google reader yahoo reader newsgater feed aol reader Subscribe in a Reader

Be Sure To Get To Know This Member And Visit Their Site !!




Photobucket

General information about the Site

A community forum for lapidaries of every imaginable gemstone related niche to gather. Sharing a great many topics. Generally beginning with discoveries of various minerals, cutting, shaping and finishing cabochons right on up to and including the designing of jewelry and other gemstone related artwork.

Photobucket

Donations keep the forum free from advertisements and purchases photo hosting MB space.

Steve Won our March Jewelry Contest with an intricate 6-layer overlay scarab with two carnelian cabs in a pendant!

 photo ScarabwithCarnelianPendant_zps2f987e2e.jpg

39Don(don) Won our April 15-30 Cab Contest with this Pancawarna!!

 photo DSC04979_zps85540a12.jpg

Mineral Image Database

Info, Photos, Rocks and Minerals

Identification of Minerals

Glossary of Rock & Mineral Terms


Helios Red Helios Green Helios Blue Helios Purple
Lapidary / Gemstone Community Forum
May 23, 2013, 12:05:32 am
Welcome, Guest. Please login or register.

Login with username, password and session length
News: Welcome ! Be sure to register, say hello, participate regularly, and spread the word !
 
  Home Help Search Classifieds Gallery Links Classified / Auctions Staff List Login Register  

Are sintered wheels all that?

Pages: 1 [2]  All   Go Down
  Print  
Author Topic: Are sintered wheels all that?  (Read 402 times)
0 Members and 2 Guests are viewing this topic.
Rockoteer
Hero Member
*****
Offline Offline

Gender: Male
Posts: 2948



View Profile
« Reply #15 on: June 08, 2012, 06:50:38 pm »

Update...

I spoke with Dan over at Covington. He was very
I'm still unsure about the sintered wheel, 350 is a wad of cash, and I'm unsure how it will behave with my material.

What material are you using?
Read REDDRUM's post above.  He puts them to the test .....

TOG
Report Spam   Logged

-Gary

Of all the things I've lost..I miss my mind the most.

Whether you think you can, or you think you can't, you're probably right.
lithicbeads
Hero Member
*****
Online Online

Posts: 1909


View Profile
« Reply #16 on: June 09, 2012, 08:28:21 am »

Hi, I would like some advice on how to go about choosing  the correct coarseness in a sintered  wheel. I would like to know  a bit about how coarse one can go without having major chipping of the girdle of fairly brittle stones such as  porcelain jaspers . I have quite worn out hands and I need to remove lots of rough in my bead shaping  so pushing hard on the wheel is not a very good solution for me.I get the impression that an 80 grit inland sintered in not quite as aggressive as a standard  100 grit wheel . Is the 60 grit sintered as aggressive  as a standard 100 grit wheel ?  Has anyone used a 30 grit sintered and have you found it useful for a variety of stones?  I use stacked tile saw blades to cut very aggressively so that I don't have to push hard but I would like to consider alternatives. thanks.
Report Spam   Logged

Michael S Hoover - Redrummd
Hero Member
*****
Online Online

Gender: Male
Posts: 1129


Art In Stone


View Profile WWW
« Reply #17 on: June 09, 2012, 09:43:23 am »

I use a 60 grit for the fast removal and it does cause tiny "knappers" chips on porcelain stone and if there are any hidden flaws in the stone the harmonics from this grit will often cause a failure in the fault.  I don't mind that so much as I would prefer the scales break at the start of shaping rather than show up when I am polishing the scale after 8 hours of work on the knife.....

So, I use the 60 to get close to what I want and then move to the 100 grit which cuts a lot slower but does not chip.  

To further complicate this for everyone I have found that the green diamond dot 100 grit flat laps by Eastwind cut exceptionally fast and last a long time.  In fact you can use dressing sticks on them as the dots are fairly deep.  

In fact I have moved away from the grinding wheels to the 12 inch flat lap for doing the rough shaping for all but really thick pieces I need to remove a couple of MM off in which case I use the 60 grit sintered.

I still use the 100 and 200 grit sintered wheels for the final fitting of the scales so all still are being used.  

I just like to spend as little time as possible on the rough shaping so I thought I would mention the 12 inch flat lap for those who may already have one in their shops.  
« Last Edit: June 09, 2012, 09:23:53 pm by Michael S Hoover - Redrummd » Report Spam   Logged

Rockoteer
Hero Member
*****
Offline Offline

Gender: Male
Posts: 2948



View Profile
« Reply #18 on: June 09, 2012, 10:09:02 am »


I am currently using SC 100 8" stone for my roughing in, but, if I don't keep it dressed it will do the 'knapping' thing also.  I have to be real carefull but I can usually rough in a set of scales before it needs dressing.  Of course it doesn't take long to dress either.

TOG
Report Spam   Logged

-Gary

Of all the things I've lost..I miss my mind the most.

Whether you think you can, or you think you can't, you're probably right.
lithicbeads
Hero Member
*****
Online Online

Posts: 1909


View Profile
« Reply #19 on: June 09, 2012, 02:58:49 pm »

  thanks. I agree wholeheartedly about being fortunate if the hidden flaws fail early in the shaping process. Interesting advice all around , thanks.
Report Spam   Logged

Pages: 1 [2]  All   Go Up
  Print  
 
Jump to:  

Powered by EzPortal

Bookmark this site! | Upgrade This Forum
SMF For Free - Create your own Forum | Buy traffic for your forum/website

Powered by SMF | SMF © 2013, Simple Machines