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How to make a Step Bezel

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Author Topic: How to make a Step Bezel  (Read 31482 times)
Steve
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« on: May 26, 2010, 11:47:39 am »

1.  For this simple project I will be starting with a 22x18mm Lemon Amber Cab.



2.  Set bezel tape to size of stone and cut.  I’m using 3/16” bezel tape. To insure the cut edges are flat I use a pair of parallel pliers to insure they are flat.  Then working the edges together so that the two sides are completely touching, flux, heat and solder closed.



3.  Pickle and dress the bezel tape.  Using a ring mandrel and a very fine file, I file the outside solder joint clean of any imperfections from the soldering process.



4.  Re-fit bezel tape for correct size and re-form to cab shape.



5.  Solder to backing sheet to form the bezel cup.  In this application I am using a piece of sheet larger than the cab size because I will be adding an outside accent ring of round wire to the bezel cup.



6.  In this case I am using 20g round wire for the inside step to support the stone.  Form the wire around the inside to get an approximation of the length needed, mark (I use a scribe) and cut a little longer then necessary.





7.  Take the cut piece and form it to the inside of the bezel cup insuring a tight fit to the sides, mark and trim to the correct size. Insert wire into cup to insure a tight tip-to-tip fit.  For this application I will be using two wire rings for the step to get the desired cab height.



8.  Insert the wire(s), flux and solder generously.  When using two or more step rings DONOT place the tips for each ring in the same location – alternate them.



9.  Drill a small hole inside the bezel cup to allow your jeweler’s saw blade through the backing sheet and cut out the backing along the edge of the bezel step.





10.   Now, dress the inside edge of the cut out bezel cup to eliminate any imperfections and saw marks using files, finishing with the finest file you have or sand paper.  You know have made a Stepped Bezel.





11.   At this point I will be adding the accent ring around the outside of the bezel cup.  In this case I will be using 14g round wire. As with fitting the inside wire the idea is the same – wrap the wire around to get an approximate size, mark and cut a little longer than necessary.  Annealing the wire makes easier to bend around the bezel cup.





12.   Now fit the outside ring to your satisfaction, mark and cut.  Here I file the cut edges flat to eliminate the cut marks from my cutter and to insure a flush fit from both ends.



13.   Solder wire closed and remove any excess solder from around the solder joint.  At this point I anneal the ring again for easier workability to re-fit around the bezel cup. Adjust and re-solder the ring as necessary for a good fit.








14.   Solder the ring to the bezel cup being generous with the solder to insure a good fill all around the ring and cup. 



15.   Once you are satisfied with the proper solder fill around the ring and cup cut off the excess backing sheet and finish.  I use a jeweler’s saw and a fine Craytex wheel for this.



16.   The final steps are to finish the piece by adding the bale loop and chain bale.  For this set-up I will be using 18g round wire for the bale loop and 24g sheet for the bale.

17.   Since the rear area is limited in depth I’ll make the bale loop to fit within the area available.  With 1 ½” of wire I make a closed loop using round nosed pliers and solder closed.  Then using my ring mandrel a bend the bale loop ends to match the curve of the bezel cup and solder it on.





18.   To construct the bale I use either 26g or 24g sheet cut to 1”x3/8” with a long side center-line as a guide for bending.  Cut off the 4 corners to the center-line to make the diamond shape and bend as shown in the photo.



19.   Last but not least attach the bale through the bale loop and all the assembly will be completed.

20.   Polish the assembly, insert the stone and set the bezel…….and you’re done,………

Front 

Back 




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bigdogpc
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« Reply #1 on: May 26, 2010, 12:43:45 pm »

BRAVO!  Well done and great step by step!
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Taogem
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« Reply #2 on: May 26, 2010, 12:46:56 pm »

Beautiful work !

This is more of a cut as compared to making a step type bezel tape.

Ron posted an excellent process for making step bezel tape. I can't find it and am surprised that I did not pin it here.

If you see this Ron, can you find it ?

Thanks for sharing this Steve !! Most excellent ! yes
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hulagrub
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« Reply #3 on: May 26, 2010, 12:52:21 pm »

Steve, WOW! Charlotte will just love this!
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azsavit
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« Reply #4 on: May 26, 2010, 02:41:38 pm »

Fantastic tutorial. Thanks!
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thewrightthings
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« Reply #5 on: May 26, 2010, 03:38:30 pm »

Steve, great tutorial with wonderful, succinct directions and clear photos for each step of the process.  Bravo!!
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Charlotte
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« Reply #6 on: May 26, 2010, 06:52:52 pm »

Steve, thank you so much for this post!  The photos are wonderful.  I am going to try doing one tomorrow.  Once again, thank you!
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Bluesssman
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« Reply #7 on: May 26, 2010, 08:43:24 pm »

Sweet, Steve, thanks so much for your inspiration!!


Gary
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ScarlettoSara
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« Reply #8 on: May 26, 2010, 08:52:43 pm »

er... I think I am in love:)
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« Reply #9 on: May 26, 2010, 09:11:39 pm »

Your tutorials are always top-notch. Thank you so much for sharing your techniques. I imagine that you are helping a lot of us grow as smiths.
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Steve
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« Reply #10 on: May 27, 2010, 09:32:36 am »

Thankx all for the complements.......just trying to pass on what I've learned.......
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ScarlettoSara
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« Reply #11 on: May 27, 2010, 06:12:24 pm »

I really like this color amber too. I have an amber necklace I wear all the time.
Steve do you mind telling me where  you buy your silver from please?
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Steve
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« Reply #12 on: May 27, 2010, 09:16:07 pm »

Sara.........I buy my silver at either Thunderbird or Indian Jewelry Supply here in town..........that's one of the perks of living down at the corner of walk-don't-walk in one of the Southwests jewelry hubs..........I also have very good access to fantastic stones...............

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« Reply #13 on: May 27, 2010, 09:38:06 pm »

Steve,

Is the bail loop assembly made as one piece or do you make the loop solder it closed and then solder it to another piece of wire?
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« Reply #14 on: May 28, 2010, 10:45:13 am »

Steve,

Is the bail loop assembly made as one piece or do you make the loop solder it closed and then solder it to another piece of wire?

The bale loop is of one piece construction:









After the last bend just solder it closed and bend it to the shape you need.  Also, the ends don't always end up the same length.  So, the long side will need to be trimmed to the size of the shortest.
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