blade. I raised the rod that the vice traveled on plus extened the vice arm which corrected the problem.

I don't have any photos handy but I'll send you some later this week.

Don

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« Reply #23 on: January 16, 2011, 08:21:55 pm »

hey don,
what's your vise look like???

Roy,

I have some photos of the vice that I sort of revamped on my 10" slab/trim saw.

As I said I don't have a vice on the 6" trim saw but most trim saw vices have a slot on the side of vice so it can follow/slide along the side rail/edge of saw top. It's not very hi tech but I'm sure it works for people who saw softer and smaller rough.

Don

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RoyKims
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« Reply #24 on: February 09, 2011, 06:52:49 am »

thanks don,
I've posted ''proto 4" over in Let's talk shop. i think this time is a keeper.. buy i thought that of #1.. i still need to install the water catchers and a gravity feed after i test this.. should be easy except it's labor intensive.. also the grinding wheel will need some work..
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