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Hydroplaning/Suction with Flat Lap?

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James D. Farrow
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« on: March 01, 2016, 11:03:59 am »

Holy mackerel. When I get up to the finer discs (1200, etc..) I run
into 2 problems.

Hydroplaning - If I use a lot of water the stone hydroplanes.
At first I couldn't figure out why the disc wasn't sanding off
the silver coloring I covered the bottom of the stone with using a Sharpie.
It has to be flat. I just sanded off the color at 800 grit. Then I realized
the stone was actually floating on the water. Wasn't hardly touching
the disc.

Suction - So of course I press harder and then the stone sticks to
the discs like you know what to a blanket. Sometimes the suction is
so intense I have to stop the flat lap and sort of pry it off.

Why haven't I read about this here?  lol
I guess I missed something or .....

So many times I have read use lots and lots of water. But I have to
turn it down.

Anyone else experience this?

Oh, and at the higher grits the stones get as slippery as an eel to boot.

Great Fun!  woohoo2

James
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James D. Farrow
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jakesrocks
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« Reply #1 on: March 01, 2016, 11:46:53 am »

Don't know about hydroplaning, but the suction problem is easy to cure. Just grind a slight bevel all around the outside edge of your stone. It allows just enough water under the stone to prevent suction.
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James D. Farrow
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« Reply #2 on: March 01, 2016, 12:05:50 pm »

I do bevel them but only at the 240 grit stage. Not much though
as I like edges but you can't not bevel a bit as they can be as sharp
as a razor if left the way they are at the grinding stage.

I find if I do it before that stage I can bevel to much in one spot
than in another. Then you end up playing that game of a little off
here, oh, a little more here. Back and forth. LOL!

James
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James D. Farrow
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"No more trains will be sold once the magazine leaves the station"
Hummingbirdstones
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« Reply #3 on: March 01, 2016, 05:44:13 pm »

You only need a steady drip of water on the lap for flat lap purposes, otherwise, as you've found out, hydroplaning happens. 
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James D. Farrow
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« Reply #4 on: March 02, 2016, 06:38:16 am »

Thanks!

Even at a dribble at 1500 grit it still takes lots of pressure to sand the
silver color off the back.

Having fun though!

James
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James D. Farrow
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« Reply #5 on: March 02, 2016, 07:57:44 am »

James, why don't you try using a pencil to cover the back of your cabs instead of a silver Sharpie?  Whatever they use in the metallic colored ones is way more difficult to remove than pencil or even a plain black sharpie.  I use to use the metallic pens for outlining my stained glass pieces on the glass to cut out because they were more waterproof than anything else I tried and the pattern would disappear on me halfway thru cutting it out.
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« Reply #6 on: March 02, 2016, 09:07:01 am »

You might want to try not using anything and just have a bright light over the machine and look at the reflection to see where it needs more sanding. That is how I do it.
Bob
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James D. Farrow
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« Reply #7 on: March 02, 2016, 02:54:07 pm »

I actually wanted it to be more difficult to remove.

I tried the higher grits without the color and could not tell if it was working or not.
At the higher grits you would swear the discs were smooth. A couple of times I
actually checked it wasn't upside down. LOL!

With the silver color I know it's working and can't miss any spot.
It also stops me from being impatient and hurrying up to the next grit up.

I also like using it to highlight pits, big scratches, etc... before I get to the higher grits.
That way I don't find a scratch at the higher grit discs and have to back up to a lower grit
to remove it. My eyes aren't as good as they used to be so it's easy to miss a pit or scratch.

James

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James D. Farrow
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