1. Tape blade for safety.
2. Cut off tops of center pin and scale pins with a dremel cut off wheel.
3. Pry off one scale with a sharp knife. Be carful not to use much force or you will roll the edge of the liner. It should come off pretty darn easy if you have the pins cut down deep enough.
4. Pry up the scale on the other side with the knife. Put the knife under the scale near the center pin and punch the pin through the scale. If you try to pry off the 2nd side you will pull out the center pin.
5. Pull out the scale pins. They pull out easily.
6. Pein one side of the center pin to spread it so it won't pull out. Tap it flush. Cut off the other side close to flush. Pein it as flush as possible. Be carful not to hit the liner when doing this as it will show as dips on the spine later.
7. Use the cut off wheel to cut the peined pins just a bit lower so there is no chance you will have a high spot.
8. File the liners flat. There are usually slightly high spots at the pin holes. Be sure your file does not hit the center pin. If you do hit the center pin use the dremel and cut off wheel to take down the high spot(s).
9. File the bolsters vertical edges flat. There is usually a slight lip at the top from the factory buffing.
10. Clean the knife well to get out any buffing compound from the factory and put a bit of masking tape over the holes you see.
12. Rough up the liners for the adhesive. Be sure to wear gloves and keep them and the knife liners CLEAN!!! I use the edge of my file for most knives. If you use a dremel drum keep your finger tip over the bolster edge as you can bet the dremel will get away from you and gouge the top lip of the bolster.
11. Cut two tiny pieces of masking tape about 1/10 to 1/8 inch square to go over the holes in the liners that are above the rocker arm at the rear bolster. I use the back of a pair of tweezers to rock back and forth over the tape to get it VERY thin. If you do not do this step you WILL get adhesive on the rocker arm above the tension spring and you will be very, very unhappy with a 110 with no snap.
12. Attach the bolsters with a really good adhesive. I use Loctite 325 for my stone scales.
13. Clean out all of the gunk that will still somehow get into the knife well and between the liners and the rocker arm. If you get "stuff" that gets hard where you can't clean it. It is a bit of a problem but not fatal. You can use a .002 shim that will slip between the liner and rocker arm - even if you are using stone. Trust me I know......
I got asked about how to use loctite 325 and associated adhesive issues so I thought I would add that info here:
Locktite 325 sets up fast enough that you can squeeze a knife in your hands for a minute instead of clamping with tiny clamps like I do, but I do 3 to 6 knives at a time….
As soon as it has set up I wipe off as much as I can that squeezed out. I then wait until I finish gluing the rest of the knives and use goof off to clean out the knife well, blade and the sides of the springs as best I can. I use an old brass knife liner as my tool to reach down into the well and along the sides of the springs.
I leave the knife part way closed to keep the spring exposed a bit and after I clean all of the knives I oil the springs and pivot to ensure no residual adhesive sets up too tight and caused issues. Another reason to close the knife part way is to ensure the liners do not get bowed in enough to drag seriously on the blade when closing the knife. If I suspect dragging I use a couple of .002 shims along the sides of the blade to keep the liners from bowing in, not always a perfect science so I address this issue again below.
No matter how clean you think you kept everything some of the adhesive will finds its way between the springs and liners. So, as I cut the stone I open and close the knife a lot and bits of crud work their way out. After the 140 grit flush cut I use a 1 inch dremel scotch brite wheel to remove any rolled lip along the knife well. This wheel slightly curves the liner edge so the 280 grit through polish do not usually again roll enough the catch on the ricasso. (A ricasso is a part of sword and knife blades. It is the section just above the guard or handle. It is sometimes unsharpened and unbevelled.) I use a scotch brite wheel to remove the drag marks on this part of the blade before I do the final metal polish. If you do – be careful to have the wheel running from top of the blade down so that if you roll the wheel over the edge you do not mar the polished spine of the blade – I polish the blade spines while cutting and polishing the springs and liners (spine).
When I finish I clean the knife springs and liners again with goof off and use a thin pick to remove any spots of adhesive or old buffing compound off the blade, pivot area and the sides of the liners and springs. If the blade(s) do not “snap” it is usually due to crud in the pivot area or where the sides of the blade drag along the inside of the liners or the liner lip can get rolled a bit and drag.
Sometimes I need to file high spots off the inside of the liners too. Most pocket knives (not a Buck 110) have a lot of play in the liners and scales of the knife. When you put on stone there is absolutely no play and while holding the knife tight or even while it is in tiny clamps the liners can bow inward enough to rub on the knife ricasso area. Using a scotch brite wheel on the ricasso scratches also lowers the potential liner drag issue. You are dealing with only a .001 to .002 clearance on most knives.
Here is the link to the full length tutorial. http://www.allaboutpocketknives.com/tutorials/art_in_stone/index.php