Entries for the first jewelry contest (Mar. 19- Apr. 7)

[3rdRockFromTheFun]

Wow what amazing variety and craftsmanship. All are worthy in their own way. Glad a knife showed up. Where is Pete with his magical creations of light?

Michael pure perfection as always, love your work. One day I may even produce something approaching it. I am interested in your pins, how do you dertimne which are crtical, ie: hold the knife together and those just for looks or to hold the scales on. Does pleining secure the critical pins sufficiently?

David

I was wondering the same thing - Pete is one of my BIG 3 inspirations around here - people who's work I log in sometimes just hoping to see more of.

[Enchantra]

You're not dropping hints are you??   

I'm an eternal flirt but you just popped the idea in my head of dating a woman who likes rocks... oooh, *sizzle* NIRVANA! (...can I see your rocks on a first date?) 

You can see my rocks and my pebbles...
Wait that didn't sound right at all....   

I can flirt too Frank.  I've honed the skill over the years.   

[Michael S Hoover - Redrummd]

The pins that go through the rocker arms on lockbacks and any going through the back springs need cupping and then peining as they are the ones holding the knife together.  The scale pins just hold the scales in place and just go through the liners (sides).  Peined pins actually are what hold nearly all pocket knives together other than those designed for disassembly.  Once the stone scales are attached they stiffen the entire frame of the knife and it actually becomes more solid than a factory knife with pinned scales.  

In fact, one problem you need to learn to deal with when working with stone scales on a knife is how they can affect the "snap" of the blades when the knife is closed.  The liners and scales on factory knives "give" a bit in closing a knife as compared to the whole knife becoming solid after stone scales are attached.  So, thin warding files sometimes need to be used in the knife well to take down any high spots on the liners and the front pivot pin needs to be checked and sometimes adjusted before you get to the point of polishing the metal to avoid having a "ring" around the pin caused by the adjustment of the tightness.  

I also use .002 steel shimming stock to clean out polishing rouge left between the liners and springs at the factory on a lot of the knives that display too much drag that affects the snap.

In addition I use a scotchbrite wheel to buff the area of the blade behind the sharpened blade edge (the ricasso) to remove the circles caused by rubbing against the liners or even a second blade on tight knives as that too will reduce the drag as well as clear off any "gunk" such as ahdesive from the adhesion of the scales, excess rouge that has fouled the slight layer of pivot pin oil ect.  These scothcbrite wheels also can be used to ever so slightly radius the bottom of the blade ricasso and the tops of the liners to cut down drag.  I do the top of the liners just before the 600 grit sanding and the buffing of the ricasso if needed, just before polishing the bolsters and, liner edges and spine.

[3rdRockFromTheFun]

You're not dropping hints are you??   

I'm an eternal flirt but you just popped the idea in my head of dating a woman who likes rocks... oooh, *sizzle* NIRVANA! (...can I see your rocks on a first date?) 

You can see my rocks and my pebbles...
Wait that didn't sound right at all....   

I can flirt too Frank.  I've honed the skill over the years.   

Yes and you're quite good at it - and I quite like it (i'm just waiting for somebody to tell us to get a room, lol...) *mwa!*

[39don]

Frank go get a room .........HURRY!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

[Enchantra]

 

[39don]

                              

[3rdRockFromTheFun]

 

[dickb]

NEW MATH......

1 + 1 = 3

Sorry for the hijack.   

Dickb

[Enchantra]

So just when are we going to have voting for this up and running now that the contest is closed???

[southerly]

The pins that go through the rocker arms on lockbacks and any going through the back springs need cupping and then peining as they are the ones holding the knife together.  The scale pins just hold the scales in place and just go through the liners (sides).  Peined pins actually are what hold nearly all pocket knives together other than those designed for disassembly.  Once the stone scales are attached they stiffen the entire frame of the knife and it actually becomes more solid than a factory knife with pinned scales.  

In fact, one problem you need to learn to deal with when working with stone scales on a knife is how they can affect the "snap" of the blades when the knife is closed.  The liners and scales on factory knives "give" a bit in closing a knife as compared to the whole knife becoming solid after stone scales are attached.  So, thin warding files sometimes need to be used in the knife well to take down any high spots on the liners and the front pivot pin needs to be checked and sometimes adjusted before you get to the point of polishing the metal to avoid having a "ring" around the pin caused by the adjustment of the tightness.  

I also use .002 steel shimming stock to clean out polishing rouge left between the liners and springs at the factory on a lot of the knives that display too much drag that affects the snap.

In addition I use a scotchbrite wheel to buff the area of the blade behind the sharpened blade edge (the ricasso) to remove the circles caused by rubbing against the liners or even a second blade on tight knives as that too will reduce the drag as well as clear off any "gunk" such as ahdesive from the adhesion of the scales, excess rouge that has fouled the slight layer of pivot pin oil ect.  These scothcbrite wheels also can be used to ever so slightly radius the bottom of the blade ricasso and the tops of the liners to cut down drag.  I do the top of the liners just before the 600 grit sanding and the buffing of the ricasso if needed, just before polishing the bolsters and, liner edges and spine.

Thanks Mike,
I had an issue with a Swiss Army Executive where the blades did not close cleanly after adding the stone scales, I though I had got some adhesive in the scale but could not find any. It could also be the stiffening up of the knife, the liners on the SAK's are not flat once the plastic scales are removed, glueing the stone scales on true's the liners up, but that may not be a positive outcome.
David

[NuevoMundo]

So just when are we going to have voting for this up and running now that the contest is closed???

I've been out of town for the holiday weekend and then some. The poll is up now, thanks for your patience everyone!