Overcome those pesky flat spots on your cab perimeters.
Thought I might just share what works best for me.
The use of a "rest" is vital. Makes it much easier than tyring to free hand. I will always end up with totally messed up perimeters and uneven girdles trying to shape the perimeter freehand. It's ten times more difficult when the material has varying areas of hardness that are difficult enough just trying to conquer the undercutting.
Using a rest will keep the preform steadier as compared to freehand. Eliminates most undercutting trials and tribulations. Plue the girdles will be even and perpendular to the cab.
Here are a couple of short clips showing how it works for me. Most important is long sweeping motions. Shaping the initial perimeter.. Perfecting,fine tuning the perimeter
Concentrate on the same long sweeping motions, but it is now also more important to keep steady pressures too.
By using the rest you can keep a nice even pressure.
Keep the cab moving. Nice long movements so as to eliminate flat spots that can easily happen when trying to freehand.
I work the perimeter like this through the 100, 220, 400 to my finest 600 diamond wheel. That way I can usually just very lightly hit the perimeter up through the different silicon carbide belts.
Something else that works well for me is having my rest just off center from the wheels. I like getting a bit of a girdle slope during the process
. A guy could initially slope the girdle even more by making the rest even a little more off center.
Easier to make matching sized cabs too. Just hold them up and together to see where you need to fine tune one or the other. You can match of several matching cabs pretty easily.
I use a simple 2 x 4 as a rest on my Highland Park unit. With a piece of tile on it so that the cab will move more freely rather than just being on the wood. A person could use a piece of tin, or any other smoothed smooth materials.
Hope this help, and happy cabbing !