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Taogem
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« on: May 19, 2009, 10:32:29 pm » |
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I just don't want to mess this up so need to ask of anyone who has purchased a Rio blank.
Looking down on the ring it looks like I might need to bend the entire setting outward. All the little floral designs and the four prongs as well..
Has anyone else had to do this, and with limited jewelry type tools, what is the safest way to bend everything outward without wrinkling, or damaging the little floral and prong setting?
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mirkaba
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« Reply #1 on: May 20, 2009, 10:26:00 am » |
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I don't know if I can be of much help here. I tried to set an amethyst in a similar ring and actually collapsed the ring with finger pressure. Since then I try to deal with bulkier rings. If I had to do it now I would support the ring on a mandrel and 'gently' manipulate the prongs and base with the pliers. I have also ground all of my pliers down smooth to avoid marring the metal. I recently set a 5x7 stone in a 14k filigree type ring using only pliers and mandrel. I had to cut the seat down a little as it had a casting flaw and it worked out great. Bob
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Gathering dust in Montana.
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CosmicFolklore
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« Reply #2 on: May 20, 2009, 06:48:55 pm » |
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I haven't ever dealt with this exact ring type, but I did have a customer bring me one similar. I can't tell in the picture whether your going to get a clear shot at getting the stone in, but they don't have to be bent beyond 90 degrees. I would recommend leaving the prongs and such as close to closed as possible. You may have to work the stone in with a wiggle. Put it on a mandrel and use a dowel or maybe a wooden dop to push the prongs, open and closed. The metal in cast settings is porous and soft. You can harden it up best when you polish (work harden), but I wouldn't touch it with metal pliers, unless you are an excellent hand at it. Personally, I would just use wood to push and pull, polish, and then burnish the prongs closed the microscopic rest of the way.
Maybe that sort of helps.
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Spots Mom
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« Reply #3 on: May 20, 2009, 08:11:36 pm » |
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I think CosmicFoklore is definately going the right direction. I 've used a prong pusher (3 " length of square steel in a handle, about 1/6" squaare. I filed the edges so they were not quiet so sharp and sanded the face so it was not quite as smooth and would grip a little.
Then I'll use the pusher to gently open up a setting or close it as needed. Before I move any metal, I do dry fittings to double check, then begin to move the alternate prongs gently into place.
I've used dowels too, and pieces of polished copper and brass.
A steel, highly polished burnisher rubbed firmly on the metal might help with the porosity, too.
Just my thoughts.
Stayc
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mirkaba
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« Reply #4 on: May 21, 2009, 07:47:12 am » |
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Sorry George..Don't know where my head was at yesterday. I just set 4 opals in some really cool Rio settings. The prongs on most settings I have seen from Rio are more pegs than prongs and they are typically work hardened. It is up to the stone setter to shape the prongs. On this last batch I annealed the prongs rather than shape them. I do not think this is an option on your ring as you will soften the rest of the setting also. I generally cut a gentle curve on the inside of the prong being careful to not remove to much metal. As for pliers that is entirely your option. I have 14 pairs of pliers on my bench and have opted to do something other than pull nose hairs with them. If you have no prong setter/closer and your prongs are geometrically opposed you can can close the prongs by placing the jaws vertically on opposite prongs and rolling lifting the pliers. With discretion of course. The rolling action slightly burnishes the prong as it comes over. Also this technique takes the pressure off of the filligree in the setting. Heres a pic of one of my opals. I did not shape the prongs (for the first time) I annealed the prongs and placed one jaw under the setting and one on top of the prong at a 45 degree angle and gently rolled the prongs into place. These are pretty neat semi bezel prong settings and were only about 6 or 7 dollars apiece. The opals are all 8x10 and I did 4 of these settings. Turned out great! And notice I did not break or chip the opal! Sorry about the picture was kinda late when I took it. Anyway I would use the pliers to bend the prongs and setting out just enought to accomadate the stone. If you shape the inside of the prongs it will give you a little more wiggle room. Hope this helps......... Bob  |
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« Last Edit: May 21, 2009, 07:56:56 am by mirkaba »
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Gathering dust in Montana.
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Taogem
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« Reply #5 on: May 21, 2009, 08:24:29 am » |
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The prongs on most settings I have seen from Rio are more pegs than prongs and they are typically work hardened. It is up to the stone setter to shape the prongs. On this last batch I annealed the prongs rather than shape them. I do not think this is an option on your ring as you will soften the rest of the setting also.
Your right about them being more pegs than prongs.. I gave an attempt to try and just push them up against the stone with no success. I thought about the idea of cutting a little curve/notch into the inside of them, but since I had no success bending them in the first place was afraid would just end up breaking the prong at that notch if I tried to push on it.. They are pretty solid. Maybe it was the wrong thing to do, but ended up gluing the stone in.. I must admit that it was a bit disappointing to have to do it this way. I don't care for the idea of gluing stones in. Lesson learned... I am going to be purchasing two more woman's rings in a couple weeks, and will pay much closer attention to the setting. May end up purchasing blanks and soldering the bezel settings to the tops myself. Still a pretty ring and it made a nice gift.. |
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mirkaba
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« Reply #6 on: May 21, 2009, 08:46:00 am » |
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It looks great George! About the glue..........I used to use a little dab to hold the stone in place but always felt bad about it. As I got better I stopped. Then I discovered E-6000 epoxy!! Great stuff!!! I started using it for backing in bezel sets. Then For cushions on seats of prong settings. It drys like rubber cement and holds fast until you want to peel it off. And of course it is wonderful for glue in/on type settings. I did a couple cats eyes in glue ins last week. Love the stuff.........Bob
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Gathering dust in Montana.
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Spots Mom
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« Reply #7 on: May 21, 2009, 09:20:36 am » |
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Since the prong is more peg-like, could you take a burr-round, burr in your dremel/flexshaft or round/half-round needle file, and take off just a tiny bit ono the inside of the peg, then use some type of sanding/filing the round the top of the peg and soften that look?
Bob does a great job of describing setting the stone and obviously sets a pretty stone!
Stacy
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Taogem
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« Reply #8 on: May 21, 2009, 09:28:34 am » |
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Since the prong is more peg-like, could you take a burr-round, burr in your dremel/flexshaft or round/half-round needle file, and take off just a tiny bit ono the inside of the peg, then use some type of sanding/filing the round the top of the peg and soften that look?
Stacy
I could, but still would have to somehow force that peg inward and over the stone. The darn peg is just too solid.. More like a darn stud.. |
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mirkaba
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« Reply #9 on: May 21, 2009, 10:39:02 am » |
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Stacy......I use a worn medium grit SC impregnated rubber wheel trimmed down to a knife edge. This one is not quite small enough yet. " I am cheap" It does not take a big bite and can be followed up with bristle brushes to clean the piece up........Bob  |
Gathering dust in Montana.
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Taogem
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After thinking about it, maybe it would have been a bit risky, but could have trimmed each of the posts enough so could be pushed.. Following the notching idea..
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Spots Mom
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Bob,
Love your cheap idea! The whole idea is to take small, controlled bites of the metal.
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