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Need Help - Dop Stick Wax Won't Stick

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Author Topic: Need Help - Dop Stick Wax Won't Stick  (Read 9333 times)
39don
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« Reply #30 on: February 13, 2011, 07:25:23 am »

Hi Don.......Have you ever tried sticking your dopped cabs in the freezer. In an hour or so they usually just fall off the sticks or pop off with small pressure. I usually leave 5 or 6 dop sticks in my tuna can wax melter all the time. If I take some out I replace them.  As the dop wax heats so do the sticks that are immersed in it. Just drip/twist off any excess and stick it on the heated cab. There is always wax on the sticks whether they are in the pot or cold in storage.

Bob, I tried the freezer method of removing the stones and it worked super.

Thanks,

Don
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bobby1
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« Reply #31 on: February 13, 2011, 07:35:54 am »

I also use the freezer method to remove the cab from the dopstick but I place the cab directly on the floor of the freezer with the dopstick pointing up. It only takes about 5 minutes for the cab to separate, but be very careful because if you reach in and grab the dopstick  and lift it up sometimes the cab sticks to it briefly enough to come flying out and fall on the floor and break. I always lift the dopstick up and place my hand under the cab to catch it.
Bob
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39don
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« Reply #32 on: February 13, 2011, 07:46:09 am »

I also use the freezer method to remove the cab from the dopstick but I place the cab directly on the floor of the freezer with the dopstick pointing up. It only takes about 5 minutes for the cab to separate, but be very careful because if you reach in and grab the dopstick  and lift it up sometimes the cab sticks to it briefly enough to come flying out and fall on the floor and break. I always lift the dopstick up and place my hand under the cab to catch it.
Bob

Bob,

I placed mine on the botton in the freezer and checked within 10 minutes and it came off or was off when I picked it up and I was totally surprised. Nice to have an extra frig in the garage for this quick method.

Will be using this method from now on.

Don

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Isotelus
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« Reply #33 on: February 21, 2011, 04:37:31 pm »

Hi

I have always used an electric dop pot for all of my non heat sensitive stones, I too use the green wax most of the time. I have found the slabs must be free of saw oil and (clean)and must be warm or the wax will not stick. Make sure your wax is fresh and has not been overheated ( left in the pot for hours and hours ) turn off the pot if your not using it. Also if you find a kind of dry green residue in the very bottom of your dop pots it has always been a signal to me to replace the wax. My dop pot has about a two inch deep well and holds about a stick of wax.

As far as removing stones, here is a trick. Let the stone cool off if it is warm or hot from dopping or maybe polishing.  Pop it in the freezer compartment of you refrigerator I always put dop and stone in a plastic container the stones tend to fall of easily and you  dont want to loose them in some inaccessible part of the freezer. Mostly they just fall off after about ten minutes or need a little push off the stick

For wax residue left on the stone after the freezer trick I usually wipe it off with acetone be sure to keep the acetone away from open flames for you folks that use an alcohol lamp to dop.

Hope this helps.
                                               
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« Reply #34 on: April 26, 2011, 02:48:53 pm »

I got so sick and tired of this problem that I have taken to learning to cab without dopping. It is a bit more of a challenge, especially when it comes to getting flat spots out. The initial problem was grinding off my thumb and fingers, but over time they have toughened up a bit and occasionally they actually do hit the grinding surface. I used to be afraid of that, but not anymore. Of course, if I have my wishes come through and some day get a faceting machine I definitely will have to learn to keep the stone on the stick. I've heard from a few folks that they use epoxy for this.
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« Reply #35 on: April 26, 2011, 02:55:03 pm »

   super glue gel from the 99 cent store has been working well for me
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« Reply #36 on: April 26, 2011, 05:48:30 pm »

   super glue gel from the 99 cent store has been working well for me

Jon, does the freezer method of removal work?

TOG  (I am sure the answer is here somewhere but the lazy bug bit the crap out of me)
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« Reply #37 on: April 26, 2011, 06:23:22 pm »

   super glue gel from the 99 cent store has been working well for me

Jon, does the freezer method of removal work?

TOG  (I am sure the answer is here somewhere but the lazy bug bit the crap out of me)

I've been using Super Glue (SG) for a long time now.  I prefer the watery type, but then again I've never tried the jelly.  To dop a stone I use flat head framing nails I've sanded smooth and flat - probably the 8~10 penny size - then I cut a piece of paper 1/4~3/8" square or so (the cheaper the paper the better) - a drop of SG on the nail head to pick up the paper then a drop on the back of the stone where I want it to stick.  It usually sets up in about 10 seconds and I'm ready to go.

There are three ways I remove the nail from the back: 1 - If I know (believe) the stone is solid I simply snap it off while holding the stone firmly around the head of the nail;  2- Using my torch I'll heat the nail - away from the stone - until the glue is liquid and slides off easily; and  3 - I use the freezer to cool a stone then snap the stone off - this is my least favored.

The heating of the nail works well even with softer stones like turquoise, serpentine and malachite......

The paper between the nail and the stone sheers much easier than just the nail to the stone.  Scrape off the left over paper & glue with an Xacto knife and you're rocking.............to set the stone..........  yes .....it works good for me.....just another option in a field with so-many-options.................... bricks
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« Reply #38 on: April 26, 2011, 06:55:49 pm »

    the crazy glue gel releases easily with acetone after 10 mins....but if you used epoxy 330 to fill some gaps on your cabs, don't use the acetone =)  or you'll be refilling them
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Taogem
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« Reply #39 on: April 26, 2011, 07:26:16 pm »

   super glue gel from the 99 cent store has been working well for me

Jon, does the freezer method of removal work?

TOG  (I am sure the answer is here somewhere but the lazy bug bit the crap out of me)

To dop a stone I use flat head framing nails I've sanded smooth and flat - probably the 8~10 penny size - then I cut a piece of paper 1/4~3/8" square or so (the cheaper the paper the better) - a drop of SG on the nail head to pick up the paper then a drop on the back of the stone where I want it to stick.  It usually sets up in about 10 seconds and I'm ready to go.



I have not tried the paper !  I can see how that would help a lot for removing without damaging the back of a cab.

I also use the exact same super glue/nail techique now, and also much prefer the torch over freezer.
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39don
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« Reply #40 on: April 26, 2011, 07:57:00 pm »

I love the freezer with the dop wax. I use the dop wax due to most of my cabs are rather large and the wax method is easier for me....... yippie

Don
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bgast1
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« Reply #41 on: April 26, 2011, 10:25:17 pm »

Thanks for the superglue tips. I have some Gorilla Glue brand superglue. I am going to try that tomorrow and I hope it will work. I am also glad that I misread the instructions for releasing the stone the first time. Experience tells me that if you heat the stone with a torch that it will turn black and sometimes goes all the way through and turns black on the other side. Heating the nail makes much more sense. I never thought that the glue would penetrate through the paper.
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Isotelus
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« Reply #42 on: May 03, 2011, 11:57:04 am »

I have always used paper between the stone and metal ( nail ) dop sticks.  The paper seems to aid in removal by allowing solvent ( acetone, etc. ) to wick in between the dop stick and stone. This is especially true with metal dop sticks.

As a mute testament, sitting in a jar of solvent for five years I have a very fine 6x8 Opal cab stuck to the end of a finish nail with just epoxy between the opal and the nail. Both the back of the Opal and the nail were ground flat on a 600 mesh disk before gluing the dop stick on. To  say I got a good bond is an understatement. I have used paper in between ever since and have gotten them all off with little trouble.

For a solvent jar I like one of those tall glass jars that stuffed green olives come in. I keep about an inch of Acetone in the bottom and the tall jar provides plenty of room for the dop stick be it wood or metal.
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Bryan
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« Reply #43 on: May 03, 2011, 02:04:40 pm »

Won't the acetone ruin some types of stone?
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Isotelus
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« Reply #44 on: May 13, 2011, 11:05:12 am »

I mostly use this cold epoxy dop with opal solids both precious fire opal and common types . Do not use acetone on doublets or triplets or any other type of assembled stones.

 That said I would not use the acetone soak on any turquoise that I knew or thought was treated with any of the many plastic resins that have been used. Some dyes might also be soluble . I still just hot dop my turquoise  with regular dop waxes and remove them in the freezer. Ive never lost one.
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Bryan


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