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Saw/Grinder

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RoyKims
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« on: November 13, 2010, 04:42:12 pm »

finished this today. at least this proto..  still needs some some design work (alot bigger table for one). if you have a great 'eye' it's easy to set up for small slabs (2.5 inches max hieght)..  i need a thinner blade for sure.. this one is 1/8'' wide.  suggestions on size. this is a 7'' blade..



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RoyKims
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« Reply #1 on: November 13, 2010, 05:14:34 pm »

ANY critiques and comments are VERY welcome.. this was pretty much made w/materials i already had..
one of the probs i have is the blade is emptying the water pan..

building a polishing vertical lap now...

like i said any comments are more than welcome...
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johnjsgems
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« Reply #2 on: November 13, 2010, 06:55:15 pm »

Looks like it will work.  You need to go with a lapidary blade which means drop down to 6" or redesign to take 8".  7" is strictly a tile blade size which means thick and hard matrix. 
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hulagrub
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« Reply #3 on: November 13, 2010, 07:11:00 pm »

Also, no lip around the table top, to contain the water. Any drain holes?
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« Reply #4 on: November 13, 2010, 08:13:28 pm »

Also, no lip around the table top, to contain the water. Any drain holes?

Thats what I noticed too. I see the drain holes, but does seem like there should be a small lip around that table.
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RoyKims
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« Reply #5 on: November 13, 2010, 08:34:23 pm »

Looks like it will work.  You need to go with a lapidary blade which means drop down to 6" or redesign to take 8".  7" is strictly a tile blade size which means thick and hard matrix. 

I've seen 7'' blades with a kerf of .04..  how thin do i need to go???

I'll do the height on the next one..

a rim ??. I'd need to put it on the bottom or put it around the table.?? not much room there.. i also need to figure out some kind of height adjust..
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johnjsgems
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« Reply #6 on: November 14, 2010, 06:28:43 am »

Tile blades I've seen start at about .060-.067.  6" lapidary blades (sintered ) start at .014" .and 8" at .025".  For slabbing thicker is good unless you are cutting valuable material.  Plated blades are available to about .006".  These are core thicknesses.  Rims are slightly thicker.  Saw tables (combination slab/trim saws) have either a raised lip sticking up around table top or cast aluminum flat tops can have a groove in the surface to keep oil/water from running off.  Your blade guard should come down farther and swivel up.  If you properly fill saw (cover cutting rim only) you should have a fast drip at blade guard.  You will still lose coolant but can tell when to add by watching drip rate .  It doesn't lok like you can add a rim on table so might get by with adding drain holes to let coolant drain back into tank.  What is a "height adjustment"?
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RoyKims
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« Reply #7 on: November 14, 2010, 07:18:10 am »

What is a "height adjustment"?

it's to raise/lower the blade..  0-2.5''
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johnjsgems
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« Reply #8 on: November 14, 2010, 07:54:19 am »

Why would you want to raise or lower the blade? 
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RoyKims
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« Reply #9 on: November 14, 2010, 06:05:38 pm »

Why would you want to raise or lower the blade? 

hehe,  must be my woodworking experience .. 
i tried to use the saw with as little of the blade sticking out..
i thought all the saws you all use had this feature..
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johnjsgems
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« Reply #10 on: November 14, 2010, 09:07:12 pm »

Very common for cutting wood.  Pretty unheard of for rock.  You almost never want to cut part way through and rock doesn't "splinter" like thin wood. 
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greenhorn
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« Reply #11 on: November 14, 2010, 09:48:22 pm »

I think height adjust is a great idea. The lack of dado's in lapidary is probably due more to lack of creativity than lack of possibility. Also the lack of adjustable heights in lapidary saws. I would definately like to see a saw with a feature like this.

John, cutting with only 1/8" of blade exposed is not only good to avoid splintering but also cuts faster, if your motor is strong enough.
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legendarygranite
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« Reply #12 on: November 14, 2010, 10:29:04 pm »

I wouldn't know red from green in the lapidary world but in slab counter top business I was taught to run the blade 1/4 under/pass  the bottom of the  slab. As the blade passed through the material it was just far enough that the diamonds went through the material useing the very outer edge of the blade.
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johnjsgems
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« Reply #13 on: November 15, 2010, 06:30:28 am »

In that case, it would be easier to use a block on the table than design an arbor that would raise and lower.  Or, use a smaller blade for trimming.
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RoyKims
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« Reply #14 on: November 15, 2010, 03:39:46 pm »

In that case, it would be easier to use a block on the table than design an arbor that would raise and lower.  Or, use a smaller blade for trimming.

of course I've thought of all of this. I'll make a new top out of 1/4'' aluminum 9'' x 14'' and use an 8'' blade.. also a drip edge of Plexiglas..  live and learn... 
anyone know where i could get a SC 6'' x 48'' 100grit belt ??????? I've got a sander that would work great as a shaper ???  it's set up for use with water..

roy
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