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Need Help - Dop Stick Wax Won't Stick

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Author Topic: Need Help - Dop Stick Wax Won't Stick  (Read 9696 times)
Roger
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« Reply #45 on: October 30, 2011, 10:38:41 pm »

For me I use the black wax. Melts a little Quicker. I put my cabs on a hot plate to get  those sweet things warm. The was melts in a pot. Let might sticks warm in the dop pot with the wax. I bring out a blob with the stick and put it on the back side of the cab. I use my hand torch and heat up the wax justttttt until the wax flows. When its right it wont release until you put it in the freezer.  clapper
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urbtaf
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« Reply #46 on: February 09, 2013, 03:06:51 pm »

A type of dop stick I have used for quite a few years, I used to use nails, point cut off to be safe, then I came across a cheap screwdriver set ( the type with detachable ends) I use the box spanner ends, the photo below should make it clear, I use E-6000 and sometimes green jem superglue (industrial)
And a bit off topic if the photo works! a pic of our double decker system for cabbing machines, very handy when space is in short supply


* 09-02-2013 001.JPG (161.32 KB, 640x480 - viewed 25 times.)

* 09-02-2013 002.JPG (162.43 KB, 640x480 - viewed 12 times.)
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Rockoteer
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« Reply #47 on: February 11, 2013, 04:36:27 pm »


I like that idea with the screwdriver drivers and the socket end drivers ??  E6000 ---and it comes off does it?  In the freezer??
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-Gary

Of all the things I've lost..I miss my mind the most.

Whether you think you can, or you think you can't, you're probably right.
urbtaf
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« Reply #48 on: February 12, 2013, 01:50:16 pm »


I like that idea with the screwdriver drivers and the socket end drivers ??  E6000 ---and it comes off does it?  In the freezer??
E6000 comes off with a sharp blade, but a bit of freezing helps if there is a problem or hold the metal bit in a pair of pliers and apply a bit of heat, the stone will drop off.
Forgot to mention you can use the scewdriver handle it give a really comfy grip particularly when doing the polishing stages.
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madfabricator
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« Reply #49 on: April 08, 2013, 11:52:33 pm »

There where a lot of post and I did not read em all. So I may be redundant here. 
I normally don't use a dop stick, but if I have to on small stones.....
The trick I have learned is not the sticking but the removing. If you throw your stone in the freezer for 5 minutes or so they just pop right off with little wax left on... And little to no chance of the stone breaking.
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Troy
I do three kinds of work, good, fast and cheap. I can only do two at a time. If you want it good and cheap it won't be fast. If you want it fast and cheap it won't be good. If you want it good and fast it won't be cheap.
mick B
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« Reply #50 on: April 09, 2013, 02:57:21 am »

I have been using this Inland dop station for a few months now, does work ok but it would be better with a temp control, don,t think its quite hot enough for most stones, great flat sections to pre heat both stone and stick, I make my own stainless dops, being a stainless fabricator I have heaps of scrap lying around, I tig weld the ends on, I think dops give heaps better control.
Stainless works great, I rough it with scotch brite they only come off in the freezer, the small stainless rod is 8mm and the large one is 3/4 tube.


* Dop station.jpg (111.11 KB, 783x549 - viewed 5 times.)
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Ltpaulbtv
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« Reply #51 on: June 18, 2013, 09:59:35 am »

  All my work is done by holding the stones with my fingers.   I have worked with Wello opals smaller than the size of my baby finger nail and ended up with a .05 Caret stone.  It is not a easy task doing this but it was the way I learned when I started beveling glass.  I have experimented using a furniture shellac stick and it seems to work ok.  Sometimes the stones do loosen up and fling across the room , but that happens anyways.  Every method has its pluses it's what method works the best for you that matters the most.  I've seen a lot of work done by many people on this forum and seen some very beautiful stones.  What ever method you use is what you should stay with.  Experimenting is part of learning new methods and fine tuning your ability to produce fine looking cabochons.  Everybody on this forum wants to produce the finest quality cabs as possible.  Thanks to all the people that post great information so that others may learn the craft from the eyes of others.  That why we are here!!
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Talusman
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« Reply #52 on: January 28, 2015, 05:32:53 pm »

My machine is set up in an Unheated garage - I've had trouble loosing stones from green wax when the temp of the water gets close to freezing. I'm going to try the superglue method. I also thought a wax with a low melting point might work in the cold temps - does anyone know a source for Don's Dop wax? A Google search came up empty.

Thanks!

-Jeremy
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Justin
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« Reply #53 on: January 28, 2015, 08:58:22 pm »

My machine is set up in an Unheated garage - I've had trouble loosing stones from green wax when the temp of the water gets close to freezing. I'm going to try the superglue method. I also thought a wax with a low melting point might work in the cold temps - does anyone know a source for Don's Dop wax? A Google search came up empty.

Thanks!

-Jeremy

I don't know about Don's Dop wax but I have a cool garage (thankfully not freezing) and I lose stones too. I have had good success with elmers glue to stick stones back on wax. You have to give it a full day to cure but I have not had one come off in the water of the cabbing machine. It does come off easily after soaking in water for 24 hrs. Not the quick solution, but it does not require super glue and solvent.
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Talusman
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« Reply #54 on: February 01, 2015, 05:00:27 pm »

I tried out superglue on nails and I'm a convert! 5 cabs tonight and none lost - even with ice forming on my grinding wheel. I used 2" roofing nails, sanded the heads flat, cleaned them and the stones with acetone and then placed a tiny square of tissue paper on the stones. Put a drop of super glue on the nail, then pressed it hard on the stone for 20 seconds. I grabbed the nail with a jeweler's hand vise and it gave really great control.

Haven't tried to take them off yet, but so far so good!

-Jeremy
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Talusman
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« Reply #55 on: February 10, 2015, 04:59:20 am »

Update - superglue held up great through cabbing. No luck getting stones off with heat, but an overnight soak in acetone and they popped right off.

-Jeremy
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Windenzee
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« Reply #56 on: March 11, 2015, 01:43:32 pm »

Dopping stones is one of my achilles heels. Thanks for all the advice that has been posted.
One querry - do you keep the stone on the dop stick till after the final polishing stages?
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Karen
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« Reply #57 on: March 11, 2015, 03:16:02 pm »

Certainly,.....
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caveman420
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« Reply #58 on: May 01, 2015, 12:53:36 pm »

i inherited some wax in a metal measuring cup, and failed over and over again for it to work.
a couple of weeks ago i was watching youtube videos to figure this thing out…. alas, some old man said, "temp. of about 160 degree F…. don't let it boil or it will lose it's properties'
i dumped the old, put in some new,   started to do the stick stickem' thing when the wax was only slightly melted, not liquid… more like a taffy…i made sure the rock was warm, slammed them together and now i am having the problem of getting them off nicely…. they really stick good.
paul
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39don
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« Reply #59 on: May 06, 2015, 05:30:43 am »

i inherited some wax in a metal measuring cup, and failed over and over again for it to work.
a couple of weeks ago i was watching youtube videos to figure this thing out…. alas, some old man said, "temp. of about 160 degree F…. don't let it boil or it will lose it's properties'
i dumped the old, put in some new,   started to do the stick stickem' thing when the wax was only slightly melted, not liquid… more like a taffy…i made sure the rock was warm, slammed them together and now i am having the problem of getting them off nicely…. they really stick good.
paul

Place the mounted cabs in the freezer for about 12 to 20 minutes. Be careful when removing them from freezer some will fall right off.
Don
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