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Need Help - Dop Stick Wax Won't Stick

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Author Topic: Need Help - Dop Stick Wax Won't Stick  (Read 9333 times)
bobby1
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« Reply #15 on: January 07, 2010, 05:19:03 pm »

Neural,
I use a different dop wax for Opals. It is called Don's Dop. It is very sticky and it melts at a lower temperature. You don't heat the opal very much either. I use an alcohol lamp to heat the dop wax ( already on the dop stick) and hold the Opal in my fingers near the flame. When the wax gets soft and slightly starts to flow I stick them together and reheat the cab/dop in the flame a little to get the wax to flow against the cab. Before touching the heated wax dip your fingers in a container of soapy water and shape the wax against the cab. You must have soap (I use cheap liquid dish hand washing soap) or the hot wax WILL stick to your fingers. The cab doesn't need to be heated nearly as much with this dop wax as with the green stuff. I've been using this stuff for 25 years or so and haven't cracked an Opal yet.
To remove the cab from the dop stick I gently heat the wax (not the cab) and when the wax gets soft, I dip a single edge razor blade in the soapy water and slice the cab away from the stick.
 Here are some photos of the wax.


Some teaser photos of a 16 gram piece of Australian Opal that I've had for 25 years and haven't decided yet what to make with it. Really, I'm not a procrastinator, am I???????
Bob

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Neural
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« Reply #16 on: January 07, 2010, 05:41:27 pm »

Bob:  Good info.  Didn't know there was a lower melt point wax available.

I need to be clear that I'm not blaming the Inland dop station for any cracks that I've had.  I've not had any crack on me yet.  I'm just wanting to let others know ahead of time because it is something to watch for.

That piece of opal rough is beautiful, and a nice size too!  You'll get a nice cut from that one.  :D
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ScarlettoSara
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« Reply #17 on: January 07, 2010, 06:07:30 pm »

Dang Bob:) Create one of your heirloom looking pieces with it.
I know you are wonderful designer Bob. YOu have much talent but what about making something like this with it?
http://www.langantiques.com/category/120/4/item/120-91-3/
or this one:
http://www.langantiques.com/victorian-period/mid-victorian/
or this one Bobby, opal looks so good with black jet:)
http://www.morninggloryjewelry.com/images/copied/imagesLZ/Victorian/vict29426.jpg
I am merely planting seeds in your fertile imagination Bob. My motive is to see something beautiful:)
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bobby1
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« Reply #18 on: January 07, 2010, 11:52:42 pm »

Sara,
Those are some really spectacular pieces. My second favorite jewelry style is Victorian with their significant attention to detail. My mostess favorite is Art Noveau with the natural flowing lines and often use of Opal.  I'll have to mull all of these choices over. How long do I have? Can I keep up my torrid pace on this Opal rough or do I get to  slow down a bit and think it over?
Bob
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« Reply #19 on: January 08, 2010, 06:46:28 am »

I know what you are capable of and it was me that wanted you to hurry up. LOL
I tried to find an art deco piece with opal and jet too but I couldnt find one. I will leave the final choice up to you. I know you wont disappoint us:) LOL
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LapidaryCanary1
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« Reply #20 on: September 22, 2010, 06:35:08 am »

This was both enlightening and very useful!

Thank you all very much for all these useful hints and tips!

Although there were a few that actually came close to the solution, it was never really touched on and this I learned from a person who has been in the lapidary world going on or about {better said} 35 years. I have used his method which he said was not only logical but when you think about it just made too much sense.

My spouse and I are fairly new at lapidary and yet, every time we have cabbed a piece\stone we used the same dowel's with the same wax on several cabochons that we have worked on and so far it has worked every time, never mattered whether the weather was humidly hot, rainy or otherwise and if done right will wield a secure hold.

First after you have already ground the piece to where you are sure you can no longer comfortably hold the piece\stone any more take your rubbing alcohol, {we use isopropyl 50% by volume} and thoroughly clean the area that is going to be joined, with the alcohol {this takes off all the oils that you deposited while grinding} and set the piece\stone on the side.

After the alcohol has done its thing and evaporated, get the piece\stone and whisk it over an open flame a few times to warm it up {a Bic lighter should do the trick}, get the dowel\stick and either apply the wax or adhesive you work with.

{WARNING--- DO NOT WHISK PIECE\STONE OVER OPEN FLAME WHILE THE ALCOHOL IS STILL WET ON PIECE\STONE! MAKE SURE IT IS COMPLETELY DRY BEFORE PROCEEDING, MAKE SURE THERE ARE NO FLAMMABLES NEAR ANY OPEN FLAME OR BEFORE STRIKING ANY FLINT THAT WOULD CAUSE A FLAMED ACTION\REACTION! ALWAYS KEEP ALL FLAMMABLE LIQUIDS AT A SAFE DISTANCE FROM ANY OPEN FLAME! ENCLOSED VEHICLES\LAMPS EXCLUDED.} This can never be stressed enough!

In using wax I like to get the wax to an almost runny state before applying it to the piece, after pressing it firmly into position.

{With a scribe or small dowel that is only used for this purpose} gently but firmly hold the top of the piece\stone with the index finger and the dowel firmly in hand, first make sure that the piece\stone is perpendicular\squared to the piece\stone {or the piece\stone is as flat and level to the dowel as can possibly be}

Gently butter the wax from the dowel to the piece\stone in an curved upward motion. {If this is a large dowel and piece combination} I put it upside down on a folded cloth which has just been rung out very well from being soaked in hot water, helps keep the large piece\stone warm while buttering.

Let stand upside down until both the piece\stone and wax have cooled and set up or if you have {little patience left by this time} run it under near room temperature water, {almost cool} to the touch.

Hope this long winded message helped!


AC
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Taogem
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« Reply #21 on: September 22, 2010, 09:33:55 pm »

Welcome aboard AC..

Thanks for this !
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gregorgr8
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« Reply #22 on: September 23, 2010, 12:12:12 am »

what they all said plus at the last second I like to supermelt the wax on the dop stick in the flame of an alcohol lamp and then it is very sticky and sticks quite well.
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Stay healthy in 2011.  .  .  . and don't forget to eat some dark chocolate!

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« Reply #23 on: January 28, 2011, 12:33:52 pm »

Hi Everyone,

I just got in this thread today so I'm going to explain how I dope my stones. A lot of what ya'll do I do the same, here are some differences.

One has asked how do you get the stones off the sticks? When I am at that junction I go to my alcohol lamp and holding the stone over the flame till it gets a little more than warm. Holding the dope stick tightly in one hand I grasp the od/stone and twist it, if you're right handed & holding stick in right hand turn stone c'clockwise with left hand, otherwise a left handed person will turn it clockwise. Why these directions, it's a natural motion. If the wax doesn't let go keep warming it up and trying till it does.
Some people hold stick in both hands and push on stone with thumbs. Do not push stone with thumbs if you are holding the stick with both hands using the stick as a fulcrum. The stone can sometimes break if the wax is not soft enough.
I can get the wax to let loose and all I have to do for the next stone is to reheat the wax and repeat the mounting process.

Over time the wax will crack away from the stick, I use wood dowels, so one will have to start all over. I generally remelt my old wax and reuse it.

Also I have a piece of sheet metal 1/16" thick by 6" by 24" which I dope over. When I first start warming the wax on the stick I get it real soft but not dripping. I have the metal at the edge of my cabinet top. Holding the soft wax and stick somewhere aroung a 30/45 degree angle, stick end towards the floor, just roll the stick along the metal edge to get a sort of cone shape to the wax. Holding the stick vertical, with wax end down, blot the wax on the metal plate. Doing this will give you a flat surface which is perpendicular to the stick, continue on to dope the stone.

I don't have any photos for now but if someone wants any I'll get the wife to help me take some.

Don
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LapidaryCanary1
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« Reply #24 on: January 31, 2011, 05:30:17 pm »

Wheeeeeeeeeeeeew WOW now im dizzzzzzzzzeeeeee  yippie, {Giggling uncontrollably}  darned it, almost got high reading how you "dope stones and sticks" lol! So Don, just how stoned do those stones & sticks get after ya "dope" them up ura {giggles?}

I just had a great laugh, yippie I know it had to be typo's but had to say that I got a good laugh outta your posting!

Besides that it was a great post and thank you for the info!!!!



Sincerely,



LC1

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mirkaba
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« Reply #25 on: January 31, 2011, 06:23:51 pm »

Hi Don.......Have you ever tried sticking your dopped cabs in the freezer. In an hour or so they usually just fall off the sticks or pop off with small pressure. I usually leave 5 or 6 dop sticks in my tuna can wax melter all the time. If I take some out I replace them.  As the dop wax heats so do the sticks that are immersed in it. Just drip/twist off any excess and stick it on the heated cab. There is always wax on the sticks whether they are in the pot or cold in storage.
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Bob

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39don
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« Reply #26 on: January 31, 2011, 08:48:51 pm »

Wheeeeeeeeeeeeew WOW now im dizzzzzzzzzeeeeee  yippie, {Giggling uncontrollably}  darned it, almost got high reading how you "dope stones and sticks" lol! So Don, just how stoned do those stones & sticks get after ya "dope" them up ura {giggles?}

I just had a great laugh, yippie I know it had to be typo's but had to say that I got a good laugh outta your posting!

Besides that it was a great post and thank you for the info!!!!



Sincerely,



LC1



If you are here to make fun or spelling corrections at the expense of others then you are at the wrong forum.
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Rockoteer
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« Reply #27 on: January 31, 2011, 09:15:51 pm »


Bob, you say you leave 4 or 5 in you melter all the time...you don't keep the was hot all the time do you?  I have yet to use dop wax and stix but I need to get started.

tks
TOG
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Whether you think you can, or you think you can't, you're probably right.
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« Reply #28 on: February 01, 2011, 12:40:26 am »

Hey Gary...........I only turn it on when I need it. The wax and sticks heat up together. My heater is a bean pot plate from Goodwill with a large tuna can for the wax. Works great. I keep a bag full of dop sticks with the wax from the previous cabs still on them. The wax gets recycled. I really did a number on my fingers before I got dop wax. bricks
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Bob

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« Reply #29 on: February 01, 2011, 07:44:26 pm »


Bob, I did also on the only cab I have tried.   Didn't realize it until it was too late.  I have a hot plate made for dop was so I will grab the next tuna can and try your idea.

tks    ura

TOG
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